Hi Everyone
Just returned from a great 28 days in Bali. Left 5th April and returned 3rd May from Brisbane, flying by Garuda. We are a family of four, this was our 6th trip and the kids 5th. Zoe is 16 this year and Tom 13. We all love Bali but mainly go for surfing and relaxing, and after several return trips to the same places, to visit friends.
Where we stayed:
Legian the first 2 days and stayed at the Melasti Beach Resort. We like MBR due to the old suite rooms, which we find great for the amount of space they give you. This year we were in a renovated one and they now have single beds in the front room that pull down from the wall, the bathrooms have been updated, with the addition of a separate shower that leaks all over the floor (that's bali for you!), and a bidet. And they have added an electric jug and tea and coffee etc. The staff were great as usual and couldn't do enough for you. We had a chat with the architect that was overseeing the renovations and he said that they were due to finish by the end of May, but maybe it would take a little longer. He thought that during June/July the resort had high numbers of booking which will be great as occupancy was pretty low while we were there for the first few days.
We return to the Melasti for our last five days and during the rest of the time we make our own arrangements, no prior bookings. During both of our stays at the Melasti we were the only people on the ground floor of the suites, and only on our return did we have one couple staying on the floor above. No problems finding a sun lounge at the pool either, it was also quiet at breakfast times, especially compared to April last year. The streets of Legian were also quiet and the Logi supermarket was empty every time we visited. It is really sad but despite everything you still are met with that great smile and plenty of jokes on the streets.
Following the first two days in Legian we hired a car and headed for Ulluwatu. We have visited for day trips many times, and have stayed at Mics, at Bingin, but have never stayed there. We checked out a few places: Thomas's Homestay on the cliff near Impossibles, 75,000rp per twin room, magnificent views but later found out the bathrooms only had swat loos. It was full when we enquired. Then we checked out Rocky Bungalows, closer to Padang, twin rooms rather plain and asking 200,000rp, but it did have a pool. We later spoke to a family who were staying there and they were paying 500,000rp for a family room, air-conditioned, TV, fridge and hot water.
We then went past the ulluwatu car park (where Blue point villas is on the cliff), to the street that leads to the old Ulluwatu steps (where the Ulluwatu Resort is) and found a great homestay called Sandat Mas Cottages. Checked out the rooms, twin rooms, really clean, outside bathroom. We all looked at each other and went yes this is us. Negotiated 75,000rp per room. We stayed for 6 nights and then returned for another 2 nights following a stay at Nusa Lembongan. The place is run by a lovely extended family. They all live next-door in the family compound and there are six kids, who all come for a visit during the day. Every night Laura, the wife of one of the brothers that run Sandat Mas, came and sat with us on the verandah to have a chat. She explained that the majority of the visitors are not interested in them but that they really liked us because we were. Many of the visitors are Brazilian, French and American, and she explained that not that many Australians stay. We had a great time during her visits, one night I painted the kids nails with polish and before a knew it Laura had her feet in front of me saying ‘me too'.
There are six rooms the same as the ones we stayed in, and also a double room that is air-conditioned and provides a much more luxury alternative, has TV and fridge, and is around 200,000rp per night. They are also nearing completion of a luxury villa that an American has built. It will be around 1.2million rp per night but cheaper by the week. It is two bedrooms with two great covered outdoor areas with open kitchen and a pool. Very private and nice furnishings and plenty of electrical equipment including digital screen TV. (Sandat Mas Cottages: Jl. Pantai Suluban/ Suluban Beach Street. Phone: 0361 769965.E Mail sandatmas @yahoo.com. Website: www .kanoaaquatics.com
We then headed for Nusa Lembongan. Boarded the Perama at 10.30 at Sanur. The price has gone up this year to 70,000rp, mostly due to the increased fuel costs. Had a smooth voyage both going and returning. Met some Canadians on the boat who were in Lembongan for the first time and asked if they could tag along to where we were staying. On arriving on the beach Tom took off along the beach, which believe me with a heavy pack and surfboard, is hard work due to the deep coral sand, we asked one of the guys to get us a boat. We had not told the staff at Puri Nusa we were coming, wanted to surprise them, so Tom wanted to be first. Next thing Kal, one of the staff is there. On questioning him as to how he knew he explained that the crew on the Perama had SMS'd him to say we were on board. You can't do a sneak attack on Lembongan.
