After 10 glorious days in Lovina it was time to move to Ubud, went via Munduk and the twin lakes as we think this is the most scenic route with the views of rice terraces and lakes. You also still get to go through Bedugul and the kandikunning markets. (Had pick up some Strawberries Yum)
Trip took about 2.5hrs but traffic closer to Ubud was horrendous, due to the Royal Cremation that was to take place the next day. Took 25min from bottom of monkey Forrest Road to entrance of Cendana resort( which is just before the soccer field) approx 200m. After the north a huge culture shock too busy.
Cendana is down a small driveway off monkey forrest rd, what a little oasis surrounded by rice fields in the centre of Ubud, we were in the new section at the back, upstairs room with 4 poster bed and balcony overlooking the salt water pool. This is my wife's 3 stay here is 18months. We 1st stayed here 15 years ago and came many times then it became Dr Jim's colonic irrigation spar and guess what we stopped coming. Thankfully Dr Jim has left, so we are now back.
Got Nyoman who has been driving for the hotel for 16 years to organise a scooter for us then off to Cafe Batan Waru on Jl Dewi Sita for lunch. Food here is always good and prices are reasonable.(after Lovina prices everything seems expensive) back to the hotel for a swim before a lovely meal at cafe Wyan. Up early for my morning walk. Up to the Palace to take some photos of the action for today's cremation. Hive of activity attaching the bamboo poles to the 24m high highly decorated 9 tier Bade(Cremation tower) for the 200 odd men to carry the 5-10 ton tower, and the 9m high Lembu( wooden sarcophagus in the shape of a black bull) . Headed off down Jl Raya ubud to find a place to watch the procession. Most places were already reserved but managed to find a front row table at Warung Igelanca about half way to the Dalem Puri( temple of the dead) where the body was to be cremated. As procession was to start at 1pm staff said would hold table until 10.30am.
This turned out to be a great little Warung food was excellent, fresh and cheap, would recommend this restaurant highly only problem no licence to sell bingtang but juices are great. Also great padang food rest 2 doors down. Continued on my walk got back to hotel buy 9am ready for breakfast.
Headed to the pool after breakfast the off down to the palace by this time 100's of people milling around taking photo's of all the action both Balinese and tourists. By now jl Raya Ubud has been blocked off for vehicles and the power co is taking down all the across street power lines so by the time we get to Warung Lgelanca all the power is off. By this time it is about 10.15 another 3hrs to go, wife ensconced in restaurant took off to the Putri Dalem for some photo's. Had to laugh right next to where the cremation was to take place was a big Red Fire truck. All around was a festive atmosphere, stalls set up selling sate,peanuts,cool drink and water,cake stalls,bakso carts and even Fairy floss & candy on a stick reminded me of the Royal Show.
Crowds are slowly building up every rooftop is full of people, all restaurants are full every shopfront has chairs out front and the street is lined with people. Across from us is a grassed bank section full of Balinese men in temple regalia all with same shirts, luckily this is a changeover area where the procession stops and the float carriers change. This happens about every 100m of the route so that each Banjar gets a turn at carrying the Lembu & Bade.
Procession started right on time at 1pm the proceeding crowd was amazing, thousands of people filling the streets making their way to the cremation area, colours and sounds were unbelievable. Then came be gamelan orchestra and conch shell players, followed by women in bright traditional dress with offerings balanced on their heads, beautiful girls with incense burners dressed in gold and yellow with ornate headdresses, more gamelan with drums with 2 sedan chairs with a niece & nephew in royal garb sitting in each.
Then comes the 9.5m high Lembu all in black with gold horns & tail being carried by about 2oo men and being ridden by her Grandson, and cheered on by the crowd which is mingling with be prosession making it a sea of people, followed by the 24m high 9 tier Bade carrying the body of Anak Agung Nian Rai(the Queen Mother) and also ridden by another grandson, crowds took about another 10min to pass.
This was a once in a lifetime experience and the colours,noise and atmosphere was almost impossible to describe.
That night was own wedding anniversary so went to The Pond in Jl Raya Pengosekan for dinner. (Meal was excellent.) After dinner scootered up to Casa Luna for Irish coffee & cake , good finish to a spectacular day.
Next day just cruised around Ubud, had lunch at the little padang rest next to Warung Lgelanca where wife could not resist buying lunch for a beggar family on the street. Dinner was at the Ryoshi Japanese rest on Jl Hanoman, as always food was good. Off to Sanur tomorrow were we will meet up with the kids.
Hope I have not bored you too much .