MY TRIP TO BALI
Rules for reading my JBR. Please appreciate that this is how I saw things while on my trip, another time, another occasion, things might have been different.
Day 1 Saturday August 11th.
On this trip to Bali I went with a school friend - we did matriculation together in 1971 and caught up again last year when I helped organise a reunion. After the Adelaide airport formalities we had our first holiday drink with a glass of champagne and then a few more wines on the plane to pass the time away. We went via Singapore which took about 71/2 hours and had a 90 mins break before taking the flight to Denpasar.
We landed in Denpasar at 9.30pm. After all those formalities we went out the doors to look for our driver, Gusti. I wish I had my camera with me as there were so many drivers waving their signs that I had to go along the line a couple of times until I saw my name. As soon as we got to Gusti's van, he offered us a bintang and then we went to our accommodation for the next 3 nights - Bloody Ron's Sanur Beach Villa (SBV).
I hadn't met Ron before from Sanur Beach Villas (SBV) but we had a few email exchanges re bookings and the odd question. Well, great welcome and great guy. He came dashing out, got his staff to take our luggage one direction and steered us to another. When we sat down, we basically had a bintang in one hand and a glass of red in another because he didn't know our preference. Liz was impressed, what an introduction for a Bali virgin. There was another guy with Ron (Ralph?) from Germany and as my parents were German I managed to speak a few words. I was very happy with my room, great outdoor bathroom, comfy bed, tv, fridge, air con.
Day 2 Sunday August 12th
Breakfast served to us by the pool, fruit juice, fruit and scrambled eggs, this was mostly organised by one of Ron's staff who I named James Bond or 007 (much easier to pronounce and he loved it). Took a bemo to go to the northern end of Sanur for a look and also to change some money. Late lunch at the Cat and Fiddle (1 beer and Nasi Goreng, tasty) then walked back to villa for a relaxing swim.
Taxied into Legian, and had a few drinks at S&S, watched the sunset, then went to the IndoNational for a meal, plus we had a cocktail followed by a bottle of Hatten's Rose. I've been to the IN twice before but I think I enjoyed my meal on the previous occasions a bit more, possibly because I ate there after a number of days in Bali and then enjoyed some aussie type food (unfortunately no time to go back). We then visited the Hula Club, some stunning looking performers, few more cocktails and back to Sanur. Poor Liz, wasn't quite prepared for the traffic, drivers and lack of 'western rules'.
Just a comment re the S&S and without introducing WW3. I suspect Sam and Suzie are doing very well with the S&S that I can't help thinking that annually or whenever that some other locals get the opportunity to do this. Irrespective, it was great meeting people from the BTF.
Day 3 Monday August 13th
We went for a 5km walk along the beach past some of the deluxe hotels fronting the beach however we like our accommodation, it has charm. Bought some supplies at Hardy's and decided to eat at one of the shops in the shopping complex (very cheap curry and delicious). Organised a sim card for my mobile, hadn't done that before and it was useful on the trip. Back to the SBV for a lazy afternoon by the pool, sleep, a few drinks, reading etc and then had dinner at a little café on the beach called Kesuma, plus a bottle of Hattens rose and then an early night. Oh, our pre ordered DVD's arrived during the day. The funny part was that I sent a spreadsheet with the 'want list' but also had a worksheet of 'what's at home'. The problem was they printed both sheets and delivered on both. Lucky some of the 'had' list was a bit old so they only duplicated on about 20 of which Liz took about half.
Day 4 Tuesday August 14th
I made friends with the SBV cat who joined us for brecky each day (thanks 007). Gusti picked us up at 9.00am and our first stop was the Ozone Café at Padang Bai for a drink which has some interesting sayings on the walls and the toilet (1 beer,well it was 11.00am). We also watched a funeral procession.
