Day 8 Amed
Got up this morning and wandered up the lane from Rambutan and tried out an omelets as Restaurant Barcelona, as my gut was now sending me a warning about too much spicy tucker which I wasn't game to ignore! Ill spare you the details! Excellent breakfast with fresh mixed juice for all of 18,000R. Made was waiting for me back at Reception so after loading up only one bag this time, plus the striped bag for the quilt we were off to Amed. The trip took us through Singaraja, main city in north Bali (reminded me of Denpasar) and along the coast line to Dancing Dragon in Amed, past picturesque villages and black sand beaches lined with pradhus. When I look back at my 400 digital photos I can see clear blue crystal waters, colourful pradhus, temples and villages with the cocks lined up in their cages and the many temples with bamboo decorations, as many ceremonies seemed to be happening soon. One thing I did notice this trip in many of the smaller temples near family compounds alongside the road, instead of thatch there seemed to be a few with corrugated iron roofing? a sign of the times?
Id chosen the Dancing Dragon cottages to stay at whilst in Amed area, after reading Cracker and Raes account off one of the Bali forums about 12 months ago---I was not disappointed nor do I think I will try to surpass Crackers literary skill in describing the place. The place appears to be fairly new, designed around feng shui principles with a magnificent 6 or 8 sided conference centre being opened in Sept 04 adjacent to the cottages which will allow the owners (an American feng-shui expert and Balinese husband) to offer full feng shui seminars in Bali.
My garden view cottage was at the top of the property, and was a blissful fan cooled, tiled room with immaculate bathroom. No TV, nor fridge. Verandah outside had two chairs and table. I'm no expert on feng-shui but I did feel very relaxed and slept extremely well the whole time I was there so maybe there's something to it? There were only another couple staying here at the 12 cottage property, and I must admit I saw very few other tourists along the Amed- Lipah strip over the next two days. Mind you, this tourist was not out at night so its possible they were all out snorkeling and diving during the day.
The pool and restaurant are at the front of the property on the oceanfront, which made for wonderful dining and relaxing. The beach itself is quite rocky, not a real beach in the Australian sense. The staff were extremely friendly and helpful, and I liked the managements idea of having a tipping box at Reception to be shared with all the staff as so many of them work behind the scenes. It was also the only property, which gave guests the option of not having sheets, and towels changed daily unless requested (in order to reduce environmental affects).
Dancing Dragon Cottages, Bunutan, Amed are situated on the hilly areas between the two main beach village (Lipah and Jemeluk). After a swim in the pool and a lunch of chicken hamburger and bintang (50,000R) I headed off down the hill towards Lipah to find the Internet café.
After a frustrating session using email as messenger not available, I wandered back up the hill to the Dancing Dragon cottages.
On one side of the road you have several hotels in wonderful spots overlooking the water, and on the other the soaring mountain landscapes. When you look carefully you can terraced hills going up the side of the mountains dotted with houses here and there that villagers are eeking out a living. Made me glad I was going back to a desk job eventually.
This area is renowned for excellent snorkeling and diving, and the hilly road along the oceanside, fringed by mountain ranges of Mt Agung. Amed is not blessed with taxis, although if you go out walking as I did each day you will get still get the inevitable 'transport, transport' called out to you by numerous passing drivers and bike riders.
I decided to eat in at night rather than hassle with transport. No complaints about the food at all had a wonderful dinner of chicken and cashew nuts with chilli (40,000R and two orange juices with arak (40,000R) before heading back to my room.
Day 9 Amed
After a breakfast of nasi goreng and mixed fruit juice and tea (15,000R) it was time to explore in the opposite direction. . I headed off, in particular looking for the Santai Hotel which Kay and David had friends there. . I certainly got my exercise, and a good work out by the time I found the Santai Hotel. Luckily Kumong Madong was there ( he's a duty manager, and a driver) so I introduced myself and we had a chat. I had a quick look around the Santai Hotel I think it would be another place worth visiting on another visit. Kim his girlfriend wasn't there .Kym and Karen had built the Santai before selling it last year when other partners decided to put it on the market. Kumong and Kym would later come around that night after 8pm where we retired to the hotel next door ( Wawa-Wewe ) as DD Cottages had closed up their resuraunt for the night. We had a long chat about business in Bali and the cultural differences they have experienced. Kym and Kumong are hoping to built another hotel soon and their plans sound wonderful- I hope I get to see the fruition of their dreams.
At the Divers Café I decided enough walking, and stopped to take some photos. There were two sweet little girls armed with their hand woven baskets with salt asking for me to buy so parted with 10,000R. Sat and chatted with them for a while and gave them some tennis balls I had in my backpack. I had a bintang, and a chat with the waiter (they love to practice their English on you! Always apologizing when its not so good I made him listen to some of my bad Indonesian out of my phrase book) and then paid a local to drop me back at the hotel for 20,000R. More relaxing by the pool after a lunch of gado gado ( 30,000R) and another bintang, I thought I had better have my first massage by the pool (50,000R) Boy that lady was little but she knew how to make those fingers walk on your body. Nothing like lying by the water in the sun having a massage I can see why so many get addicted. My skin felt so gooood afterwards. Later in the afternoon I wandered back to Lipah and had another look at the beach and some of the accommodation Bayu Cottages looked really nice as its set up on the hill overlooking the beach with magnificent views and an infinity type pool. This area, along with Jemeluk has the advantage perhaps over the Dancing Dragon in that there was a cluster of other accommodation and little warungs (if you were on your own or wishing to be sociable without having to get transport). There were a few touts around ( mostly selling diving and snorkeling trips) but no one was overbearing or annoying, and most of the locals smiled at you and were happy just to chat. I was able to sit and watch one Balinese working on carving out a pradhu from a log of wood by the beach, although later in the week we'd drive by a group using fiberglass, so maybe technology may be inching its way in where money available.
Again no energy to go out and about so another dinner at DD, chicken curry and rice plus an arak and Orange juice (60,000R).
I enjoyed my stay in Amed but its best suited to those that are seeking solitude or whom have a group of friends or who like snorkelling and diving. I have absolutely no regrets about spending time there and loved the Dancing Dragon and the country side around Amed. Next visit will be with friends ( rent a crowd)
Next - Day 10 Onto Candi Dasa