We arranged transport from Candi Dasa to Pemuteran (pronounced Per - moo - t (as in tile) - ran) with No Problem Transport - we agreed on 350000 - knowing it was a long way and appreciating that our driver had to then get back to CD. We left CD at 9.15am, had a brief stop at Yeh Saneh to look at the baths and got to Lovina at 12.20pm where we stopped for an hour for lunch. It took another hour to get from Lovina to the hotel we had pre-booked - the Pondok Sari.
Pemuteram was a new area for us and we were keen to check it out. The setting is dramatic with high mountains behind the village - it is very low key with the three main hotels (Taman Sari, Pondok Sari and Taman Selini) set virtually next to each other on the beachfront - though the entrances are further apart on the road. We passed the Matahari on the way in (and apologies to anyone who likes it/is connected with it) - but I'm afraid our impression of this place from the outside was that it was just so far up itself it couldn't be taken seriously. Briefly - the finest piece of road paving in all of Bali with kerbs and pavement - just along in front of it - 40kph speed limit signs,' no horns' signs and plants on the waste ground across the main road from its front gate - puh-leese - it was like a little bit of Nusa Dua transplanted.
Arguably, Pemuteram could possibly handle a tiny bit more tourist infrastructure to make visitors less dependent on the 3 main hotels - there were some small local warungs spread out along the main road, and several local shops where essential supplies could be bought - again spread out plus a money changer and also the internet café at Jubawa Homestay
PONDOK SARI where we stayed had recently had its associated dive operator change to a well known German company Werner Lau and the centre, hotel and resort had featured in an article in a popular German diving magazine. As a result, the hotel was just about full (22 rooms) - with almost exclusively German guests. This was not a problem to us and all seemed very pleasant, but the language difference made it hard to exchange more than pleasantries - except for one young couple we got to know fairly well through diving who had a good grasp of English.
Briefly Pondok Sari is a good hotel - that with a little effort could be a great hotel - but then I guess they would increase the rates!! We paid US $40 for an a/c bungalow with a gorgeous outdoor bathroom (I loved the smooth flat grey/black stones that made up the floor of the huge shower section) incl a good breakfast and service and tax. The light levels in the room were very low and we missed not having a small fridge (to keep bits and pieces of fruit/mixer drinks etc in) but on the whole it was very comfortable. The grounds again were gorgeous - gardening must be so easy up there, beautiful lawns, lots of shade trees and many feature plants, with pairs of 'semi-detached' cottages situated very privately around.
They had a spa which I didn't try - very expensive compared with down south, a beautiful looking pool - that unfortunately had no shade and dark slate tiles, - so the water got so hot it was almost unpleasant to get into, and a pavilion restaurant that overlooked a big lily pool and then down to the beach. The restaurant was fine for breakfast although the staff were not as friendly as we come to expect in Bali. We wondered perhaps whether continuous exposure to German guests without much English conversation had meant they had lost the knack of friendly exchanges?
We felt, that the hotel could benefit from somewhere other than the restaurant to sit around and have a drink and relax
We weren't over impressed with the lunch and dinner menus there and service was very slow as the restaurant was usually just about full, but with two great options either side - we felt we had a good compromise - stay where we were and eat out! Food generally was a bit more expensive than down south.
The beach is not too wide, it's black sand and backed by wonderful big trees for plenty of shade unfortunately while we were there at least, there was a fair bit of rubbish in the water especially at low tide - but it didn't stop us swimming in it. Turn right out of Pondok Sari, and along the beach past Taman Selini and Reef Seen (diving, turtle hatchery and horse riding) was the local fishing village - very poor looking, but with the boats pulled up on the beach and friendly locals a very interesting place to stroll through
Turn left out of Pondok Sari and almost immediately you are at Taman Sari - which has the artificial coral reef project right outside - literally only 20 feet or so off the beach. Initially when you first start snorkelling on it, its hard to ignore the ugliness of the giant metal structures that have been sunk for the new coral to grow on and the masses of wire that brings the electrical current out to stimulate the growth. After a little while though, the amazing amount of coral regrowth - especially on the older original structures and the fascinating fish life encourages you to ignore the 'artificialness' of it all. Visibility seems to vary and certainly while we were there it was never even vaguely close to viz at Gili T - but it was still certainly worthwhile.