The next stop was Candi Dasa a very clean town on the coast, had lunch at Vincents and I took note of the place across the road which I ended up staying at towards the end of my trip. We then went back part of the way that we came as we were heading towards Gianyar. We passed lots of kids marching in preparation for their Independence Day on the 17th. We visited the Kesayan Ikang Papa orphanage which houses 26 children most of whom are mute but also there is a visually impaired child and one with facial disfigurement, BUT absolutely gorgeous kids. Gave them some of the clothes I got donated from work colleagues and plus I bought 50kg rice and 6 boxes of noodles and some sweets. Stayed with them for about an hour, what a pleasure being with these children.
Next leg was to get to Ubud where we stayed at Greenfields and had a room on the first floor with a balcony overlooking the rice fields. What did we do - well, we relaxed, more beers, found an Internet Café then dinner at an Indian restaurant a few doors away from the Greenfields, I think it was called Indian Delight. I'm not a regular Indian restaurant attendee although I love curries but I must say, I thoroughly enjoyed the chicken and cashews curry (a must to try). I loved the little containers that everything was served in, I looked out for them on the rest of the trip but didn't find any. Of course we had the obligatory bottle of wine with dinner.
Day 5 Wednesday August 15th
Breakfast in our room on the balcony. My god, not sleeping the best, I didn't know Liz was a snorer. In my time, I don't think I've ever been in a room with a person that snored so loud. Went to Monkey Forest in Ubud, walked around Ubud central, paths very rickety. Lunch at Ibu Oka and had babi guling or suckling pig (very yummy ) plus a couple of beers along the way. Visited the Ubud market and bought a handbag. Back to Greenfields, read and rested and a few bintangs. We went to Dirty Duck Diner for tea but we were disappointed (it's had some good write ups). The restaurant looked beautiful, I thought wow, this is going to be nice but didn't enjoy my meal. Tried Hattens chilled red this time. We went to a place next to Greenfields called Warung Enak for a night cap and ended up having a couple of cocktails, one was called a Mega cocktail, this is shared with two straws and cost us 115,000. Interesting place, worth a visit.
Day 6 Thursday August 16th
Up really early this morning, breakfast on the balcony at 7.15am, (noodles ) as we had to be at the cooking class by 8.00am at Casa Luna. We first went to the Ubud market to look at the fruit and veg section, very informative, the local produce including spices was explained to us, then onto Honeymoon Cottages for the lessons. Our 'Chef' reminded me of Kate Ceberano, she was very good.
Before we started cooking we tasted various foods and fruits, my god, we haven't even started the cooking lesson. All the ingredients plus preparation was explained to us , we pestled away grinding the spices to make the paste, we prepared several dishes including curry chicken, several salads, tofu fritters and then sat to a banquet accompanied by rice wine. Enjoyed this course.
Now an interesting point. I love interesting food and I can almost eat chillies like apples but I don't take too well to garlic. However I've noticed that wherever I travel in Asia eg Vietnam, Cambodia or Bali that I'm not sick when I've had garlic. The person who took us on the market tour told us that asian garlic is much weaker than western garlic and so when following asian recipes in Australia, that he recommends to only use about 1/3 of the recommended garlic, this was also confirmed by 'Kate Ceberano'.
We were so full afterwards went back to Greenfields just before in time before it absolutely poured with rain. Oh well, a beer (or two) on the balcony watching the rain, internet café plus a very light tea at Warung Enak, had a Western Australian wine (a red), I rthink we broke the bank and had an early night.
Day 7 Friday August 17th
Gusti picked us up early and our destination today was Lovina via a number of places. First stop was a coffee plantation where we tried several teas and coffees and then on to Kintamani. Some beautiful scenery along the way plus a few more parades, lots of stray dogs.
