Well all pricing and arrangements were made through Ketut but now that he was so sick (chest infection) we had to plan B it. We contacted Steve at Bali Budaya Tours (mountain bikes) who matched the price we had and we were in business again.
The group not icluding me left at 2am as the goal of the early climb is to be there for sunrise. Now I always thought the climb was on Agung but it was Mt Batur. The drive in the dark was 2 hours and they all said had they been able to see what they were going to climb they wouldn't have. It was freezing by the way and none took jackets. After some hot drinks they were away.
There were little huts along the way where they could rest and shiver. When they reached the top it was worth it all. I have a very detailed 2 hour video of their adventure. They made the sunrise and it all looked sensational. For brekky the guides put eggs and bannanas in holes in the ground that are heat vents and that's the cooked breakfast.
There were many other guides up there taking goups and it all looked fabulous. There was so much laughing going on up there, particularly from Aria from Budaya that they decided they all had altitude sickness lol!! To celebrate a couple in our group who are kiwis did the Harka??? This had the guides all wheezing with laughter. Whilst I'm sorry I missed out - couldn't take the kids - it was good to be able to size it up from the comfort of a bean bag. Next time for me.
They did the crater walk after the summit and then back down. They were shown where the two German tourists died in 2000 when there was an eruption. The Germans went without a guide. Very Sad mistake. Those who did the climb said it was the absolute hilight of the trip. They were warmer on the way down.
Now after almost 3weeks of trying to get to the prison I was starting to panic. As Ketut was sick there went my transport and translater. Not even a taxi driver would accept my offers of big money to take me in. Anybody would drive me there but I needed someone to get me through with Indoneseain language.
Ketut turned up at the last gasp as he didn't want to let me down - bless his little coughing heart. We went to Bintang supermarket and stocked up on shampoo and toothepaste, toootbrush, a new towel, foods, medications, deodorants etc. then off to Kerabokan.
When we arrived and walked up to the front doors two guys told us we'd have to pay a bribe. Ketut thought they wanted it but as it happened they were just giving us a heads up. I knew about the bribing I just wasn't sure who gets it. Well we knocked on the door and they slid open one of those funnly little eye holes looked at us then slammed it closed. We waited but nothing. Again we knocked agian it happened. We had a little confab and decided to hold up a 20.000rp note and hope this was the way in. Yep it was.
On entering they asked me via Ketut who I was there to see and asked that I write his passport name on a piece of paper. With that done they took my bag and looked for my phone, then asked me to take my passport out as well. I knew I'd need my passsport there. Feels a litlle vulnerable to lose your phone and passport and know that there is no other recorded info on you in any type of register. Ketut lost his phone as well. Through a big jail gate and off to the counter where they search your bags of groceries. Friendly enough guys. The next guy or gatekeeper wanted a fruit bribe but we had none. When I said tidak to him he was soemwhat amused. Next he opened a door then gate then pushed us into the main prison yard. I think he was meant to walk us accross it but no fruit no escort. Ketut was nervous but to me they all looked no different to every other Balines who's just hanging around. Most of them smiled and said Hello. We were welking quickly though over about 100metres to the hall where we were be waved in. I handed across my tiny little piece of paper to a guy who showed me into the hall and told me to sit on a mat on the floor. There were about 200 people around the inside perimeter of this place and it was hard to tell the prisoners from the visitors. I worked out that if they were eating they were prisoners. Heaps of Westerners in there - far more than I expected to see. Man it was stinking hot in there. After about 15mins Ketut checked on the whereabouts of my friend as we were told we could only have 15mins. He soon arrived and got the shock of his life to see me. They don't even ask your name so he had no way of knowing who was visiting.
We visited for an hour and a half and no one seemed too concerned. I won't go into the details of my friends conviction let's just say that he lost everything as a result of the bombing and in desperation made some bad choices. His sentence is 2.5 years and he'll be out in March 2005. It was a time of laughter but quite a few tears and not all mine. I think it got the better of Ketut at least once. My friend is from Sumatra so has no realtives in Bali. His Mum is dead and his dad is 78 and to sick to come accross and visit. His sisters have never been as they believe you did the crime now do the time. This disgusted Ketut. This brought about some tears. Now if you don't have realtives visiting you don't get stuff brouhgt in like shampoo. He hadn't had shampoo since last December. I felt like Santa Claus and had never seen such gratitude in anyones face. Hopefully I got hime enough stuff to keep him going for several months. He told me alll about the court case, about other inmates and their sentences and yep The Bali bomber.
My friend works in the kitchen there so unlike the other regular prisoners he has access to Amrosi. He said that the first few times he had to take him his food he wouldn't even look at him but now speaks to him regulalry. This made me a bit uncomfortble at first but read on. He said that as a fellow muslim and a few in the kitchen are, they feel responsible to set him strait on what he's actully achieved. They've told him he's no martyr just a murderer, that he's destroyed the reputation of 220 million Indonesian Muslims who want no part of his evil and that he's been brain washed by renegade lunatics. He went on to say that Amrosi certainly hurt a lot of innocent tourists and their families but destroyed the livelihoods of everyone in Bali and for what. What did he achieve on any level that would honour Alah. Man this was quite a passionate outpouring. He said he no longer is the laughing bomber but a pathetic crier who prays all the time for forgiveness and peace on those he's wronged. I had to ask if he considered this man a friend. He said absolutley not.. He said that I asked for his opinion and he beleives the man realises that there is no honour in what he did and he is genuinely remorseful. I asked my friend what he would do if he was the judge today and could re-issue a sentence for him. He said that he had to be executed and Amrosi knows that as well as any muslim. So Man O Man that was more than I bargained for. This was a fascinating conversation, my head was swimming.
On leaving there were more tears, many thanks and a big hug. I'm hoping to get back later in the year and see him again but I didn't build up his hopes. Ketut went there lecturing me on knowing criminal people and left saying he was very sorry and this man has a beautiful soul and has just made a terrible mistake. This meant a lot to me as I was feeling increasingly guilty about taking Ketut there. There is just a real us and them mentality over there with regard to crime. You get nowhere near anyone in trouble if their not family as this may cast a negative light on you. He said it was the right thing for him to do and felt like it was good Kharma. He thanked God all the way home for his good life and family - we both did.
On leaving one guard approached me via Ketut and told me he was a good man and that it was sad that he hadn't had any family visit him. He was glad that I broght stuff in and thanked me. The next guard tried to intimidate me in English and demanded to know how much money I gave him. The first guard was standing behind him looking at me and shaking his head no. I said only food, but can I bring money next time. He just walked away. Keteut said he was praying and sweating and hoping I'd lie and say no. Of course I gave him money, all that hand holding wasn't about romance.
I'd just like to add that this man has been a friend of mine for 6 years and has never accepted or asked for money from me. After the bombing my husband and I offered to pay his rent for 6 months and he wouldn't accept it. He's lost his business and stock and didn't even have cutting scissors any more. This time I had to tell him that friends help each other and it's no reflection on him that I was giving him a lousy 100.000rp. Had I thought it safe to take more I would have given more. He's promised to pay it back - poor bugger.
My impression on the prison is that whilst it is very basic in security it has lovely grass and frangipani and hibiscus growing everywhere. How typically Balinese. They have a samll soccer field and I think it was a tennis court for other activities. They can use some weights also. The cells are apparently shocking, his has five in it, and judging by his weight loss the food is not too nourishing. Amrosi has no access to anything but his cell. Apaprently there are only even certain guards allowed to deal with him for his own safety. Don't get the wrong impression though - the place is a hell hole.
Bye for now - promise to finish tomorrow.
Nicno