Just back after our 4th visit, Ubud same same but a little different and still great, Seminak was overpriced and I feel overated (pity we were there for a week:( but we had a lovely villa away from the rush and bustle which made it ok and a good base for adventures once refreshed)--- and we have finally found an absolute champion of a driver after having many over the years who have been either recomended or sourced through folks in Bali.
Arrived at the new u-beaut airport 11pm on Virgin and wizzed through immigration etc. all the while being hassled by VIP touts with promises that if we didn't accept their offers that there was a 3 hour wait. As it was 11:30pm the drive to Ubud was cool and no traffic, arrived at the Ubud Bungalows, centrally situated on Monkey Forrest Road, where we have stayed before and the happy smiling faces were there to greet us, cold bintang (requested) in the fridge, mozzie coils lit, rooms clean and inviting and a cooling shower before sitting out on the verandah and drinking in the return to Bali. There is also a 24/7 shop rught next door for those little things you forgot (like something for the wife to drink)like weirdy snacks, bottled water, toiletries etc. etc.
After a few hours sleep we were up and running, breakfast in lovely open jungle surounds, no traffic noise and the first timers that were with us were lulled into a false sense of relaxation and comfort. The baptisim of fire began with exiting on to the now busy JL MForrest and walking up to the market which now has both a new section and the old one still in place which made for a nice contrast. Lunch was at a number of little warrungs as we wandered around the now familiar streets and then back early afternoon to our sanctuary, refreshing swim and more verandah sitting, day one complete.
For the next few days we hired Ubud Friendly Driver, Astawa or Nyoman who took us on a Bail experience from the mountains to the sea, from sleepy little villages to temples and very special places; sometimes along roads no tourist has seen. This was the first time that the ‘real Bali' truly unfolded for us, through him. Following conversations about different plants, herbs and fruits along the way he was even kind enough to invite us to a hands on cooking demonstration with local produce with his mum and his sisters in the family compound, it was fantastic, both the food we produced and the family's friendly interaction. Astawa was also a mine of information and gave us hints on everything from where to eat, cultural expectations and ceremonial do's and don'ts to history, places to source items and where, when and when not to bargain. His concerned and protective guidance was invaluable and he was always there with icy cold perfumed face towels and complimentary bottled water. Two of us had a nagging cough so he sourced peeled Galangal for us to chew which fixed it. If you are interested in the spiritual side he is also an artist, musician and lead character dancer, blessed and sanctioned by the high priest to perform in local ceremonies. These are not tourist displays but personal devotion and beliefs which are very special to him. Check Tripadvisor for reviews & his details etc. are on his web site as well http://www.driver-ubud.com/index.php
Next we went to Seminak and arrived at our villa called TuYung (also on Tripadvisor or Flipkey), and it was simply wonderfull, a tranquil oasis with private pool and garden surounded by a high wall, set bach about 200mt from the busy Eat Street but next to a rice paddy and it almost felt like we were out in the country. That was the highlight of Seminak for us the rest we found overated and overpriced and wont be back there again however if you want flash restaurants etc this is the place. The beach was good but a poor cross selection of eateries and places for a drink, deffinatly the upper end of tourist places here, although a few small warrungs can still be found. We prefer Sanur to Seminak, same same but different.
Next we took a day trip to Lovina (aka Slowvina)and loved it so there is our next destination, a week in Ubud and a week in Lovina, but dont get fooled by map distances, its a long drive up and over the mountains with hairpin turns so takes a whilt but absolutly lovely (be sure to engage a safe driver!!!!)the altitude was so steep we all got slightly swolen feet like you do on a plane but well worth it.
We left at 5:55pm on Virgin through the new airport, just like any other international one, over priced food, lots of brand name shops etc. formalities were efficient and well handled however not enough seats (well short not just a few) in departure areas and the waiting area stank of cigarett smoke which made for a long uncomfortable wait. Back to Bris Vegas by 6am, back to reality, vegimite toast and a long sleep to dream of the next time.