Below is my long, hopefully not too boring JBR, but hopefully it will help someone out, as I have gathered much useful information from Bali forums.
My husband and I had an 11 night holiday in Bali in mid May 2011. Flew jet*, *class on the way there and economy on the way home to Sydney. All fine except flight was cancelled on the way home but after a two hour wait we got on the Virgin flight to Brisbane and then Qantas to Sydney - only first 100 in the queue got on this flight, the rest had to stay the night in Bali. All worked out ok but it was a bit of a debacle at Denpasar Airport and no one knew what was going on.
Accommodation
Ulin Villas (7 nights)
We stayed at Ulin Villas in Seminyak for 7 nights; we were booked in to a 1 bedroom villa but were upgraded to a 2 bedroom on arrival. I was a bit worried about this as the 2 bedroom had an open air lounge room and mozzies love me - but the staff did so much with coils and plug ins that I didn't get a bite. Anyway, it would have been hard to give up the 2 bedroom as the pool was so big. This was our first stay in a villa so we don't have much basis for comparison - but we did check out one other place and although it was nice it was very white which I didn't think suited the climate and would probably get very hot. Our villa had lots of plants and a real Bali feel with the colours and décor. The 1 bedroom didn't have the same open feel but I am sure we would have been happy there too.
Pros: spacious, nicely decorated and well maintained villa; very friendly and helpful staff; awesome location (for restaurants and shops - beach is a 10 minute walk away but who cares with that pool!); good variety at breakfast; in villa bar-b-que was amazing - so much food; very clean; excellent mozzie protection; lovely spa area with good variety of treatments; free bicycles to use and transport drop off provided which was very handy; candles lit around the pool each night - very romantic
Cons: sofa in lounge room would be good if it had arms - for maximum lounging potential; cocktails delivered to the room (not sure any villas do this but it was the one thing I missed not staying in a hotel)
This is the first time we have stayed in Seminyak, usually stay around Double Six, but we really liked it up here and would stay here again. The food choices are more expensive in general but it was a lot more peaceful without being boring and the cab trips down south were very cheap - usually less than $2.
Tegal Sari (4 nights)
2nd part of the trip we got picked up and stayed 4 nights at Tegal Sari in Ubud. Had our usual Super Deluxe room 22 upstairs, which was lovely as usual. It's not quite the bargain it was as breakfast is now not included but it was cheap to order in anyway. We would have liked free wifi in the room, we got used to this at Ulin and missed it up here. There is wifi but only at the restaurant/reception area and it's only free it you have a drink or meal. This is our third stay at Tegal Sari and not sure we would stay again, probably just ready for a change and also they are building 6 new rooms so I think the already busy pool will be a bit of a nightmare.
Spent our days having treatments, eating and browsing the shops, we also did a couple of day trips.
Day Spas - Legian/Seminyak
Bali Mandira - I had the Tropical Glow and Pedicure, hubby had the man's facial and four hand massage, the treatments were not cheap but were very professional and results driven. I don't really like flower baths (or baths at all really) so I liked that they had treatments with a shower instead of bath (I seem to want to get out as soon as I've got in and I would rather have something done to me than just sit in tepid water). Highly recommended
Spa Bali - new spa owned by same people as Melasti Spa, same awesome treatments at great prices. All enclosed, which I like as any open air places look nice until 4pm when the mozzies come out to eat me. Hubby had hot stone massage and I had a cream bath and ultimate foot bath - fantastic as usual. Highly recommended
Ulin Villas - very nice spa, not a huge range of treatments but we enjoyed what we had - the wine and cocoa splendour. Was good value with our discount with our villa package (40% off). Recommended
Bodyworks - very busy spa, make sure you book the day before. Was a lovely spa but open air so mozzie magnets go early in the day. Lots of different treatments offered. Hubby had a massage and I had a cream bath and foot massage. Good prices and professional treatment. Recommended
Ubud
Sehati Spa (back of Tegal Sari) - We both had a half hour leg/feet massage (120k for both), very basic place but good massage (bit strong for hubby, but my lady was ok). Great for the price, probably wouldn't have other treatments as the surrounds weren't too flash but would go again for massage. Recommended
Tegal Sari (poolside massage) - we both had a lovely massage by the pool, cheap (85k each) and very good. Highly recommended
Maya Ubud - we both had the riverside special package for $130us each which was a massage, scrub, flower bath and facial. The surrounding were very nice but not sure why everyone thinks that is so good as you have your eyes closed for most of the treatment - are we missing something? The flower bath was 20 minutes, this was way too long, we both turned into prunes, if you are not going to ‘you know what' in the bath, then what do you do for 20 minutes???? The facial had a very claustrophobic mask and they left us while it was on and it was not a nice sensation. So treatments were good but didn't live up to the hype. We decided to make a day of it and so had advised the spa that we would stay for lunch (Riverside Café) and they said that as we were having lunch and a spa treatment, that we could use the pool. Pity they forgot to tell the Pool Boy who was very rude to us and made us feel extremely unwelcome. If that wasn't bad enough we got back to Tegal Sari (they had to pick us up, even though you pay top dollar Maya don't include transfers) and I spent the next four hours on the toilet bringing up all my lunch (it did taste good on the way in but not on the way out). Not recommended
Restaurants
Chandi - thanks forumites for this tip, really great food and fun atmosphere. Good quality cocktails - mid range prices. (2 x waters, 1 x mojito, 1 x bintang, 2 x entrees, 2 x mains, 1 x dessert - 853k)
Potato Head - 1 x wrap, 1 x burger, 1 x cocktail, 1 x Bintang - 430k.
