First Timers Bali Report by Phanto, Halesy, Birdman & CD.
Flight Adelaide via Melbourne to Denpasar
Unless you fly by Garuda International direct from Adelaide you'll have to either go via Melbourne, Sydney or Darwin and endure the 10 hours plus flight time. We are all QANTAS Frequent Flyers and so naturally chose to fly QANTAS, this time via Melbourne. We left Adelaide at 8.00am Monday and arrived in Bali at about 4.30pm local time (6.00 CST) a little exhausted and a trifle annoyed. Why QANTAS can't fly direct from Adelaide beats me. We Adelaidians surely must be hard done by in this regard.
Our flights were uneventful, except for the strong crosswinds coming into Melbourne but nevertheless pleasant. Out of the port side windows we were able to see the still discernible 'Marree Man". From 35000 feet one realises the enormity of this intriguing scam. Despite obvious fading it will be around for a while yet, before the rains!!.
Coming into Bali's Ngurah Rai International Airport was like a surfer riding on a wave, we could have literally touched them.
Bali Arrival, Customs etc
No problems going through customs etc although I did see a few people having all their suitcases searched. Halesy even had 4-GS apples with her and was told to just put them away in her suitcase and walk on thru'. We chose not to allow any porters to take care of our luggage, although I believe this costs only a 1000Rp per item. Just say, "No thankyou", and they will leave you alone. There are trolleys readily available in the terminal.
Transfer to Sanur
This we had already arranged through our Harvey World travel agent Escape Holidays. Our guide Adi and driver were waiting for us and we were quickly on our way. In our party there were four who had pre-paid $20AUD each for the 25-minute trip to our Hotel in Sanur, ie $80. We now realise that we would not do this again, and would arrange our own transfers next time. It is so, so easy, but being first timers; well you know the rest!!
Besakih Beach Resort Sanur
Our Hotel proved to be everything that we wanted except for the lack of double beds. It has nice spacious rooms; Rooms 251 &255 had a balcony over looking the well-kept gardens. The Besakih is about 20 years old now and has recently undergone some refurbishing. It used to be divided into 5 separate types of accommodation, bungalows etc but nowadays offers moderate 3 *** class rating Run of the House accommodation.
The Pool area was very popular with the residents but somewhat shaded by the large trees that affront the beach allowing through only filtered sunlight. The pool was a trifle cool compared to others on our trip. Nevertheless, the area is only a few steps from the beach where you can sun bake, have a massage and manicure, or buy from the numerous hawkers who prowl up & down, anything from watches, belts and caps to kites, butterfly clips, cigs and, lighters.
Prices tended to be a little higher in Sanur than in Kuta as we found out. The number of tourists were down in Sanur as was elsewhere, hence prices creep upwards, but still quite cheap. Pays to shop around first. The old adage "Just look for the first couple of days" is good advice.
Near the Besakih Resort.
45000Rp for NIKE, Billabong, Rolex etc "watches", 6000Rp for Caps, 40000Rp for large buckle leather belts ie CK, Armani etc, 40000Rp for ½ massage or 70000Rp for an hour, 35000Rp for a full manicure with nails painted, 25000Rp for us guys who forewent the painted flowers. We recommend Penny for your nails and Susie for a massage.
Sindhu Beach Markets
We were unprepared for the very aggressive girls from these market shops, despite numerous warnings from forum postings eg shar^kie. On our first morning walk along the beachfront promenade we were beset upon by numerous girls. They sidle up to you and innocently begin a polite conversation, eg Where are you from? How many times in Bali? Where are you staying? etc etc . Their ploy was unknown to us, but we soon found out what they were up to. We must have walked about 200metres while all this was going on. Then suddenly "You come into my shop? We were going to the Sindhu Markets, trying to find Shop 28 Tootsies, but got sidetrack by all that was going on. They make you feel obligated to have a look and that's their ploy. Anyway we found Tootsies and went inside to relax and escape. This proved to be a most welcomed retreat from what could have developed into a "bit of a bun fight" between the girls. Tootsies is great, see all the other forum postings re this. We bought lots of T-shirts, caps, socks, wallets etc. The only negative thing we found was that she had mostly limited stock with some items, ie T-shirts, purses but it was wonderful not having to haggle a price. At least you now knew the going price and could venture into the other shops forewarned.
Three-Day Bali Cultural & Countryside Tour.
Having stayed at the Besakih for 2 nights we were off on Wednesday for a 3 day tour, also prepaid through Escape Holidays, and run by Easy Rider Tours. This tour was a package deal, currently in the "Harvey World " brochure, consisting of transport in a A/C Mini bus, 2 nights accommodation en route, American-style BF, an English speaking tour guide, all entry fees, parking donations etc.
