Posted by New York on Wednesday, 21. October 1998 at 20:34 Bali Time:
As the people have asked for more detail, here is my trip to Lombok and Gili Meno,
Bali trip was taken first 2 weeks of October 1998.
Reports from Candidasa, Ubud, and first 2 days in Kuta to follow in the next week. My wife says I have been spending to much time on Bali (computer and telliing people) since we returned.
Day 3
The PDI Megawati Congress was coming in a few days. October 8-10. People on motorbikes with red flags were all around Kuta. It was very safe but newspaper articles warned that many people, possibly up to 1 million, were coming to Bali for the Congress. Most of the activities were to be centered in Sanur. Many tour agencies cancelled tours around Bali were to be cancelled for those days because of the Congress and the massive traffic that will be around the island. We decided to leave and go to Lombok.
Left Kuta at 7am to go to Lombok. We had wanted to fly, but the rates seemed very high ( I think it was around $60-$70 US each/one way.
Went to Benoa Harbor by taxi. Please everyone listed to this forum, take a blue taxi, rates by persons offering transport are about 2-3x higher than the blue taxi are from Kuta. We did not have tickets for the Mabua Express
Ways to get to Lombok
1) Fly
2) Slow Ferry- anywhere from 4-6 hours, not sure of the cost, I would assume 10,000-20,000 rupiah
3) Mabua Express - 2 ˝ hour ferry from Benoa Harbor to Lembar, Lombok. Price is in US dollars. $20 or $25 for first class. First class was sold out that morning, we were put on a waiting list for regular class. This boat catered to mainly tourists, there were less than a handfull of locals, if that many. There were enough seats on the boat, we went to the bottom deck (total 2 decks), seats were comfortable, ac didn't seem to work too well ( I think they had ac), they gave us a sealed cup of water and a roll with something in it. Showed the movie Shining Through with Michael Douglas and Melanie Griffith . Ride was slightly rough (we are not too seaworthy, take Dramamine if you do not like boat rides)
4) Kinchina Ferry, new high speed ferry, started the end of September, no one knows about yet. Prices were 50,000 and 65.000 rupiah. Goes from Lombok to Padaung Bay (about 10 miles from Candidasa). Price includes transfer to Candidasa, Kuta, or Ubud. Ferry takes 2 hours, holds 135 people. Keep on asking about the ferrry because very few tour agencies promote it. Tour agent outside the Pacific supermarket in Sengiggi sells tickets. I am sure there are places in Kuta, but we did not see any and did not know about it until we were in Lombok.
We took the Mabua Express
We left on time and arrived at Lembar around 11:30am. Waited about 15-20 minutes for our bags. They had someone check them in with a sticker and something, but no one really checked who took what at Lembar, but it seamed safe. Walked out of the port and found a driver, english speaking tour guide, non-airconditioned van. Paid $20 US for the day (little did we know air-con with driver/guide were going for $10-$15 US/day. But this was the first time we hired a driver and didn't realize this, and do not feel upset. My advise regarding hiring a driver or buying anything. NEVER HIRE OR BUY SOMETHING AT THE FIRST PLACE YOU SEE. You need to see what the going rate is, and you can always go back.
I showed the driver on the map we wanted to see Kuta Beach (in Lombok), Denpensar, and Sengiggi. He seemed very familiar to this route and had intensions to stop at several "factories" and shops along the way. Definitely stop at one or two, but unless you want to spend the bulk of your day going in and out of a van from one place to another, make it clear to the driver that you do not want to buy anything and to only stop at 2 factories, then if you like it you can always tell the driver to stop at another factory or two. If you are hesitant and tell the driver to stop at a few, that is a recipe for stopping at 6-7 factories. It is interesting to see the process of batiks or silver or wood carvings, but make sure you know prices before you buy. I recommend not buying unless you know the prices or really really like this. Also be aware your driver will be getting commission on your purchases. We stopped at a Susak Village, in Sade (poor village with all houses looking the same.
