JBR Bali August 15 - 30 2008
Part 3
So far in Bali, this is the busiest we have ever seen, given of course that children are out of school for 4 days around Galungan and many Indonesians were over from other islands due to their long weekend for Independence day.
Let me correct an earlier error...... internet is 6000rp per 30 minutes or part there of (eg 30secs into next 30 minutes and you pay 60 minutes.....) and its 3000rp to connect your own laptop via cable for 30 minures, at SuriWathi.
Another day of adventures
After daybreak, I wanted to go to the early morning Legian market on the corner of Melasti street and Legian. I like to add a few pair of knickers into the bag for the girls and their Mothers.
Julie came over and we three visited the Rotary sponsored school SD 3 Sobangan, to see our sponsor children. We got there about 10 and although the schools have been closed for Galungan for 4 days, many children were waiting, in school uniform. We found Tina, Desi and Desak, Made and Lodi now both at high school came too. Its so lovely seeing the children each visit and see how they have grown. We found Wendy's girl and gave her a bag of goodies too.
Children sat in groups outdoors singing happy sounding songs with their teachers. They laugh and carry on, what a joy!
Tina's Dad also came up to the school expecting us to be there but no Mum this time. We asked why and he said that her father had died on Galungan, motor bike accident and the cremation was in the afternoon. Would we like to come? Hmm, its so different Bali vs Australia regarding death and ceremonies. We said we would plan to. We noticed lots of the children have grown a lot in the 4 or so years that we have been visiting. We found Made, sponsored by Jess and Mark and took photos of him for them. Little Tina's sister has just started at the school and like quite a few, doesn't have a sponsor yet. Her Dad asked me to try and find a sponsor for her. I rang my friend in Australia who visited the school in March and said she was interested in sponsoring a child too. She said yes, so I told Tina's Dad the deed was done! He was understandably happy and relieved to know that they don't have to find the funds themselves. They are terribly poor farmers and their home indicates to us that there isn't much left to spread around.
Another group of sponsors arrived so we left. We had planned to see the I Gusti Ngurah War memorial site but our driver couldn't find the turn off. Too hard! We went to plan B (as you do in Bali) and called in to see Moira and David at Pacung Indah for lunch. They said that their business has also improved and there were lots of tourists there to enjoy buffet or a-la-carte lunch. We then headed back south to Sobangan and tried to find the cremation. We found young Made from the school and he drove ahead on his motor bike to show us the way (talk about being in the right place at the right time!). We stood to the back of the many locals, not wanting to intrude. Little Tina's Mum saw us and beaming , came over to greet us. I honestly think that by us being there, we added to the importance of the occasion. I think they also consider us extended family. I know they greatly appreciate our sponsorship. She took us to the area where the body was wrapped in the decorative structure ( just one body was being cremated). They unwrapped some of the body to at least display his head, then added offerings to the site then lit the 2 gas torches/burners. We looked around to see all happy faces. I explained to a cousin who acts as a tour guide, that in Australia many guests would be crying. He explained that in Bali, as the body is burned, the soul leaves the body and is free. If the soul sensed sadness and crying, it may turn around concerned and not be free, or its freedom delayed. We can learn so much from the Balinese and their beliefs. Salt is thrown on to the raging fire, to supposedly help the bones to burn to powder. We were proudly introduced to family members and those who could speak English thanked us for our sponsorship. The area is eternally grateful to the Rotary program and hope it continues (Noel and Geraldine and co, take a bow).
We didn't wait until the body was fully burned. The ash from the skull is filled into coconuts and released into the rivers which will find its way to the sea.
We headed back south and although Davey our driver suggested it would take 1.5 hours, we found the I Gusti Ngurah War memorial in the Marga area, about 10 minutes later. It is an amazing site with grave stones, all in lines, identical. I wonder why they have been represented/buried there rather than the usual cremation process? (Thanks Cracker for your report which prompted us to go see). We had expected the burials would have been from world war 2 but found headstones had dates from 1946, 1947 onwards. It was the war of Independence from the Dutch, 1945 - 1950. Ngurah Rai was the General.
Back on the track, we headed into busy Legian then later dinner at Bianca.