We stayed at Puri Nusa for 12 days. The hotel is one of the last ones along the beach, past Agungs, Agus's and Lindas. It is directly out the front of the shipwreck break. The restaurant is good, staff are great and the rooms are basic but clean. A double during our stay was 50,000rp per night. They have a three-bed room and that was 75,000rp per night. We stay in the family bungalow that is at the back of the hotel. It suits our needs but is very basic but clean. Upstairs has a double bed and the staff bring in a mattress for Tom. Downstairs has a queen bed and the bathroom, which has a bath, shower and working toilet, cold water only. We pay a negotiated price but I think the going rate is 100,000rp per night. The Canadian couple that came with us had a look at the rooms and then went looking at other places, they were gone for a while and came back saying they would stay at Puri Nusa because it looked the best out of what was available. Contact Kal: mobile 081338793989. Sometimes the phone isn't working at Puri Nusa but Kal speaks good English and can organise everything for you.
What we did.
On the day after arriving Made the driver we use took us looking for surf. Ended up at the far end of Nusa Dua beach, in a small bay I think called Mushroom Rock? Hubby and Tom went for a surf and Zoe and I bought a drink and laid down to read and relax. One of the stall owners did a great job of keeping an eye on the Bintang level and we managed to come away with 4 sarongs and some jewellery. Then took Made to Legian snacks so he could try their Nasi Campaur, which hubbie reckons is the best in Bali, Made politely agreed. A quick trip to Bintang supermarket for the usual electric kettle, softdrinks and nibbles. Purchased a SIM card from the mobile phone shop around the corner of Bintang supermarket for 50,000rp.
While we were staying at Ulluwatu we drove down to Nusa Dua again for more surfing as the wind was on shore at Ulluwatu. Most of the time though the days were spent in a Warung on the cliff of Ulluwatu just above the cave. Tom and hubby surfed all day and we read, shopped from all the sellers, ate and drank. On low tide we went for some great swims in the cave, it is amazing how it changes with the tides, at high tide the cave can be nearly full of water and at low tide there are only shallow pools. One day we went to Dreamland and had a lovely day of relaxation. However we certainly were not meeting many Australian, everyone was French, Brazilian, Dutch, English and Japanese. We drove up to Pandang Bai for a day trip and found it to be extremely quiet. Decided that it was not somewhere we would like to stay, the homestays were all very crowded in together along the beach front road.
We bought a portable DVD player on the way to the airport and this proved to be a great idea. The kids were able to watch the DVD's that we bought in the room where there were no TV's and when there was a TV it works just like a normal DVD and plays through the TV.
On Lembongan we spent quite a lot of time lying around chatting to the staff and other visitors. We have come to know the staff well over the years and keep in contact with the owner during the year. Kal introduced us to his son, Putu, born 2 days after we left last year. Unfortunately he was a little scared of us and Kal explained we are the first westerners he has seen up close. We went on a great snorkelling trip with Johnos water taxi, Johno is a really funny guy and good to go with for the added entertainment value. We travelled around past Mushroom Beach, Dream Beach, around Ceningan island and across to Nusa Penida. The boats usually take you in the opposite direction because the way we went uses a lot more fuel so we paid Johno a slightly higher rate. It was good going this way as we had not seen these parts of the islands by water. We snorkelled at Gammit bay and as usual it did not disappoint. I feel sorry for the day trippers that only get to see the small amount of sea life off the pontoon. It is worth staying a few days just for a snorkelling trip to Nusa Penida. Johno then dropped us off along the Nusa Penida wall and you just let the current take you along, the variety of fish is great, including turtles. Back into the boat and across to outside the reef near the mangroves on Lembongan. This area was excellent, once again great fish but also giant clams.