Looked really nice and had an amazing view - unfortunately as there is a pool this was ruined by big hairy beer guts - if you are on a diet go there to be turned off your food - actually the food was mediocre anyway so just go for a drink.
Delicious Onion - yum yum - had the set lunch, very good value and super tasty. Would go back here.
Rumours - sorry can't find receipts. Good service, cheap cocktails but didn't taste like there was any alcohol in them. Tasty food and good prices.
Mozzarella (not the one by the sea) - Very professional service, we were surprised for the price. Would definitely go back here. 1 x cocktail, 1 x garlic bread, 2 x mains 244k
Ku De Ta - had the best breakfast here (even better than La Lucciola IMO). Will try lunch here next time I think. 1 x coffee, 1 x tea, 1 x oj, 1 x mixed juice, 1 x corn fritters, 1 x rancheros - 357k. All the food was so good and a bit different from the usual
La Lucciola - for breakfast, can't beat the view and we only sat downstairs, will sit upstairs and go for dinner next time. 1 x coffee, 1 x tea, 4 x granita, 1 x Panini, 1 x omelette - 370k
Broadwalk (BGH) - very fast to take our order, very slow for food to arrival. Hubby loved his pasta, much ohhing and ahhing, my burger was ok. 2 x bintangs, 1 x mojito, 1 x pasta, 1 x burger 210k
Warisan - very good for a special treat. The service was great and we both enjoyed our food. 2 x entrees, 2 x mains, 1 x dessert, 2 x water, 2 x teas, 3 x daiquiri - 1072k
Breeze at Samaya - has gone downhill since last time we visited, the service was no where near as polished. It was still nice but not the ‘wow' that it was last time. Not sure if we would go back. 3 x glasses of wine, 2 x entrees, 2 x mains, 2 x ice cream/sorbet - 1603k
SOS Rooftop bar (Ananatara) for sunset cocktails only - what a view and cocktail prices were quite good considering it is all top shelf and you get some free nibbles.
Ubud
Café Angsa - cheapie in Ubud but really good food. 1 x lemon juice, 1 x bintang, 1 x lumpia, 2 x mains 163k
Jazz Café - had a really fun night here listening to funky fusion, ok the food is not the best but it's pretty good and the atmosphere is great. We would definitely go back here. (note happy hour pricing for drinks before 8pm) 5 x cocktails, 2 x red wine, 1 x 4 set tapas, 1 x pizza 942k
Maya Riverside - 1 x smoothie, 1 x Heineken, 2 x main 529k, all tasted amazing, spent the next four on the toilet bringing it all back up, so would not pay a return visit.
Taco Grill -Hubby ate from here twice (I was sick for one night - see Maya). This food is so fresh and tasty, and service is fast. Sangria is fantastic, looking forward to going back here. Cheap too!
Mosaic 4,000,000 2 x discovery menu, 2 x cocktails, 2 x premium wine matching. Very good service but probably not as good as you would expect at these prices. If we were paying this in Sydney we would be expecting a lot and unfortunately for us it just didn't deliver. We really enjoyed the food but to be honest we enjoyed our food at Tropical Bale just as much; so it was a good experience but we wouldn't go back. Also décor in the bar was a bit tacky - looked like everything was purchased from Target. I wouldn't mention it but since I paid $440aus for my meal I think I can be picky.
Tropical Bale - this is our favourite Ubud restaurant, it was good to see a few more people there and again had a fantastic meal at a great price. 2 x bintang, 1 x cocktail, 1 x wine, 2 x entrees, 2 x mains, 1 x dessert + comp sorbet and bread - 540K
Activities
Waka Land Cruise - I give my special rating of ‘crap'. Pretty much a waste of time and money IMHO. You drive a long way to see a quarry (mildly interesting), then a family compound which looked like a bit of a set up and you didn't really get shown around except to see the kitchen and western toilet - but you did get the chance to buy souvenirs, then we saw some lovely terraced rice paddies, then lunch at a dark, gloomy wet place on stilts - it was sort of rustic in a bad way - the free wine was undrinkable. Then it was a long drive back (stopping at a hot spring where locals wash - felt like we should not be there), so you just didn't really feel like you had seen much for the amount of driving. I would not recommend this trip. (P.S booked through Bali Discovery Tours so luckily got a bit of a discount)
Sobek White Water Rafting
We did the rafting trip on the Telaga Waja as I had previously done the Agung and thought it was a bit tame/boring so wanted to try something else. We were picked up right on time at 8.30am and as we were the only ones coming from Ubud, we had the transfer vehicle to ourselves. We really enjoyed the trip, the company felt safe and the trip very well organised. It wasn't particularly scary but there were some exciting moments and the scenery is beautiful. The lunch at the end was very nice too. I would recommend this trip. (again booked through Bali Discovery Tours so got a good discount)
Waterbom
Had an amazing time, we love Waterbom and always enjoy ourselves. Hubby went on the new ride but didn't think it was that scary - I passed anyway. We rented a Cabana but didn't really need it, would not bother next time, great for more people but didn't need it for two
Shopping
Tommy's for 4 handbags, Ketut's for fixed price, Geneva and Biarritz for homewares and got lots of dresses from my favourite shop Puspita. Other than that just looked around but didn't buy much. Had to buy tiny beads (about 2mm) for my mum for making some crafty things, had to really hunt for these but luckily a jewellery shop man pointed us to Central Beads 102 JL Raya Kuta - if you like doing crafts you will love this place - I thought it was very scary! The beads were about 1/10 the price of Australia apparently. They have 3 shops selling all sorts of items, they also have a website.
Thanks for reading if you are not asleep yet.