HULUs
The shops alongside Hulus were mostly open again by the end of the week, but Hulus is a shell of a building. (Waiting for insurance assessors??) Ceremonies were held at the Hindu shops prior to opening. Legian Cyber Café took no time to replace their cabling.
We saw the ‘older lady' on the back of a bike one evening, dressed to the nines (and tens and elevens) extremely made up, no doubt performing in the drag show later that evening (must have been last Friday).
Bali Beach Shack
Unfortunately on our second visit we have once again found the owners to be reserved and ‘cool'. They don't know us from a bar of soap. The restaurant itself looks so clean and inviting. We caught up with friends of friends and had a few drinks, no food this time. Hulu drag show is showing there twice nightly on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. I expect great for both businesses.
Lanai restaurant and Independence Day.
I have been keen to venture down Double Six end of Legian/Seminyak one Sunday evening. We went on Independence day and it was packed. We watched the Reggae drummers and they were fabulous. There was a competition to see who could get up a pole and collect the ‘treats' at the top. About 7 Balinese men had to stand on each others shoulders so the last man could reach the top. They tried a few days and slithered down the pole before any could make it to the top. At last one made it to the top and sat on top of the pole releasing the bags of goodies and dropping them to the ground. OHS would not have approved, nor could they had ever gained liability cover! Great fun and heaps of cheering locals.
Each of the beachfront restaurants were full and we got a table out front at Lanai. We had delicious meals and thoroughly enjoyed the night. We walked back along the paved beach path. Niksoma was jumping crazy with crowds of drinking and dancing patrons. The music was full bore! Cars were parked on the paved walkway from Kumala Pantai area to Padma. There was also a stage set up out front of the Mandira and we watched another Indonesian island cultural dance show.]
La Monde restaurant
We had uninspiring meals there in 2003 and haven't been back since. After glowing reports we ventured upstairs. Footy was on the telly and unobtrusive. My mixed seafood was well done and not worth the effort. Trevors sweet and sour fish was not anything like traditional either. Oh well, maybe we will try it again in another 5 years. The restaurant was full, so lots of others must have different opinions to us. We had first attempted to try Warung Yogya, but since it was full and the menu is probably better suited to lunch for us, we gave up waiting for a table and lucked out at La Monde.
Breeze restaurant
We like Breeze, Desak and crew are always lovely and warm and friendly. The food is consistent and very reasonably priced. Desak will arrange almost any meal for you. I love lobster and given a day or so notice Desak will buy from the market. I had a delicious lobster mornay(it was .7kg and we paid 160,000 - about $20). Another night I had snapper fillet with prawns on top and a creamy sauce, truly scrumptious, salad and chips( 50,000rp - about $6.40). The prawns in the avocado and prawn salad are white and very fresh, my favourite lunch. Desak will arrange babi guling feast for 8 or more for around 800,000rp.
There were often 30 or more people eating in the restaurant and boozing on the bar stools.
Exchange rate
Around the 8000rp to the AUD at first then dropped to 7800rp and a little below.
Bianca restaurant
Along Jl Padma almost opposite Jl Padma Utara, big screens, excellent service and delicious meals. The volume was down, but we could watch the Olympics on 2 screens and footy on the other. We enjoyed our meals and found Two Islands shiraz wine available. (240,000rp) (Why oh why is wine so expensive compared to the price of food?)
Hulus reopening
There is a sign out front of the derelict site that it will be reopening on the 29th August at Bali Beach Shack. I expect good for both businesses. Opens Fridays, Saturdays and Sunday
Bonito Spa
SuriWathi Hotel has built a new Massage centre alongside their pool. I expected that the pool area would be disadvantaged, but it makes it more private. I like it.
I tried a warm stone massage twice (85,000rp) and foot and leg massage for 30 minutes another (45000rp). I also had my eyebrows plucked at another sitting. There are 4 massage beds with curtains separating beds.
S & S
Suzie and Sammys beach bar was popular each time we visited. They now have at least 2 resident squirrels which come down to collect peanuts, either from the cooler box lid or from hand.