Cost $292AUD per person.
Day 1.
Tanah Lot, the Taman Ayun Royal Temple, the Alas Kedaton Monkey Forest, Bedugul and Lake Bratan, then over to the Git Git Waterfall and Bajur Hot Springs. Overnight was at the Hotel Aneka Lovina. A great setting with a superb Pool
Day 2
Travel to Kintamani, Lake Bratur, and the Putung rice terraces. Overnight at the Hotel Rama Candi Dasa. That night we(6) waited nearly an hour for our meals.
Day 3
The Goa Lawah Ancient Bat Cave, Kertagosa, Klunkungs Royal Court of Justice, Celuk & Mas, then on to Ubud where we stayed for another two nights.
We thoroughly enjoyed this trip. It enabled us to get an insight into the real Bali. The first day was jammed packed with excitement and amazing scenery. We had a truly wonderful guide Adi who made us feel at home in his beautiful country.
However we realised later that we could have possibly taken in most of these sights with day trips from Sanur at a much-reduced cost by arranging our own tours. We also could have saved on our Hotel costs with bonus free nights etc. Since we broke up our stay in numerous Hotels we weren't able to take advantage of our free nights at the Besakih, eg stay 6 pay for 5, stay 10 pay for 7, etc. None the less it was a great experience for first timers and good value despite the fact we wouldn't do it again.
UBUD & The Heritage Champlung Sari Hotel
We stayed here for two nights. A moderate rating Hotel within reasonable walking distance of shops, albeit uphill to the main area. The Hotel is located near the Monkey Forest and we certainly heard and saw their presence early morning, without really bothering us. The hotel was fine, our rooms had a Double bed; Halesy had a bout of Bali Belly, which she laced with brandy for 12 hours, finally succumbing to the Imodium. Everything else was great.
From here we took a day trip to the Taman Burung Bird Park and the Elephant Safari Park. Our driver cost 140000Rp for the whole day. We hired Made outside our hotel the night before. We didn't bother to cut him down, as the price seemed very reasonable. We left at 9.00am, arrived at the Bird Park at about 9.40am, stayed there until about 1.00pm, then onto the cool jungle forest of Desa Taro to see the elephants, some 20 minutes north of Ubud, arriving at about 1.45pm. We left at 3.45pm, and got back to our hotel with a few stops along the way at about 5.30pm.
Taman Burung Bird Park
This was no doubt the highlight of our trip for Birdman. It compares very favourably with Singapore's Bird Park. Halesy & Birdman both purchased T-shirts with their photograph holding numerous colourful fledglings. Cost $AUD
As mentioned elsewhere in this forum I have to make mention of the immaculately kept grounds, extremely pristine clean Toilet area, and sumptuous snacks on offer at the Restaurant Area. It was a treat to sit in such an environment, sip on our fruit juices and take in the atmosphere. We all rated this very highly in our myriad of experiences.
Elephant Safari Park
The trip up to Desa Taro was in itself an incredible experience. This was what we say was the true Bali. The locals were having their bath with all the family in roadside pools. Washing draped over the bushes. The ever present rice paddies abounded. Roads that obviously will be in need of some repair with the now ever increasing traffic to this favourite tourist attraction were pothole after pot hole. On entering the Park we opted for the short ride (18 minutes) which Halesy thought would be enough. It was a magnificent experience and a venture well thought out by the Proprietors who run other attractions throughout Bali. Cost for the entrance and ride was the equivalent of $45AUD per person, Perhaps somewhat on the high side maybe but you were able to get a true feeling for the environment and of course sitting atop an elephant isn't something you do everyday now is it?
We hired Made the next day to take us back to the Besakih at Sanur. We went looking for some furniture at Mas, but unfortunately Halesy & I couldn't decide really what we wanted, so left it till the next time. We did see quite a lot that we liked.
Highlights while back at Sanur
Jakz Place
We can thoroughly recommend this little cafe. Located on Jalan Danali Tamlingan, just across the road from the Gazebo Hotel. We ate there many times, extremely reasonable prices and friendly staff. Main meals for less than 20000Rp.
Bonsai Restaurant
Located on the Sanur Beach front. If you want a quick snack or meal we found this place to be really value for money
Agung Segara Restaurant
Also located on the Sanur Beach front this restaurant offered a little up market style meals that we found to be extremely well presented right on the sands of the incredible Sanur beach.