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE COINS or small change for the villages, or another suggestion is to bring items from home (e.g. pencils, pins, coins from your own currency, necessities like toothpaste or toiletries). Went on to Kuta Beach, this was the most beautiful beach we have seen on our trip, white sand, crystal clear blue water, not too crowded. Visted the top resort, Novotel, beautiful hotel, top resort. Looked at a room, own pool outside the room. Best rate was $108-$178. We later went to Sengiggi and found a tour agency who could of gotton us the basic room for $79 w/breakfast and taxes.
Then went to Tanjung Agung beach, 3 miles away, beautiful beach, clear blue water (reminded me of some of the best Carribean beaches). Then traveled back north to the capital, Mataram. Visited the Mayura Water Palace and Pura Neru (largest Hindu temple in Lombok). By about 5pm in the eveninge, we arrived in Sengiggi at the Puri Bunga Cottages (our tour guides "brother" works there). We bargained down the rate to $25 (they started at $70) for a deluxe room 86 steps up the mountain.
Puri Bunga Cottages - Great Hotel, nice pool, ac, beautiful setting, breakfast and taxes included, great location, about a 5 minute walk from the Pacific supermarket and the main town. Welcome drink and cold towel were given to us as we checked into our room. Had dinner at the restaurant, reasonable prices and good food. This hotel is across the street from the Sheratan hotel and the beach
Other hotels that I visited
Sheraton- Beautiful resort, pool with slide the shape of a mountain. Best rates were $108 plus tax included breakfast for basic room. Or $78 plus tax (no breakfast). Well worth it if you wanted luxury.. When I asked for $70 w/tax and breakfast, they made a phone call and said no. We left
Holiday Inn- Bad location, about 2-3 miles from everything.. Beautiful hotel. Were able to get the best rate down to $75 w/breakfast and taxes.
Day 4
Woke up early in the morning, had a great breakfast at Puri Bunga (pinapple pancakes, fried rice, corn flakes with milk, pastries, crousants, fried noodles, toast, fruit, and other things)
Hired a driver for the day, about US $17, we thought we would tour for 6 hours, but only spent 4 hours. Went to a Sugar Factory, we were the only ones there.
Monkey Forest, again the only ones there, very nice and monkeys came right up to us. This forest is not as organised as the one in Ubud, it is right on the road. Bring Peanuts.
Went to big waterfall, about a 20 minute hike from were you parked. It took about 1 ˝ hours from the Monkey Forest to get there. We met people that were starting their treck up to the mountain there. At the waterfall an english speaking guide followed us, we told him we didn't need a guide but we did feel a little sad and let him walk with us (about 10,000 rupiah). Rate was negotiable but we thought negotiating from a US $1 was petty and stupid. Waterfall was worth it, the walk was moderate at 20 minutes each way.
Had dinner at Café Enak in Sengigi. Pizzas sucked the big one. Went to sleep ealy that night.
Day 5
Woke up, had breakfast, went for a swim. I got a haircut (20,000 rupiah), sent some emails (23,000 rupiah for an hour). Went to Pacific Supermarket and also purchased tickets for Kinchina ferry for Day 7 at 1pm to leave Lembar for Bali.
Ways to Gili Islands
Boat from Lembar, when you arrive from Mabua Express, I think this needs to be pre-arranged with the hotel or tour agency
Boat from Sengigi - about 2 hours, arranged from tour agency, not sure of price, but was told a rough trip on the water
Boat from dock in the north - about 30-45 minutes, can arrange charter or public ferry
We took a taxi to get a ferry to Gili Meno (the quietest of the 3 islands). Taxi from Sengigi was 40,000 rupiah w/tip. The taxi almost did not make it, we were stuck on a hill for about 10 minutes. Got to the dock in Lombok (about 50 minutes north around some beautiful scenery). The minute we got out of the taxi, we were swarmed by locals selling us things and offering us transport to the islands. One guy took our bags, wanted 50,000 rupiah to take us to the island. We said we would wait for the local public ferry at 2,000 rupiah a person, he said it takes a long time. We settled on 35,000 rupiah.
