PEMUTERAN & SUMBERKIMA
Off to friend's village in Sumberkima (near the airstrip) west of Pemuteran.
No accommodation booked as we planned to check it out on arrival.
One hour out of Kuta, lost clutch, water blew & smoke/steam coming from the engine.
Friend & Rachel pushed car off to side of the road. I steer trying to avoid the ditch on the left & then all proceed to inspect the damage.
Rachel & I gave a lesson in Mechanics 101 from our scant knowledge.
eg..err this is a dipstick. Hmm no oil.
This is where you add the oil if so inclined.
This is the radiator. Hmmm no water.
This is where you add water when the smoke & steam has subsided.
Yes this is smoke & that is a burning smell coming from the engine.
What do I think is the problem?...umm I think the engine blew up & we are ferked?
Friend off running down the street to get a tow rope & enlist the help of a local bemo driver to tow us to nearest garage.
We hop in the bemo and friend follows behind. Nearly made it to garage but tow rope snaps as we turn into entrance & friend stuck in the middle of the road waiting to be be pushed. I decline & get mechanics to do it.
Wait 2 hours while guy who hired car out arrives from Kuta, mechanics pronounce car dead & wait for a replacement to arrive.
Arrive in Pemuteran after being forced off the road by a tour bus driven by a madman (we had 2 inches between us and it with the horn blasting nonstop)
I spent most of the trip with eyes closed & holding on for my life.
We did go through Bedugul, Singaraja, stopped at Seririt for friend to sell some gold, through Lovina & then into Pemuteran (opened my eyes as we slowed down )
Accommodation was at a peak in Pemuteran with established hotels having the monopoly and able to charge what they want.
No homestays except the one we stayed at. Hopefully more will spring up.
Was not really impressed with either the Pondok Sari or Taman Sari Bali in relation to rooms, size, price & friendliness.
Went down the beach (high tide in the morning) for a swim.
Sand black (a bit yuk) with grassed bits up to the edge.
The cousins, bros and sisses all came along too.
Was just great being looked at very closely as one revealed the bod in bathers & all its glory...eekkkk.
Tourists are not a common thing in Sumberkima
We then hired a friends boat to cruise around the area.
(Along came the family again) as we put putted around the coast of Sumberkima & near Menjangan Island.
Lots of huts on the water built around where they catch lobster. This is to guard/protect their catch so I was told.
Went to village to meet mum, and more cousins, sisters brothers etc.
They killed a few chooks for us for lunch which the BBQ'd on skewers whole but split down the middle.
They take these out of the bag, slit their throats & then chuck em in the dirt to die.
Then they are taken to the 'kitchen'
Sister also made spicy chicken leg/wing thingies served with rice.
Was THE best food.
Used the delightful Mandi which was just a drain hole in the ground which you then sluice away the pee with the bucket of water (and your shoes too cos there's no way to avoid peeing on them as well)
Think there was a separate Mandi for number 2 cos I was asked if I was sh*tting or peeing...errr a pee thanks.
No-one speaks English but managed to talk to friend's brother who kept going on about having a mandi & having a sleep.
I was either looking very tired & stank or was receiving a more interesting offer?
He did show me how he drinks 20 eggs a day (mixed with sprite & salt) and how strong and full of energy he is (got the running & muscle demo)...yes yes it makes you strong but there is NO way I'm drinking it....more smiling & head shaking..
Sat around that night at homestay drinking arak with friend & his local mates, then visited family at village again.
Found out they had cooked more chooks for dinner as they were expecting us back..so had takeaway chicken back at the homestay before retiring.
Was a great time...very interesting.
Caused quite a stir in the village arriving at the local soccer game (were the only women there). Was an uncomfortable experience for all so didnt stay long.
Were welcomed into the family & village though & made to feel at ease. Initial reactions were to stare & giggle/smile at the strange tourists but this passed & the family acted naturally.
Were asked to stay at village & eat meals there but preferred to have our privacy & let them have theirs. I also preferred the luxury of a proper toilet & dry feet.
Ate lunch there and was the best meal we had on the holiday.
Pemuteran area was very dry & dusty, with black sand and cleaner bluer/greener water further out.
Also has prawn farms & fishing predominates.
Pemuteran is quiet & there is not much there. Having been there once I don't think I'd bother to go back. Enjoyed our stay there because of the village & family interaction. Not particularly taken with the beaches but scenery was good though the mountains looked very dry.
Photos:
http://www.geocities.com/mbalipic2/pemuteran.html
WATERFALLS
Visited 2 waterfalls.
Git Git & Sukawati
Git Git was probably better maintained than Sukawati waterfall (better access to the fall and less rubbish.)
More scenic with prolific vegetation, rice terraces,bamboo,valleys & low level cloud.
Many steps and a long walk to get there with stalls along the way but with level rests spots in between.
Rubbish bins also placed along the way & places for viewing/photos.
Was raining & quite cold so did not swim.
Access to the pool at the bottom over a few rocks but accessible.
5000rp to hire an umbrella & 3000rp entry.
Sukawati has steep steps (around 171) were ok going down but hard going coming back up.
Not signposted very well. Had to ask locals & nearly missed the turnoff.
Couldn't get right to the pool as steps etc had crumbled away & rocks were slippery.
Old bungee jumping tower over the falls. Brave to do that considering the rocks nearby etc.
Hassled more here by children selling fans who followed you all the way.
3000rp 'donation' for entry.
Rubbish (plastic bags, thongs etc) caught in the rocks detracted from both but still worth seeing.
Photos:
Git Git:
http://www.geocities.com/mbalipic3/waterfalls.html
Sukawati to be added soon