Drove to Singaraja, where we visited the Helen Flavell school of learning and gave them our donations (clothes, rice and sweets). Very polite children and great set up. As I understand, there's going to be a quiz night on 17 November in Adelaide (Adelaidians, look up the website and book a table). We then went on to Lovina, looked at one hotel but didn't feel comfortable with the place so ended up staying at the Rambuttan. I had been trying to book into a place for dinner which had a winery associated with it but didn't get any response to phone calls or text messages, so we decided to find it. It's called Pondok Indah (up the hills outside Lovina) and it was really great and had stunning views to the sea (didn't stay for dinner). We spent a few relaxing hours sampling the local fruit wine, my lychee wine tasted very good. Liz and Gusti decided to have some garlic bread which ended up being garlic with a bit of bread, gee, I'd hate to guess how many cloves were used. As I'm not a lover of garlic I noticed a salad on the menu which had tomato and basil in it, so I asked whether I could have toast with tomato and basil, but the poor girl said the owner was away and couldn't digress from the menu (what a loyal staff person).
We then headed back to the hotel for a swim, the weather is so much hotter up this part of Bali. Another cold beer then down to the beach to watch a religious ceremony, lots of beautiful costumes and lots of chanting. I wanted to try Kwizeen for tea so I asked a couple of girls where it was and how much it would cost to get there by taxi. They said they'd take us on their bikes, it wasn't too scary, in fact I rather liked it. The restaurant had a slight French feel, we had shrimps and spaghetti carbonara plus a cheese platter. Taxi back to hotel, fairly early night.
Day 8 Saturday August 18th
Woke up during the night, thinking my chinese bladder is working overtime but by the time I got to the loo, my last night's dinner vacated my mouth. Mmm, I thought it was a good meal, then the runs started (I'm mindful of too much information). My inexperience immediately thought of Bali Belly but the experienced expats from different places said it was dysentery. During the day, we lazed by the pool......... not far from my room. Decided to be a bit more energetic and walked to the beach, sat by a bar and had a beer but knew I should be resting. Liz was happy to gaze around so I headed off to bed. I would have liked to have slept but our room was adjacent to the basketball ring at Rambutans and all I heard was a constant thump, thump, thump. Should I say something because I really wasn't well but decided not to as I thought, well this is the home of one of Richard's daughters playing so she has a right to play at her home (but I wish they made sound proof pillows because I still could hear the sound through the pillow over my head). Liz cam back early evening and watched tv. Another wish for a sound proof pillow.....Liz, stop snoring.
Day 9 Sunday August 19th
Up reasonably early as Gusti was coming about 9ish. Decided to only have black tea, a couple of bananas and a piece of toast for brecky (clog up food!). I sat in the back of the van because I don't think it mattered what I saw although what I did see was great like the hills area, then Lake Bunyan and Lake Tamblingan. I can honestly say what fantastic toilets at Crackers Bar, I'm so grateful we visited the Bar when we did!!!!
The area is a bit cooler, climate wise so I was glad I hade a sweat shirt with me, a bit misty and a light drizzle. Arrived at Pachung Indah but they didn't have our booking registered but no dramas. We decided to drop our bags in our rooms and go to Jatiluwih to look at the terraced rice fields. Back to Pachung Indah and decided to have a sleep. We stayed in our room that night and decided for some more 'filler food' ala pizza. Liz drank one of the Hattens, I managed about an eighth of a glass but opted for a lemonade which I don't normally drink as I prefer tonic or soda water, for some strange reason I wanted something sugary. You guessed it, early night. Felt a bit sorry for Liz as I wasn't that socialable, but don't worry we've had a lot of fun times together in the past and she knew this would only be temporary (plus this sunday, the 16th Sept is her birthday, so I suppose there might be a champagne or three).
Day 10. Monday August 20th
Woke up feeling a bit better. It was a very misty morning, couldn't see a thing, very eerie. We had breakfast in the dining room and chatted to David and Moira, very friendly. They had just returned from a trip to OZ. It was quite moving when we saw their manager cry when she saw Moira - that has to be an indication of staff respect (us menopauasl sooks cried as well). When we left, we headed to the Bali Bird Park which is a real credit to the management of the Park. It was very well laid out, clean plus had an interesting collection of birds. We had a beer.... that has to be a good sign.