About the local ferry, leaves in the morning, not sure of the time, or will leave throughout the day once the boat is full. If the boat is not full, you can offer to pay for the remaining passengers at 2,000 rupiah per person and the ferry would leave. We still charted a boat for 35,000 rupiah to Gili Meno. Waves were slightly choppy, ride took about 35 minutes. Wear thongs or shoes you do not mind getting wet or shoes that you can easily take off. It was a canoe type craft (little larger) and you have to go into the water about one foot of water to climb in.
We arrived, only one hawker was there, he took our bags, said he worked for the Gazebo Hotel
Gazebo Hotel - Cottage style thatched hut, nice room, great location, Great fridge (iced our waters over night), very nice beach, a/c and electricity 6pm-9pm, no pool. Wanted $US $40 and he would not budge.
Casablanka - tiny tiny pool, average room, beautiful setting in gardens, about 150 meters from beach.
There were other places to stay, bungaloes on beach, no a/c, outside bathroom, for much less money. Refer to Lonely planet for list of choices.
Walked around the whole island that after noon. It took 3 hours with stops for lunch, at Brend's (Great Great Pizza), and stops at Good Heart restaurant for a drink. They were also building a new hotel, with nice size pool and swim up bar, looked pretty upscale on the other side of the island. I would give it another 9-12 months before it will be ready. If walking around the island, make sure you stop by 7pm or have a lot of mosquito repellent
Bouginvilla Resort- about 1 kilometer from Gazebo hotel, average pool, Cottage style thatched hut, high cielink, ac was not too great, nice room, Great Fridge, not a good beach in front, US $30 with ac at night. We stayed at the Bouginvilla.
Day 6
Woke up to sounds of lizards and roosters, had breakfast (toast and fruit), decided to check out of the hotel due to many mosquito bytes. Found the same guy that showed us the Gazebo hotel. Arranged boat tour of 3 snorkling places (clam area, turtle area, and christmas trees area) and also a ride back to Lombok. Cost 100,000 rupiah. Snorkling was ok, waters were a bit rough. Sun was out with about 20% clouds.
Arrived in Lombok, a driver took us back to Candidasa, went to hotel driver recommended
Puri Saron, location was not too good, rate of $20 was best price
Preferred to go to Puri Bunga again. So went there, this time had a room very close to the pool, rate was $20. On this forum someone said they got a room for $15 a few months ago. Hung out at Sengigi that night. Tried some chocalate bars, local brand, they were really bad (possibly the humidity in the supermarket, as there was no a/c in supermarket. Didn't spend the 10,000 rupiah on Cadbury bars. Pringles were 49,000 rupiah.
Went to Café Alberto, there are 2 of them, one in a small shopping center across from Puri Bunga, the other about 2km south on same road. We took a Café Alberto van to the far away one. Beautifull view, empty restaurant, pizza was ok, nothing great.
Day 7
Woke up, very good breakfast at Puri Bunga (fried rice, toast, banana pancakes, rice krispies, fruit, crousants). Quick swim, then took Blue taxi to Lembar harbor, about 55 minutes away. Again, it pays to wait for a blue taxi, do not take other transport, ride was 30,000 rupiah, you are guaranteed a/c. It is on a meter system. We got to the harbor and we were the only tourists, several hawkers ran to us, we purchased a few t-shirts. Watch your valuables closely, most people are friendly and they want to practice their English. I gave one person some American magazines and he was very excited as he went through the pictures.
Kinchina, boat left at 2pm, it was supposed to leave at 1pm. Clean, new boat, seats 135, maybe 20 people were on the boat. They showed a Hong Kong movie with English subtitles, we did not get a chance to see the end because we arrived in Bali. The trip was 2 hours, landed at Padung Bay. Someone at the boat looked at our free transfer and found a taxi for us to Candidisa (which was free because of the transfer).
Note about Kinchina. Ticket prices are 50,000 and 65,000 rupiah. We paid 65,000 rupiah with the tour agent. There appeared to be no difference in first class (the literature said there were only 12 first class seets) and regular, it could have been because there were only 20 people on the boat and they closed the first class section. Also when we showed our reciept to the ticket office at Lembar harbor, they gave us the real tickets that were stamped 35,000 rupiah. Anyone know why??? We did not.
Report from Candidasa, Ubud, and first 2 days in Kuta to follow. My wife says I have been spending to much time on Bali (computer and telliing people) since we returned.
