Ubud.
Apprehensively (not sure of the smaller roads to take) we left little Tina's place and passed the school again then wound our way, turn left, turn right, left, right, right..... until we reached the outskirts of Ubud. I guessed we'd make it there sometime, but there were a few signs that helped our decision making. We arrived in on Jl Raya Sanggingan/Ubud, past Tropical Bale/Mozaic/Indus.
Since it was only 1pm we had lunch at Murni's Warung. We walked down to the lowest level, over the flowing river. I ordered cold iced ginger tea and lumpia, which set me back 45000rp. Bargain!
Tegal Sari had the same effect on each of us. Fabulous to be back! We had rooms 23 and 21, ground level, furtherest two on the rice paddies. The gym has been demolished and is under renovation. Everything else remains the same. We swam and snoozed then chatted around the pool. As we left for dinner, we ordered our breakfast and Muning at reception asked me if I wanted banana pancake as usual. It almost blew me away. Fancy remembering that! I think its my 8th stay here, over 5 years, but really, surely that's pushing it to even remember what guests order for breakfast!
The rice paddies have been stripped of their rice, some ducks are ‘grubbing around', a plough is heaving through the mud, but mostly green regrowth of stubble dominates the view.
I love the noise of the frogs after dark.
Just to deviate for a moment, how come the water lilies open after dark? We also noticed at Jendala that those white spidery (agapantus like) flowers also open at night.
We drove along Monkey Forest road and stopped for dinner at Three Monkeys. We had a rice paddies view table. I have previously ordered sesame crushed red snapper fillets with mango sauce, but this time selected grilled Thai curry chicken breast, on a stack of ginger. It was delicious and good to try something new there. Paid 120,000rp each.
First thing in the morning around sunrise, the duck man returns and lets the quacking ducks out of their overnight pen. The irrigator digs new channels and as paddies drain he fills others, the egg man collects duck eggs, they all stop for chats along the banks. Its such a peaceful time of the day.
Breakfast is delivered to our rooms and oh course mine was banana pancake/crepe with juice.
Drove up Monkey Forest Rd and had coffee at Café Wayan then over to Verona spa for Acupressure massage and razor scrap heel, 100,000rp plus 30,000rp. Walked into lunch at Hibiscus, opposite the soccer field. Drove up Jl Suweto to check out the scenery then u-turned too soon and came back into Ubud then left at the big statue roundabout and stopped along the way at Tegalallang. I bought a pair of brown-ish metal chooks (about 60cm high and 50,000rp each) and some handbags made from horizontal sticks, 30 and 25. Turned then continued on down, past the statue and at the end at the t-intersection turned left to Goa Gajah. We rinsed our faces under the ‘spesh-ee-arl' statue waters to achieve eternal youth and look at least 10 years younger. I felt an instant effect, if only coolness. We walked into the caves and checked to where the students once studied on the Bhuddist side, on left and Hindu side on right. We bought a few more carry bags and drove into TS hot and sweaty. I had a bath which was just what I needed.
Breakfast, banana crepes with banana juice on room 21 patio. Chris and Trish went walking and I met them at Café Wayan for coffee. Chris also shared yoghurt with mixed fruit. Across at Verona, Trish and I shared a room for acupressure massages which was painful for me. Cost 100,000rp for 60 mins then heel razor scrape, 30,000rp. Had lunch at Hibiscus which is owned by 3 Aussies (central Qld), took more than an hour. We drove up Jl Suweto to see the rice paddies, saw a snake on the road and back down then up Tegalallang and bought 2 metal chooks.
Thursday, I had French toast with mixed fruit and mixed juice. We left about 9.30 and headed south from Tegal Sari. We kept on the road until we had to veer left, although we wanted to go right. Possibly political rally/could have been temple ceremony. We passed the Bali Zoo then found the Bali Bird park and Reptile Park.
Bali Bird park and Reptile Park
We paid our us$21 entry, 271,000rp for entry to both parks. We watched the bird show, then Rilly migration film, checked out the caged birds, held an Iguana, stopped for water then into the Reptile park. We left around 1 and found Tropical Bale, which was delightful. Three others left and we were the only patrons. The service, décor and meals were outstanding. The rains came for 30 minutes or so, then cooler breeze. Chris and Trish paid for my lunch too. Total bill was 560,000rp. We each had choice of main and dessert. Firstly, breads were served, then lemon sorbet. I chose fresh fish, cooked two ways, with rice, then profiteroles and coffee. After the rain it got very humid. We stopped in Ubud to change money at 7900 and headed for the market. We purchased our tickets for the Kecak Fire Trance Dance for 50,000rp (au$6.33) I bought 4 cushion covers @ 25000 each, frangipani patterned stone candle holder for 50,000rp and a black beaded bag for Tam to match her black beaded jacket top, 50,000rp (although the top had only cost 30,000rp). We drove through Tegalallang, having missed the turn to Petulu and eventually turned into the Elephant Park road and had difficulty u-turning around. On the way downhill south, I stopped for 2 x 1 metre white Bali flags, 15,000rp. We found the turn to Petulu almost back at the statue and headed up to see the cranes nesting in the trees. Once again, only a few. Lots of the Balinese were dressed in ceremonial clothing, walking with offerings, in family groups. Back in Ubud we parked in Jl Suweto at Pura Batu Karu. Since we had 30 minutes or so to kill, we had coffee and brushcetta at Terazo (65,000rp). The kecak was terrific and we had front row seats. We walked back to the car and got to Tegal Sari after 9pm, feeling sweaty and ready for showers and bed. I showered, wrote then went to bed.
Left Ubud around 10. We had planned to Tibetan Sound massage (45mins for 100,000rp) at Spirit & Energy Healing Centre on the driveway out of Tegal Sari but decided to hit the road rather than wait for it to open at 10.30.We headed south and found plenty of signs to direct us to Sanur. Trish was keen to check out the beach with the possibility of staying there for a few days another time. We had coffee beachfront at Vila Shanti and I got to renew some friendships with staff. Visited Carrefours again as Trish wanted to replace her camera and last minute shopping to take home. As we drove along Jl Raya Kuta the prayers were leaving the Mosque and it felt like hundreds of thousands filled the roads, walking, on motor bikes or in cars. It was the busiest road I have ever driven on, but we made it through, albeit slowly. Arrived at Suriwathi after driving about 400kms, safely. Us three planned to share our room and we had a mattress made up on the floor. Chris chose to dine at Jimbaran Bay that evening but as it got later in the afternoon the clouds rolled in, no sunset and I asked many of the staff if they thought it could rain. We chose plan b and decided to join the drinkers at Breeze, to farewell Julie and Graham (and BarryW) and the skies opened up and it poured. Fortunately we chose plan b!
It was lovely to catch up with Sue and Tony again (tcoupe). I hope they enjoy a happy holiday for the next couple of weeks. Wish we could have spent more time together. Dennis C looked in good form and we chatted for a while. ‘Lucky' him being in Bali for the next 6 months or so.