We'll we're back, 2 weeks seemed so much longer, I think Bali does that to you; you're going lightspeed down here in Australia and the momentum of that life slows right down, which is superb because you really want to have a relaxing holiday and Bali is perfect for that.
This was my second time in Bali, my partner's 4th. It was far easier and more relaxing this time, was it because 2 years has passed and life has changed in Bali? May be. Or is it that I, coming back a second time are seasoned and used to the ways of Bali? Probably. Like anything new, you can be a little overwhelmed and I was the first time, even though I've been to other SE Asian places, Bali is its own place.
Flight there was fab left at 10.55 Melbourne got there not soon enough but flight as always with food was superb. Very good airline and the seats are more spacious than Jetstar. Getting into Bali took so little time, I think from memory last time this flight doesn't have to wait much as there were no big flights coming in around the same time. I had thought of the VIP VOA but decided against and I think I would have wasted money big time with this trip as no one checked anything, straight through and out to our driver Puja from Bali Discovery who was fabulous (thanks Louise & Geoff); he had this semi Aussie accent from osmosis I think as he's never been here and a great sense of humour.
Observations were that Bali is quieter, less tourists (though more were coming as the time wore on, I'm sure Dec-Jan is busier), traders less full on, weather was perfect: overcast and rainy for the first 5 days in Ubud and then Legian (later) which kept it less intense heat though more humid and then for the last 10 days overcast, some rain and then lots of sunshine the last 3 days, which was divine. Too hot for me to walk during the middle of the day but got out early or later in the afternoon, perfect!
Hotels: Ubud - Cendana Resort right on Monkey Forest Road (half way down). Lovely place to stay. Ideal position, right in the thick of it so you could head out and walk to anywhere pretty much within 5-10 minutes. Its entrance is where Lamak Restaurant is (didn't go there, so quiet, no one eating there at all!)
Room (deluxe pool room) was at the back of the hotel, overlooking this beautiful seawater pool that looked out onto a rice paddy. We adored it. We were some of the few people staying. Breakfast average so we went out (see later). Room large and spacious with great bathroom that overlooked field behind (loved watching the cattle eating and working and the guy who owned them!). Small TV, minibar, great big four poster bed with mozzie net though you didn't need it. Lovely gardens, great staff, beautiful talking mynah bird (related to, but not the same as the rats-with-wings here, black and yellow and gorgeous) that whistled as you walked close and spoke English and Indo!
Cost for 3 nights: 3 million rupiah which sounds alot but it is a perfectly placed hotel and charged us $US92 a night (hate that thing where they charge US$ in many places in Bali, grrrr). It was worth it. We had originally planned to stay at UVH but with the renos we decided we wanted somewhere that didn't have that sort of action. We could see some work out the front of the UVH, it looked lovely but we were very happy with this hotel and would stay again.
Breakfast: Tutmak in Jl Dewi Sita which is off MF Road at the top of the football field. Great pozzie, fab food - breakfast for 2 and 3 drinks 151,000 rp (includes 15% tax/service). At there a few times. Lovely staff and fun watching the kids on the football field doing exercises, etc. We ate there a few times.
Note: don't remember all these taxes and services last time, is this a new thing? It does add to the cost and its something you don't think about at first but it all adds up.
Didn't really buy much in Ubud, not sure why, probably getting a feel for the place and because it is different to the coast where there are hundreds of stalls, shops, markets, Ubud has a smaller more intimate vibe, more closed-in shops, more expensive in many ways and less choice of what you can buy (my perception). This does not diminish the place at all, in fact it is wonderful because it is so different.
Checked out the market, Jl Raya Ubud, Hanoman, all of Monkey Forest and the highlight I would have to say was visiting Mozaic (see my report earlier). Incredible and amazing. Cost for that (looking at my receipt now) was 2,100,000 rp and that included two tasting menus of 550,000 rp each (one Indonesian the other International) and a pairing wine menu of 450,000 rp for one. Credit card says AU$280 and it was worth every penny. The ambience of the place was incredible, so beautiful inside, great music (fantastic woman singer as we were leaving was out of this world with her voice!) and the food and wine were stupendous. Yeah I know I'm waxing lyrical again....do yourself a favour if you really love good food.
Other lovelies we visited: Cinta Grill on more than one occasion, fave place average meal with drinks 200,000 rp approx, loved it there, on Monkey Forest Road; Cafe Lotus lovely outlook and seating but the staff less than excited to see us, food was lovely but nothing spectacular 204,000 rp for entree, 2 mains, drinks (included 15% tax/service); Cafe Moka 55,000 rp for snacks and drinks (incl 10%) absolutely loved this little place here and in Seminyak. Cool little western cafe that had yummy food and drink.
Internet we went to Bali Highway on Jl Raya Ubud past Hanoman. Very cool and relaxing much like Bali Cyber in Legian. I think about 24,000 for an hour.
Changing money/ATMs were never an issue. Obviously had read up on the forum about issues but really if you change money and there's a shifty going on you see it because you're aware. One guy ‘forgot' to give me the 40,000 and I just took it and laughed. I think he'd hoped I'd forgotten. CBA ATMs were where I tended to take money out even though you could only get US$100 max but you didn't get slugged hugely as you did at other ATMs. Thing is, if you got 3 million from another one, even though you're slugged higher you're getting more money out, its probably an even bet!
Went to Venezia Spa at the bottom of MFRoad. Did the pick up and had an hour massage for 80,000 rp. Fabulous and divine setting which to me really makes a difference. Drink and fruit when you left. Extra special place, would definitely go back there. Can't believe first trip we only did 2 massages/treatments, unbelievable how stupid we were, anyways different story this time.
Next instalment on the rest of the trip this week.
Any questions, please ask!
Lise :^)