We then drove down to the outskirts of Denpasar, back to busy traffic after a few days of country roads, then to Tanah Lot (but a beer first at a café high atop a cliff, very reminiscent of the Apollos, Ocean Rd, Victoria).
Lots of market stalls at Tanah Lot, wandered around for a while then back to Sanur staying at SBV again, couldn't be bothered looking for something else, this place is easy, perfect relaxing life style that I like. After a swim we went to Made's Warung (near the Gazebo) for tea. I had Rijstafel and Liz had a curry, great service, enjoyed looking at all of the traffic and people going by (we had a front table). Of course we had a Hatten's wine and a beer (I'm over whatever), then we went to the Gazebo for a couple of cocktails and listened to the music. Back to the SBV and a few more drinks with Ron,
Day 11 Tuesday August 21st.
Lovely breakfast by the pool again and the cat knows I'm back. Liz was keen to see Kuta (remember she's a Bali virgin). We walked the streets and lanes and the beach, very busy, very noisy, but not hassled by traders as we thought we'd might be. We visited the memorial sight. We had our first beer at Hotel Bagus, bought some more DVD's and then had lunch at Poppies.
By now, we're hot and tired, so back to the villas and a last swim for Liz as she was leaving to go home the next morning. I decided to have some dental treatment and made an appointment with Dr Rudy at the Galleria, this was organised for the next day. We went to the Cat and Fiddle for tea and what a great night. I don't know, it does sound a bit irish in having a group of Balinese playing and singing irish music. I'm glad we went there. Another Hattens wine plus an irish coffee. We reminisced the last 11 days and also laughed that most of our money has supported the bar trade in Bali, oh well (aren't you girls proud of us!!!).
Day 12 Wednesday August 22nd.
Up early to say goodbye to Liz who was picked up at 6.30 am for her flight to Singapore. I wanted to try the Merciful Mother's in Touch in Sanur for a traditional massage with some natural therapies. They are located in Jl.Pantai Shindu. I had a reflexology massage with reiki, what can I say, it was great. Well, actually it was bloody painful but it's because of working on the lymphatic flow (probably not explaining this properly) but I felt wonderful after. Now, I do suffer from back problems and very oddly, I have trouble with my left buttock. I can often tell that my back is going to be wonky when that area starts to feel odd. By some strange way, after spending heaps of time massaging my feet, when she asked me to lie on my front, she went straight to my left buttock and worked on the flow in that area - I was dumb founded.
By this time I was running late for my dental appointment so Dayu from Merciful's Mother got her husband to drive me back to the villas so I can have a quick teeth clean and then he took me to the dentist. In addition, he also waited for me (2 hours), obviously I paid him for his time. I broke a tooth a few years ago and Dr Rudy gave me a few options which we methodically went through. I had a metal post and porcelain crown done (note: I may not have explained this properly). Dr Rudy first checked with an x-ray whether his proposal was feasible and it was. His assistant then proceeded to work on me and then gave me a temporary fill. I was getting a little agitated internally because I had thought that Dr Rudy was going to work on my teeth and I also wanted to ask a couple of other dental questions. Most times I'm not backward in coming forward but I didn't say anything. Besides all of that, the surgery is very clean and modern.
Back at the villas, had some beer with Ron and then organised a driver to take me to Candi Dasa the next day. I went out with Irma and Ron to Café Japun. I remembered that this was the first place I had dinner at in 2000, my, it has changed a bit. We had a great meal, entrée may have been a bit hot for Ron, I think that was the first time I found him speechless (and that's saying something).