As the people have asked for more detail, here is my trip to Lombok and Gili Meno,
Bali trip was taken first 2 weeks of October 1998.
Reports from Candidasa, Ubud, and first 2 days in Kuta to follow in the next week. My wife says I have been spending to much time on Bali (computer and telliing people) since we returned.
Day 3
The PDI Megawati Congress was coming in a few days. October 8-10. People on motorbikes with red flags were all around Kuta. It was very safe but newspaper articles warned that many people, possibly up to 1 million, were coming to Bali for the Congress. Most of the activities were to be centered in Sanur. Many tour agencies cancelled tours around Bali were to be cancelled for those days because of the Congress and the massive traffic that will be around the island. We decided to leave and go to Lombok.
Left Kuta at 7am to go to Lombok. We had wanted to fly, but the rates seemed very high ( I think it was around $60-$70 US each/one way.
Went to Benoa Harbor by taxi. Please everyone listed to this forum, take a blue taxi, rates by persons offering transport are about 2-3x higher than the blue taxi are from Kuta. We did not have tickets for the Mabua Express
Ways to get to Lombok
1) Fly
2) Slow Ferry- anywhere from 4-6 hours, not sure of the cost, I would assume 10,000-20,000 rupiah
3) Mabua Express - 2 ˝ hour ferry from Benoa Harbor to Lembar, Lombok. Price is in US dollars. $20 or $25 for first class. First class was sold out that morning, we were put on a waiting list for regular class. This boat catered to mainly tourists, there were less than a handfull of locals, if that many. There were enough seats on the boat, we went to the bottom deck (total 2 decks), seats were comfortable, ac didn't seem to work too well ( I think they had ac), they gave us a sealed cup of water and a roll with something in it. Showed the movie Shining Through with Michael Douglas and Melanie Griffith . Ride was slightly rough (we are not too seaworthy, take Dramamine if you do not like boat rides)
4) Kinchina Ferry, new high speed ferry, started the end of September, no one knows about yet. Prices were 50,000 and 65.000 rupiah. Goes from Lombok to Padaung Bay (about 10 miles from Candidasa). Price includes transfer to Candidasa, Kuta, or Ubud. Ferry takes 2 hours, holds 135 people. Keep on asking about the ferrry because very few tour agencies promote it. Tour agent outside the Pacific supermarket in Sengiggi sells tickets. I am sure there are places in Kuta, but we did not see any and did not know about it until we were in Lombok.
We took the Mabua Express
We left on time and arrived at Lembar around 11:30am. Waited about 15-20 minutes for our bags. They had someone check them in with a sticker and something, but no one really checked who took what at Lembar, but it seamed safe. Walked out of the port and found a driver, english speaking tour guide, non-airconditioned van. Paid $20 US for the day (little did we know air-con with driver/guide were going for $10-$15 US/day. But this was the first time we hired a driver and didn't realize this, and do not feel upset. My advise regarding hiring a driver or buying anything. NEVER HIRE OR BUY SOMETHING AT THE FIRST PLACE YOU SEE. You need to see what the going rate is, and you can always go back.
I showed the driver on the map we wanted to see Kuta Beach (in Lombok), Denpensar, and Sengiggi. He seemed very familiar to this route and had intensions to stop at several "factories" and shops along the way. Definitely stop at one or two, but unless you want to spend the bulk of your day going in and out of a van from one place to another, make it clear to the driver that you do not want to buy anything and to only stop at 2 factories, then if you like it you can always tell the driver to stop at another factory or two. If you are hesitant and tell the driver to stop at a few, that is a recipe for stopping at 6-7 factories. It is interesting to see the process of batiks or silver or wood carvings, but make sure you know prices before you buy. I recommend not buying unless you know the prices or really really like this. Also be aware your driver will be getting commission on your purchases. We stopped at a Susak Village, in Sade (poor village with all houses looking the same.