One day we all hired bikes and drove around the island for a few hours, the kids have trail bikes at home and Tom gets to ride quite a lot during our time on Lembongan, the locals just lend him their bikes. Went for a few walks, one day to the mangroves where there is a small restaurant on the water and tourist shop, left with a sarong.
When we first arrived moral in general on the island was low. However while we were there things did start to get busier and the smiles returned. Still not that many Australians but some of the hotels were full for the first time this year. It was great to see Ketuts family who run Ketuts Warung busily painting the warung following a good night and a little spare money.
The staff at Puri Nusa were all doing it pretty hard so to try to cheer them up a bit, and say thanks for all they did for us, we put on dinner for them. We bought a kilo of squid and the girls cooked it with Balinese spices and served with rice and an eggplant type sambal. It was delicious and served 8 of us. Another night we arranged for Ketuts warung to cook up her great Tai food, enough to serve 18 people. We invited relatives of the Puri Nusa family, the girls from the restaurant next door and Ketut (the kids good friend). Ketut cooked Green Chicken curry, Chicken and cashews, Pad Tai, and fish in balinese spices. Puri Nusa provided the rice. The dinner was delicious and all the staff kept going back until it was all gone. Everyone had a great night.
We did have one small medical incident while over on Lembongan. Tom came off a wave and received a bad cut from the fin, it required 3 stiches. Kal phoned Nyeoman who works as the midwife in the local hospital and is the owner's sister. In fifteen minutes she arrives, has a look and declares that stiches are needed. The operation occurs on the lounge in the reception/restaurant area of the Puri Nusa. Tom gets me too video tape it, so he can watch later. She tells Tom he has to stay out of the surf for the next 3 days and then he can surf again. When she is finished she gives us a course of antibiotics and when I ask her how much, she tells me it is hard, Tom is Puri Nusa Family and I can pay her whatever I like. I give her 150,000rp and a pair of surgical scissors and lots of wound dressings. I think she was happier with the scissors than the money! I took his stitches out the day before we came home and it was nicely healed, great job. Tom also came down on the reef at Ulluwatu on his behind and received a nice big gash. First aid was attended by the girl, Made, who runs the warung- Lemon squeezed onto the cut to kill any coral. Yes Tom said it hurt! Betadine was then put on it and we kept it covered for a few days and it healed up no problems.
A few days before Anzac day a group of Aussies that we had met suggested we hold a ceremony on the Jungut Batu beach, 4 New Zealanders agreed to join in. So a group of 11 of us gathered on the beach prior to dawn. The boys had strung a rope on some bamboo and had the flags attached. They both worked, the flags were raised and we watched the flags in the slight breeze. One of the Aussies was appointed to say the ode and we had a minute silence. Then bali coffee and rum was served. Great start to the day.
Back in Legian we tended to spend the mornings around the pool. We drove to a few of the surf factory outlet and got a few bargains, and then drove to Batubalan to a couple of silver shops. The owner of the Puri Nusa, Made, lives at Batubalan and so we went to his home to see him and then he took us to one of his friends that has a silver shop nearby called Komang Adi. We went to Putra Silver as well and bought a reasonable amount at great prices, but prices have gone up since last year but still great (addresses etc listed below).
Restaurants:
None of us had a bad meal while in Bali. A couple of times the kids ordered something that was too spicy but that was all.
Legian:
Legian Snacks- Lunches mainly. We like the huge variety of food and the Nasi Campaur at 15,000rp is the best. Between 90,000 - 120,000 for 4 people including a few bali ciders.
Bamboo Corner- again lunches. Good prices and food. A few too many sellers of DVD's and massage oil. Between 90,000 - 120,000rp for 4.