Day 13 Thursday August 23rd
Off to Candi Dasa and stayed at a place called Dewi Gardens Bungalows which is opposite Vincents. I had no idea on what it was like, just took a punt. My 'deluxe' room was about 2.5 star but what I paid for it was commensurate with the standard (so I shouldn't complain). My accommodation faced the lake and I did spend quite a bit of time sitting on one of the benches and watched people go by. There was also a school across from the lake so often saw school kids running past or I could hear them sing at assembly. When I arrived I mentioned I had a bit of a sore back so next to no time I had the resident 'Masseuse' introduce herself. In fact I probably had most of the staff introduce themselves at some stage offering all sorts of services (all above board). I went for a walk and had a drink at the Lotus Seaview and got a lift back with their courtesy car. I had decided that I wanted to generally relax for a few days and do some reading. I like reading but don't get too much of an opportunity or when I do, I usually doze off. So wherever I went in Candi Dasa I took a book and read (when I wasn't distracted). I went to the masseuse and jesus a few expletives came out of my mouth. I'm not sure what mission she was on but I think she did an apprenticeship under Killer Kowalski (those who remember this wrestler). I was battered, in fact I avoided her like the plague although we did acknowledge each other when we passed by (I think she saw my bruises and I think she knew not to ask me how I was).
I decided to email Dr Rudy and tell him that I was surprised that he didn't work on my teeth a few days ago (hey, not saying anything got the better of me). Because I was leaving the next day after my next treatment I couldn't afford for anything to go wrong. Oh well, let's hope.
I had tea at Bali Bagus and decided to have a combination seafood curry but it was only when I got my meal that I realised that I ordered a fish curry which was quite tasty (took my book and read while I ate). Back to my room to do some reading. Unfortunately no chair in the room so I had to read in bed (which could have been a bit more comfy - stop grissling).
Day 14 Friday August 24rd
I had breakfast on my verandah and arranged with one of the staff to go to a nearby beach called Pasir Putih, a pretty white sand beach. Interesting little bike ride, it's about 6 km from Candi Dasa. I laid on one of the lounges associated with one of the shelters and enjoyed doing a bit of reading and drinking a beer. I think I was there for about 2 hours and decided to go back - thank god I did. I was absolutely frazzled from the sun (and it was only morning). After a shower and tidy up, I went to Vincents for lunch (I had a wiener sausage). I took my book, sat in a large wicker chair, had a couple of beers and stayed for about 3 hours. How peaceful was that. Vincent was very quite but is very, very popular at night. That night I had tea at Balissa, not quite my favourite meal. I decided to have prawns balinese style and it ended up being a half a dozen prawns in shell (obviously cooked with some spices) laid on a bed of rice. But. I had a great view while I had my meal (plus I read my book)
Day 15 Saturday August 25th
I had arranged with yet another staff person to do a day trip for 260,000. This was very enjoyable but I was back at 12.30, so I think somewhere their timing was out. Anyway, here's where I went. I went to Ujung (very impressive), Tirta Gangga (very impressive), Puri Agung Karangasem (OK) and then Tenganan (I was awe struck by this place). Tenganan is a village of Bali Aga people who are supposedly resistant to change. They are known for their handicraft 'kamben gringsing' using the double ikat technique. I know I decided not to go to the Amlapura market so perhaps I was meant to stay four hours to make up the time. My driver said he could take me to other places but that would cost extra. By the way, watch out when at Tirta Gangga as a guide comes up to you which I thought may have been in the entrance price, but this wasn't the case and so I paid him some money as well. Understandardly, there's entrance fee to all the above places mentioned. I asked the driver how much he would charge to take me back to Sanur the next day and it was higher than what I paid going to Candi Dasa so I said thanks but no thanks.
I decided to go to the Watergarden for lunch as I was curious to see what the place look like. I had a tasty spaghetti marinara and a very chatty waiter. Hey, I didn't mind, there's something different when you're travelling on your own. Walking back to Dewi Gardens Bunglaows, I bumped into my day trip driver who went down on his price to take me back to Sanur so he had a deal. Finished another book and started on the 3rd so wanted to read a bit more to see how many more were murdered in this delightful book. I went to Dewata Agung for a beer and then Raja for tea. Probably one of my worst meals, very greasy. I decided to go to Vincents for a night cap and it was packed (maybe the place to go at night in Candi Dasa). I had an irish coffee and read a local paper, it felt good. I realised that the last few days were very relaxing. I know some people might find it odd to read while on holidays but I think I did a good balance of travelling and relaxing (and I really needed it).