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE COINS or small change for the villages, or another suggestion is to bring items from home (e.g. pencils, pins, coins from your own currency, necessities like toothpaste or toiletries). Went on to Kuta Beach, this was the most beautiful beach we have seen on our trip, white sand, crystal clear blue water, not too crowded. Visted the top resort, Novotel, beautiful hotel, top resort. Looked at a room, own pool outside the room. Best rate was $108-$178. We later went to Sengiggi and found a tour agency who could of gotton us the basic room for $79 w/breakfast and taxes.
Then went to Tanjung Agung beach, 3 miles away, beautiful beach, clear blue water (reminded me of some of the best Carribean beaches). Then traveled back north to the capital, Mataram. Visited the Mayura Water Palace and Pura Neru (largest Hindu temple in Lombok). By about 5pm in the eveninge, we arrived in Sengiggi at the Puri Bunga Cottages (our tour guides "brother" works there). We bargained down the rate to $25 (they started at $70) for a deluxe room 86 steps up the mountain.
Puri Bunga Cottages - Great Hotel, nice pool, ac, beautiful setting, breakfast and taxes included, great location, about a 5 minute walk from the Pacific supermarket and the main town. Welcome drink and cold towel were given to us as we checked into our room. Had dinner at the restaurant, reasonable prices and good food. This hotel is across the street from the Sheratan hotel and the beach
Other hotels that I visited
Sheraton- Beautiful resort, pool with slide the shape of a mountain. Best rates were $108 plus tax included breakfast for basic room. Or $78 plus tax (no breakfast). Well worth it if you wanted luxury.. When I asked for $70 w/tax and breakfast, they made a phone call and said no. We left
Holiday Inn- Bad location, about 2-3 miles from everything.. Beautiful hotel. Were able to get the best rate down to $75 w/breakfast and taxes.
Day 4
Woke up early in the morning, had a great breakfast at Puri Bunga (pinapple pancakes, fried rice, corn flakes with milk, pastries, crousants, fried noodles, toast, fruit, and other things)
Hired a driver for the day, about US $17, we thought we would tour for 6 hours, but only spent 4 hours. Went to a Sugar Factory, we were the only ones there.
Monkey Forest, again the only ones there, very nice and monkeys came right up to us. This forest is not as organised as the one in Ubud, it is right on the road. Bring Peanuts. Highly Recommended!!!
Went to big waterfall, about a 20 minute hike from were you parked. It took about 1 ˝ hours from the Monkey Forest to get there. We met people that were starting their treck up to the mountain there. At the waterfall an english speaking guide followed us, we told him we didn't need a guide but we did feel a little sad and let him walk with us (about 10,000 rupiah). Rate was negotiable but we thought negotiating from a US $1 was petty and stupid. Waterfall was worth it, the walk was moderate at 20 minutes each way.
Had dinner at Café Enak in Sengigi. Pizzas sucked the big one. Went to sleep ealy that night.
Day 5
Woke up, had breakfast, went for a swim. I got a haircut (20,000 rupiah), sent some emails (23,000 rupiah for an hour). Went to Pacific Supermarket and also purchased tickets for Kinchina ferry for Day 7 at 1pm to leave Lembar for Bali.
Ways to Gili Islands
Boat from Lembar, when you arrive from Mabua Express, I think this needs to be pre-arranged with the hotel or tour agency
Boat from Sengigi - about 2 hours, arranged from tour agency, not sure of price, but was told a rough trip on the water
Boat from dock in the north - about 30-45 minutes, can arrange charter or public ferry
We took a taxi to get a ferry to Gili Meno (the quietest of the 3 islands). Taxi from Sengigi was 40,000 rupiah w/tip. The taxi almost did not make it, we were stuck on a hill for about 10 minutes. Got to the dock in Lombok (about 50 minutes north around some beautiful scenery). The minute we got out of the taxi, we were swarmed by locals selling us things and offering us transport to the islands. One guy took our bags, wanted 50,000 rupiah to take us to the island. We said we would wait for the local public ferry at 2,000 rupiah a person, he said it takes a long time. We settled on 35,000 rupiah.
About the local ferry, leaves in the morning, not sure of the time, or will leave throughout the day once the boat is full. If the boat is not full, you can offer to pay for the remaining passengers at 2,000 rupiah per person and the ferry would leave. We still charted a boat for 35,000 rupiah to Gili Meno. Waves were slightly choppy, ride took about 35 minutes. Wear thongs or shoes you do not mind getting wet or shoes that you can easily take off. It was a canoe type craft (little larger) and you have to go into the water about one foot of water to climb in.