The Aussie Bar Agung Segara
We had a few stops here during our many walks along the beachfront. Birdman & I had a number of Bintangs while the girls Halesy & CD ordered Sprites and made "shandies". Now what does that say? Great local peanuts served with your beer. Worth stopping just to read all the Posters.
The Hawkers, have some fun with them!!!
By now we had really settled into Bali life and were able to truly understand the lifestyle of these omnipresent folk. We by now knew most of them by name and always had a joke with them, which they always seemed to enjoy. Especially Ali the boss Watchman, Robert his offsider belt man, Steady Eddy, Johnny Be Good, Elvis, and of course Little Johnny from Singaraja who I ended up giving my calculator; I think he needed it more than me. What a lifestyle and work environment these people have? I'm sure they'll remember us next year when we return!!!
Jimbaran Bay
We ventured out to the fishing village, just before sunset at the invitation of our tour guide Adi. He had arranged our Transport to/fro Sanur free of charge to the Dolphin Cafe, right on the Jimbaran Bay beach. At first we thought "Oh yeah what's the catch?" But there didn't seem to be any. The four of us viewed an incredible sunset, had our own table facing the water, had complimentary Soup & prawn crackers, ordered a 1.7kg red snapper, 1kg prawns, 1kg calamari, crab 1kg, plus 2 large Bintangs, 2 Sprites, and a complimentary dessert of fruit, plus the 25 min. ride home to Sanur; all for about 372000Rp, a tad over $20AUD each. Now that was a great feast!! There were heaps of other restaurants along this beach, (20 maybe) possibly offering similar deals, so check it out.
Matahari Kuta Square
We hired a driver in Sanur for 20000Rp to take us to Kuta Square. This shopping complex was just what Halesy & CD were looking for. We arrived at 10.00am and got back to our Sanur Hotel at about 7.00pm. I now know what is meant by "Shop til you drop"!! The girls had a great day. Birdman was feeling a little under the weather, with mild Bali Belly and so mostly looked after the bags of shopping which seemed to be mounting by the hour. After a few Imodium, Birdman took a couple of SG tablets and seemed to pick up fairly quickly thereafter. Matahari's is fabulous 4 levels of shopping. We bought amongst other things, Polo Ralph Lauren T-Shirts, Sandals, Silk Ties, Nike Shoes, Kid's Clothes, Leather shoes, etc. The girls went home already arranging their next trip back in 2 days time.
Lembongan Isle Bali Hai Cruise
We chose to take the sail catamaran from Benoa. Our trip over to Lembongan was great. We were served juices, cold drinks, fruit, and snacks. Relatively calm waters and very relaxing. The island facilities are extremely well set up. A beautiful pool and adequate places to put yourself down for the day. Lunch was the highlight of the day, a magnificent BBQ, with prawns, beef, chicken, salads, sauces etc Fantastic!!!
Birdman & I went banana boat riding, while Birdman also went off to the Pontoon for a look-see in the glass bottom boat. You could also take a village tour, which many did, go snorkelling or para sailing. We just relaxed and vegged out for the day mostly. How wonderful!!
The trip back. Well what can I say. About 10 minutes out under sail now only, Halesy was looking decidedly green, and this little Phanto wasn't all that great either. That sumptuous lunch was looking in jeopardy. Halesy disappeared below only to re emerge some 20 minutes later looking absolutely terrible. Lunch was now well and truly gone what a waste!! I just made it to the harbour. Birdman, who normally gets sick on our Adelaide's River Torrens Popeye, funnily enough didn't feel a bit of the mal da mare. We all agreed we should have taken the fast Cat back. Next time Halesy.
Cost for the day $90AUD per person. Either book before you go or while in Bali, it's still approx the same price.
Departure Tax
Now 50000Rp paid before you leave.
Money Changers
I know a lot has been said re the above, but take the advice posted. We changed our money at the "authorised" dealers who gave you a receipt. We had no problems. Don't even bother trying to get a few hundred Rp more, these ones are the rip off merchants, and have only 5000 or10000 Rp notes to exchange. They're good scammers, it's almost worth just trying it once for the entertainment to see what they do. We did. After about 4 times to/fro counting, we walked out laughing. He kept dropping money on the floor. Honest mistake!!!!
Conclusion
We had a fabulous 13 days in Bali. We agreed that next time we would stay in Sanur for the entire time, commuting or day tripping when required. It's only 15000-20000Rp to Kuta, or about 140000Rp a whole day for a driver The people are so friendly and we had a most relaxing holiday.
Boy! Work has been hard ever since, but we're counting down already.