Sunsets were colourful, really lovely, just not quite the picture book ‘model'. S & S's children are often helping to serve drinks. You'd have to laugh if you know Trevor..... Sammy was calling his ‘gorgeous'. Hello my gorgeous, how are you my gorgeous! Brave man that Sammy is....
Brother David called down there one evening too.
We met Julie and John there a few times then wandered off for dinner after sunset. (Great to catch up with you both again). Smokey and Carol joined us too and Jules.
Safrudan called in with his better quality pearls. I bought a couple of necklaces. One is shades of browns and black with 3 strings in one, and another pink shade, single string with a dingle dangle hanging at front. The clasps are very easy to open and close.
We checked out the Bondi Surf rescue lifesavers who completed their filming and they were excellent ‘eye candy'! The Balinese life savers are still as handsome as ever too. They are thrilled to be on the series. I am looking forward to it starting next week.
Bali Bagus restaurant
After S & S one evening Julie and John, Peter(Smokey) and Carol and Trevor and I walked to Bali Bagus in Jl Padma Utara, a few shops from the back end of Posers. We all enjoyed delicious meals, staff (including the cheeky winker) and the prices were reasonable. I had mixed seafood mornay and it was really tasty.
Didi, Belinda and I had first tried it on Belindas last night, March 2007 and were not at all happy with the service, meals, timing. We were so pleased this time that they have improved on everything.
Wayan and friends
We used to go and enjoy the beef. Last few times, beef has been tough. Trevor and John ordered an eye fillet and us 3 girls (Julie, Julie and I) ordered grilled snapper fillet. There's was tasteless, our was superb. We had garlic and chillie sauce, yum. The fillet was really thick and too much for me to eat.
Warung Kartini
This family run warung is off Three Brothers lane, behind Three Brothers Hotel, around Sri Ratu. It has doubled in size since I went there last with Didi, Sharon, Ruth and Belinda. We ordered Nasi Goreng mixed seafood with satay sticks, Trevor has sweet and sour chicken with rice, one small beer, pineapple juice and aqua and the bill was 61,000rp.
Celebes
I called into Celebes hairdressing salon on Jl Padma Utara on our way back from Warung Kartini. Haris was available to cut my hair then and there. I didn't bother with a shampoo as I was planning to go straight back to the pool for a swim. Haris individually cut each strand of hair (or felt like he did) and the end result was shorter than I would have preferred but not to worry, it will have regrown in no time. Cost 66000rp. (same price if I'd had shampoo, conditioning then blow dry and gunked up). In hindsight, I should have had the works and if I got my hair wet and ruined in the pool, not to worry.
Some purchases.
Number 6 Bali bags 60,000rp, number 5 50,000rp
Bokasih small size, varying prices around 20,000 but 16000 in a village shop.
Balsem Lang, the hot one, 8000, but 4500 in village shop.
Local nappies are 4000rp, baby mosquito cover (like a covering for a cake) 35,000rp.
Plastic electric kettle, Carrefours, 33,000rp
Bananas 5000 per bunch of 10-ish, pineapples 2000, local market.
Local cakes at early morning market, 500rp each
6 sarongs in Double six and Ketuts husband had the fringed ends cut off and resewn up. A friend wanted these for her massage table. I paid 30000rp each then 5000rp each for hemming.
Metre high necklace holder from Wet Paint in Double six cost 200,000rp. I love it! (I have so many necklaces at home, it sure has been an issue to be able to untangle and see which precious model I should wear each day).
Unagi Handicraft, Wholesale and retail
If you drive past the front of the Kerobokan Prison and keep heading straight you will see Unagi on your right maybe a km or 2 from the prison. You will cross over about 4 intersecting roads. Its on Jl Teuku Umar/Marlboro, No 286 as others have said, they sell similar products to Geneva, its near new, cleaner and lighter. A girl follows you and will let you know all prices. I felt comfortable with their system. There's an upstairs area too. Its closed Sundays. Prices seemed similar to Geneva, give or take a few hundred Rp.
Yulz restaurant
I have read many reports on BTF about Yulz having the best beef in Bali. I ordered eye fillet, Trevor sirloin and Jules chicken. Our meals were superb and we have joined the Yulz for beef lovers group.