We arrived, only one hawker was there, he took our bags, said he worked for the Gazebo Hotel
Gazebo Hotel - Cottage style thatched hut, nice room, great location, Great fridge (iced our waters over night), very nice beach, a/c and electricity 6pm-9pm, no pool. Wanted $US $40 and he would not budge.
Casablanka - tiny tiny pool, average room, beautiful setting in gardens, about 150 meters from beach.
There were other places to stay, bungaloes on beach, no a/c, outside bathroom, for much less money. Refer to Lonely planet for list of choices.
Walked around the whole island that after noon. It took 3 hours with stops for lunch, at Brend's (Great Great Pizza), and stops at Good Heart restaurant for a drink. They were also building a new hotel, with nice size pool and swim up bar, looked pretty upscale on the other side of the island. I would give it another 9-12 months before it will be ready. If walking around the island, make sure you stop by 7pm or have a lot of mosquito repellent
Bouginvilla Resort- about 1 kilometer from Gazebo hotel, average pool, Cottage style thatched hut, high cielink, ac was not too great, nice room, Great Fridge, not a good beach in front, US $30 with ac at night. We stayed at the Bouginvilla.
Day 6
Woke up to sounds of lizards and roosters, had breakfast (toast and fruit), decided to check out of the hotel due to many mosquito bytes. Found the same guy that showed us the Gazebo hotel. Arranged boat tour of 3 snorkling places (clam area, turtle area, and christmas trees area) and also a ride back to Lombok. Cost 100,000 rupiah. Snorkling was ok, waters were a bit rough. Sun was out with about 20% clouds.
Arrived in Lombok, a driver took us back to Candidasa, went to hotel driver recommended
Puri Saron, location was not too good, rate of $20 was best price
Preferred to go to Puri Bunga again. So went there, this time had a room very close to the pool, rate was $20. On this forum someone said they got a room for $15 a few months ago. Hung out at Sengigi that night. Tried some chocalate bars, local brand, they were really bad (possibly the humidity in the supermarket, as there was no a/c in supermarket. Didn't spend the 10,000 rupiah on Cadbury bars. Pringles were 49,000 rupiah.
Went to Café Alberto, there are 2 of them, one in a small shopping center across from Puri Bunga, the other about 2km south on same road. We took a Café Alberto van to the far away one. Beautifull view, empty restaurant, pizza was ok, nothing great.
Day 7
Woke up, very good breakfast at Puri Bunga (fried rice, toast, banana pancakes, rice krispies, fruit, crousants). Quick swim, then took Blue taxi to Lembar harbor, about 55 minutes away. Again, it pays to wait for a blue taxi, do not take other transport, ride was 30,000 rupiah, you are guaranteed a/c. It is on a meter system. We got to the harbor and we were the only tourists, several hawkers ran to us, we purchased a few t-shirts. Watch your valuables closely, most people are friendly and they want to practice their English. I gave one person some American magazines and he was very excited as he went through the pictures.
Kinchina, boat left at 2pm, it was supposed to leave at 1pm. Clean, new boat, seats 135, maybe 20 people were on the boat. They showed a Hong Kong movie with English subtitles, we did not get a chance to see the end because we arrived in Bali. The trip was 2 hours, landed at Padung Bay. Someone at the boat looked at our free transfer and found a taxi for us to Candidisa (which was free because of the transfer).
Note about Kinchina. Ticket prices are 50,000 and 65,000 rupiah. We paid 65,000 rupiah with the tour agent. There appeared to be no difference in first class (the literature said there were only 12 first class seets) and regular, it could have been because there were only 20 people on the boat and they closed the first class section. Also when we showed our reciept to the ticket office at Lembar harbor, they gave us the real tickets that were stamped 35,000 rupiah. Anyone know why??? We did not.
Report from Candidasa, Ubud, and first 2 days in Kuta to follow. My wife says I have been spending to much time on Bali (computer and telliing people) since we returned.