Day 16 Sunday August 26th
I was ready to go at 9am but no driver. That's OK, I chatted with some of the staff but by 9.30 I thought something was amiss. Well it was, the driver thought the booking was for the next day, so I got his brother. Back 'home', I don't know, there's something very comfy at Ron's villas, I felt very much at home. The Sanur Beach Villas wouldn't suit everybody just as the Hilton wouldn't suit everyone, but I was very much at home.
It didn't take long before Ron and I had a few beers at the beach and then we went to Balia Senia to watch Geelong vs Port Power. This is a direct telecast place (ie not delayed), in fact I text my partner to check what the score was and it was the same that what was on the screen. So hint, hint, if you want to see a direct telecast go to Balia Senia. Now, I went to port kindergarten, port primary, port high school so guess what team I was barracking for, and it didn't bother me that all the other burly men were supporting Geelong (thank god, port won with a last minute goal, well only 4 seconds left). And for the record, the roast chicken and roast vegie lunch was to die for. We then went to the S&S&S which was good but I think only expats were there. Time to go, so Ron and I went next door to Kesuma to order some food which they delivered back to the villas and had a nice night with Irma and Ron (and the cat). Both Irma and the cat are a delight. By the way, I told Ron that he reminds me of Uncle Fester, Angry Anderson or Kojak - people who've met Ron, what do you think?
Day 17 Monday August 27th
Last full day in Bali and off to Merciful Mother again for another fix. I wish I had gone there when we first arrived as I could have had a few more of these massages. Back to the dentist for my final work, and great news, Dr Rudy did the final work. As I was at the Gallerie, I decided to walk around there and then also have a final look around Kuta although an hour was enough for me. Oh dear, I left my gold chain at Merciful Mothers and so Dayu and her husband dropped it off so I arranged with Dayu's husband to take me to the airport the next morning. I had a quiet night, basically stayed in my room sorted out my luggage (as if there's a huge amount to sort out) and watched Monty Python's 'Meaning of Life'.
Day 18 Tuesday August 27th
007 prepared my breakfast although I didn't want anything big. I was so pleased that I confirmed my flight booking a few days before and also got my boarding passes so no line up at Denpasar. Pain, pain, pain, 12 hours wait in Singapore. I did a complimentary 2 hour trip which gave me an enough impression to maybe want to stay at Singapore on another trip.
Day 19 Wednesday August 28th
Back in Adelaide. As my plane seating was close to the exit door, I was one of the first off the plane (a rarity), was the first to pick up my duty free goods (prepaid), one of the first going through immigration in which I declared a wooden woven handbag, about the 10th person to collect their luggage and I'm off through customs. I don't find it hassly at all if I get stopped/asked/checked at customs, I look at this as someone doing their job, so I didn't find it a pain when I got asked to show my handbag. The only pain was the little twinge I felt when I lifted the bag on the counter. Anyway, a 5 second look gave the all clear and I was soon through the opening doors.
Where's Tom, he's forgotten about me, curse, curse curse, what am I going to so with all the software I bought him. And all these people looking at me looking as if they're saying, poor thing, she's been stood up. I decided to wait outside and then I saw him. His reason for being late.........I'm usually the last person coming out.
Since then
I had a few days home, arranging this, rearranging that. I haven't read my 3rd book since Bali/ Singapore. I also decided to log into work and tackle some of the millions of emails, then Monday 3rd September, I went to work and have had a few late nights catching up.
Thanks to all who replied to my questions while planning this trip as well as all the useful information.
Oh by the way, did you notice I hardly mentioned shopping. I bought DVD's (mostly preordered), a handbag and a bottle of perfume (god knows why?). But I still managed to go through heaps. The 'heaps' included the dental work, accommodation, driver, donations and supporting the bar trade.