Take 2 - Japanese restaurant in Jl Padma
On our way out for dinner we stopped for a chat with Kermy and Jacqui. We had thought we would return to Wayan and Friends or Bali Bagus for dinner, but as we headed off, I kept hearing their comment that it's a great idea to try a new restaurant every night. Damn, I wished we hadn't tried the Japanese. We shared our meals and I didn't like one bit, the sliced heart/liver. Yuck! The fish and chicken were ok, but we wont return. When we entered the restaurant, all waiters and staff called out something, expect welcome. As future patrons entered they continued the traditional.
Kudeta restaurant
Jules, Trevor and I caught a taxi by 9 and went to Seminyak. Security is active at the entrances to Kudeta. Gee, they sure have changed the restaurants and grounds. The timbered area on the Kuta side (remember where we have sat, Sharon, Di, Lynne and Leonie???) is at least double in size with metal shades that can open and close depending on the weather. There are upstairs seats, couches and tables and the furniture is so creative. It looks spectacular! We had breakfast near the beach and thoroughly enjoyed the food, service and surrounds. The music is non intrusive. They do it well there. Our set breakfast of bacon, 2 eggs, mushrooms, tomato, baked beans and thick grainy toast was excellent. Fruit platter later followed by coffee. Cost 80,000 plus taxes.
Akun Bakar Cianjur, Denspasar
Murni, our friend who is grand daughter to the old King of East Bali, picked us up and drove us into Denpasar to her friend or relatives restaurant. It is reasonably new and large. They serve fried and grilled fish. Murni ordered for us all and we enjoyed spinach mix and cold cucumber mix with satay sauce. It was a delicious meal. We drove back thru Sanur checking out other family members hotels and properties. Always interesting to be with Murni. Lucky I had almost finished our packing as this all happening on our last day, so when we got back to Legian, I still had plenty of time to sort all of the last minute things out.
Checking in Garuda, 30th August.
Our flight was due to depart at 11.55pm to Melbourne. There was also a Jetstar heading for Melbourne, similar time and Garuda to Sydney. The airport had queues of people everywhere. Took us about an hour and half to get to immigrasi. There is a drink shop near gate 3 so we chose to sit on their chairs and ordered a coke zero and small Bintang, cost 71,000rp.
The flight left Bali about 12.15am and we slept until the lights went on and breakfast was served.
We landed about 7.15am, so 5 hour flight. We had pre-purchased our duty free so collected it quickly. The queue to go thru passport control was reasonably quick. Waited for our bags for 30 mins or more then queued for customs for an hour or so. Out of the airport by 9.00am.
I don't know if procedures have changed or its just different Jetstar vs garuda, but we didn't have the final patdown in the gate lounge and last check thru our carry on luggage. Just xray as we entered the gate and sat to wait for boarding. We noticed big Sam Kekovich also waiting. By the height and size of the man, he would have needed to travel business class. The tv makes him look smaller! We saw him again at the luggage carousel and he was friendly to all.
The leg room on Garuda was longer than Jetstar, or so it seemed. The tvs all worked but colour varied greatly between monitors.
No complaints from us.
Customs in Melbourne.
We didn't have any problems with the items we declared. Pure Sea Salt from East Bali, dark palm sugar in woven matting, palm sugar from Carrefours. Word of warning, cinnamon sticks are prohibited. The quills of the flowers are fine, which we on the tea light candle holders I'd bought at Unagi.
Post Bali thoughts
I love our toilet paper at home!
The mainly boys in Jl Sahadewa who sell the plaited leather wrist straps have much better manners these days. I didn't get sworn at or cursed at once! I expect all profits help their family as you never see any playing electronic games!
Lovely to see the Balinese kids having fun. Give them some plastic bags, a few sticks, roll of string and a coke can and they make themselves a kite.
We coincidently sat in seats 14a and 14b going to and from Bali.
Hang over cure
I had been told by others that Bokasih can be used as a miracle hangover cure. One morning 2 girls walked past our room and complained of feeling, ‘really bad' after heavy drinking the night before. I offered them 3 drops of Bokasih in a glass of water. They reported back following day that the potion worked quickly and well. They are converts! Should be mixed in warm water to disperse the Bokasih.