At the end of each day, the beach becomes a playground for the local kids - football, skipping, high jump over a length of rope, splashing around in the water - some with the lid of a polystyrene vegetable box as a body board - it was a wonderful time to be down there.
We ate at both Taman Selini and Taman Sari and I took the time to have a look at them both.
TAMAN SELINI is exquisite - real boutique style. All 11 individual a/c cottages are officially the same - though I was told that looking from the beach - those on the right hand side had been built initially (in 1997) and were a little larger than those on the left hand side that were built a year later and were slightly smaller inside - These though seemed to all have a large day bed - complete with white mossie net and two comfy chairs, a settee and a small table on each terrace. The older ones seemed to have just a single day bed and only 2 chairs plus a table . They all had pull down rattan blinds for privacy/shade too. I thought they were good value at US $60
Decoration was very stylish - cream/yellow walls, lightweight 4 poster bed with wispy mossie net and white quilted covers. Outdoor bathrooms were lovely too - but even here there was no fridge in the room. . The pool was a simple rectangular one, reasonable size - that was well situated very close to the beach with attractive teak table settings and loungers. The restaurant (another pavilion style) was to the left side - looking out on two sides to the beach and on the other two, to the garden and pool. The food was great - the Greek influence making it just that little bit different and fabulous dessert options - only slight downer was they charged the full 21% service and tax. Guests here seemed quite sparse, those we spoke to were from Britain and the US
Dinner - eg 1 hummus (served with gorgeous warm herbed Turkish bread triangles) that we shared as a starter, a Ceasar Salad, a seafood kebab, a chocolate mousse and a cream caramel - with a large Bintang - incl the 21% - 179685,
TAMAN SARI - just a warning - if you are approaching this hotel from the road - don't be put off - the entrance is strange - down a pretty long unmade narrow laneway from the main road, with a mix of OK but also some pretty scruffy local houses and lots of farm animals.
This hotel has much more open grounds with a fair amount of grass and a wider variety of accommodation than the other two hotels - it also seemed to be more 'happening' with a quite a lot of guests from a mix of countries. - including the US, Britain, New Zealand and Australia. There were a few kids here too.
Due to their occupancy, we only had the chance to look at 1 standard of room - this was a deluxe garden view (2nd level up with a/c - selling at US $50) It was bright and airy with another attractive outdoor bathroom - couldn't say the green bedspread did a lot for me - but the 4 poster bed with a lightweight white mossie net was still very pretty. I really liked the L shaped padded bench that went around part of two walls and made a great area to lounge inside. This was the only place with the option of a mini bar/fridge - but you have to go up to a Junior Suite (a/c, ocean view - US $80)to get one
The pool was down by the beach again and a good size free form. The restaurant - yet another open sided pavilion had a Thai touch and again food was great here - one thing I liked about this hotel was the number of big tables with benches set up under the trees at the edge of the beach - you could have meals/drinks served here but also sit and play games, read etc
They had a spa where they were much more entrepreneurial - to get business - all basic treatments were half price - making a 1 hour Bali massage 60000 and a pedicure or manicure for an hour - 50000. The massage was great - we both had one together. They had a small open sided pavilion close to the pool and beach - to do the hands and feet - and the pedicure I had was great - the nail polish is still more or less intact nearly three and a half weeks later!!!!
Dinner here eg - a mixed basket of Thai entrees, a mie goreng, a Thai prawn dish, a dessert and 2 large Bintangs - incl 15% - 167900
We also had a look at the Jumbawa Homestay - about 10 mins on a pushbike along the main road from Pondok Sari - and a short walk to the beach. They have the only apparent internet service in the area and a pleasant café. They have two styles of accommodation - both very new, clean and fresh with good bathrooms - behind the main building are 6 bungalows and above the café 2 (I think - my husband went up there while I was internetting) rooms. Mic has a lot of info on her site about this place - no pool and on a fairly busy main road - but well priced at officially 150000 for fan cooled and 200000 for a/c They quoted these rates to us including breakfast and internet access
Our main reason for going to Permuteran was for my husband to dive - but this is long enough already and as I need his input I'll make that my final JBR - coming up next.