Uncle Norms- Dinner. The first night we went received the warmest of welcomes from all the staff including Norm. had dinner for my birthday and the staff had organised a cake with iced name and age on it! A great birthday cocktail was presented and the staff all sang happy birthday in Indonesian . We all shared the cake, the restaurant was empty at this stage, but even the kitchen girls joined us. The food is good here. Most meals around 300,000rp for 4 but that usually included 2 cocktails, but my birthday dinner was only 250,000rp including the cake.
Billys bar and restaurant- Dinner and Drinks pre and post dinners elsewhere. This year we found out that Joey from Uncle Norms was working there. All the staff are fantastic, so funny and the girls all have great personalities. They played many games of pool with the kids. It was great to catch up with Joey. He is married to a Balinese girl and she is pregnant. He seems really happy. The food is great and the happy hour cocktails are good value. Around 300,000rp for 4 for a great meal including desserts and many Bintangs.
Rum Jungle Restaurant- Good to catch up with ketut who was managing the place last year. There is an Australian managing the restaurant now and he is working as staff. The food was really great and everyone had desert. We all played quite a few games of pool and had a great chat to Ketut, once again only people in the restaurant, 2 people came in at around 10.30 just for a drink. This was the only place we ate that had a tax on top of the cost- 10% so the bill was 350,000rp.
Ulluwatu:
Salins Warung- ate breakfast and lunch here. All the food is great, the kids reckoned that the banana smoothies were great. It is in a great spot, down towards the cave and overlooking the part of the cave where the surfers paddle out. Comfortable cane chairs with a great view. The total bill for whole day including breakfast was mainly below 200,000rp. The staff look after your things if you all go for swims and surfs and there are massage beds at the back of the warung.
YeYes- Between Padang and Ulluwatu. Absolutely delicious. We just had to keep going back. The food ranged from Indonesian to Indian curries, Tai, Pasta, Pizza and Steak, but the black rice pudding was great. All of our meals were under 200,000rp for the 4 of us.
Choncos- A Mexican restaurant just past Padang Inn. The food was nice and we had margaritas but he following morning also had the runs! Meal was 350,000rp.
Green Mango- On the hill before Padang Padang. Great views over Ulluwatu etc. Food was great and run by a nice family. Tom said it was the best Nasi Goreng in Bali! Between 100,00rp and 120,000rp.
Swell- Pastries here nice and the other food also good. Only stopped for a drink and snack with one nasi campaur. Cost 120,000rp for 4.
Nusa Lembongan:
We were very lazy and did not venture too far to find somewhere to eat but here is where we went. There are many good restaurants along the beach.
Puri Nusa- The restaurant at the Puri Nusa is good. We ate all of our breakfasts there and some lunches and dinners, as already mentioned we had two great meals with the staff. Reasonable prices.
Kanalua- This restaurant is next door to the Puri Nusa but is very quiet. The major trade is a boat of Japanese surfers that come over daily from Sanur. They have a surf and then come in to eat. At night there is hardly anyone there, and the food is really nice. Around 200,000rp for 4.
Ketuts Warung- We have been going to Ketuts for the last five years and we have seen the business go from thriving to struggling. Last year she was only just making it but when we arrived this year the whole family seemed really depressed. Her set Menu is all meals 6,000rp, and she cooks great tai at around 20,000rp per dish. Our dinner meals usually cost around 135,000rp for 5 (kids friend with us) and includes ice creams, plus an ice-cream for Ketuts grandson Putu. She has always been very popular with the surfers. During our stay we took many people to have dinner there, and every time the family were a little more happy. We would arrive and already half the big table would be full and Ketut would have a huge smile on her face. Business did pick up and hopefully will stay that way for a while. But it is certainly worth a visit especially for the chicken and cashew. To get there you go past Agungs and not as far as Agus's. There a few run down bungalows called Lembongan Bungalows and you will see a sign for ketuts Warung, and for a money changer and ice creams. Walk through the bungalows and you will see one path leading to the money changer (also Ketuts family) and another to Ketuts Warung, there is another sign over the path.
Agus's shipwreck bar: The menu is quite simple but nice food. Had a seafood bar b que one nught and that was delicious. Ate a lot of lunches here.
Surfers Café: This place has a gas fired pizza oven and the pizzas are great.
Café at the Mangroves: Extremely peaceful setting, right on the water. A few Indonesian dishes and drinks but while we were there thay were building a new kitchen and hope to expand.
Shopping:
Didn't do heaps of shopping as we have quite a lot of Bali stuff.
Sellers at ulluwatu- Bought some shell/bead jewellery 12 pieces 10,000rp per piece.
DVD's- Bought from a guy Danny at Ulluwatu. He arrives every day with a backpack and it is full of DVD's and CD's. First day we met him we said no not interested and he sat down to have a chat. Really nice guy 21, from lombok, married, wife from java and 5 months pregnant. I took a shine to him and we said OK show us some DVD's. Now sitting in a lovely location with a Bintang is definitely the way to buy DVD's. On the first day we bought 90. Tried some of them on the portable DVD and Danny gladly returned any that were not working. Subsequent days we bought another 90. When we returned to Legian we phoned Danny and he came and met us at the hotel and showed us the way to his boss's shop. Walked in to a shop selling children's toys and through a door at the back of the shop and up some stairs to a room full of DVD's and lots of staff busily packing new DVD's. Spent a few hours buying just a few more and we paid 6,500rp per DVD of which Danny gets 1,500 per DVD. Also bought a few DVD cases at 25,000rp. Dannys mobile is 081933017742
Silver- Putra Silver is on the way to Ubud at Batubalan. It is a two storey white building and there is a big sign. It is on the right as you are heading to Ubud. We go there every year and you can not beat the prices. Examples of prices, little stud earrings with a stone 6,500 rp, Silver fish skeleton earrings 31,000rp, Hoop earrings 16,000rp, Leaf earrings 32,000, chunky silver ring with blue stone 28,500.
Then we went to mades friend- Komang Adi, Br. Tangsub, Celuk. Phone 0361 298236. Bought a few chunky rings both 30,000rp, a turtle brooch with mother of pearl 40,000rp, a silver small skull 20,000rp and a pendant in Frangipani shape and silver and mother of pearl 40,000rp.
Geneva- Bought a few extra placemats, some of the wooden bowls that collapse down flat, incense holders, candle holders, skirt sarongs, wooden masks and spent 200,000rp.
Hair extensions- Zoe bartered with the girl at Jarakarta and because the boss was away agreed to 150,000rp, great job as well.
Transport:
We always drive and have never had problems. This year we hired and paid for the car for 10 days. Paid 140,000rp per day, which is top price, but with full insurance and a 300 us dollar excess. They agreed to meet us at Sanur when we were ready to go to Lembongan and then when we returned we phoned them and they brought the car back. Nothing was any trouble. Have used this mob every year for the last 6 years. Sari Bunga Wangi, just behind bamboo corner restaurant. 0361 751230
Drivers- we use Made Ariasa 08155758697, he used to work for Melasti but is now out the front of Melasti. Great guy with a dry sense of humour. Also use his brother when Made is busy Wayan Bagia 08123659383. We SMS'd Made from home and he met us at the airport.
Moneychanger: Used this place on Legian St and they are good. All money is counted and they do not touch it after it is counted. Good rates as well, evertime I was in there heaps of Balinese were also changing money. Pt Artha Giri Kencana, Jl Legian Tengah 420. Phone 754083
We had a great time and the four weeks went so fast, maybe 6 weeks next year, or a return trip this year?????? And of course arrival in Brisbane made us realise we were back in Australia when we met quite a few rude staff at the Airport, no smiling faces there. Hopefully tourism will pick up, I can honestly say we never once thought we were not safe. Hope someone gets some useful info, happy to answer any questions.
Shaz