Recently back from Bali and had a few new experiences.
The first was the wedding of the only son of our friend Wayan*. We've been to various temple and family ceremonies over the years but this was our first wedding. The families are both Ksatria but the bride's family are royalty from a village near Ubud. The first day we went (and there were several days of functions but we only went to two) was a ceremony at her family compound - and an impressive home it was, with numerous brick and stone buildings decorated with intricate carving, around a pleasant garden; and with a particularly large and ornate family temple. The bride was stunningly beautiful and her retinue of female attendants were gorgeous. Especially the one who flirted with me! The buffet was delicious and everyone was welcoming. The second day was the actual wedding ceremony, at the groom's family compound. Wayan, not to be outdone by the in-laws, had his entry gate completely covered in flowers, with further floral decorations throughout the compound; two gamelans, alternating with a duet singing in traditional Sanskrit; and served the food (enak sekali) on fine china, rather than woven palm dishes, from which we had eaten the previous day. Part of the ceremony involved the bride harvesting, preparing and cooking a meal for her groom, with all the guests looking on approvingly: everything had to be done just so, or she would do it again. Again we ate well and were made to feel very welcome.
(*Clearly, Wayan is not his real name)
We next went to Ubud, staying initially at Alam Shanti in Nyuh Kuning, our favourite hotel anywhere. I had heard good things about Locavore in Jl Dewi Sita and wanted to eat there. I rang to book dinner almost as soon as we arrived, only to be told they were booked out for two weeks, longer than we were to be there. I enquired about lunch, and they could accommodate us a few days later. However, on the day, unusually for me, I had tummy trouble (to use the proper medical term) and rang to cancel. On the off chance, I asked if they had any dinner vacancies over the next week and, yes, we could come on Monday evening. 'But only in front of kitchen'. I accepted. Well, revelation - this was the best seat in the best restaurant in Bali! We were seated at a bar which ran along the front of the kitchen. Not only was it entertaining to watch the working of the nine chefs, sous-chefs and hands right in front of us (all smooth flow and co-operation, no Gordon f** Ramsay) but each course was presented, with a brief description, by the person who made it. And while each of the seven courses was delicious, the nine(!) amuses-bouche which preceded were also sensational.
Alam Shanti was unable to accommodate us for the whole of our time in Ubud and I had looked around online before we came, to find something else. We had previously visited the Threads of Life gallery in Jl Kajeng a couple of times and were aware there was a homestay above the gallery, but I discovered the owners of the gallery had a pair of villas, two century-old Javanese wooden houses, which had been transported to Petulu and rebuilt as Umajati Retreat. I took a punt. Lucky again! Sorry, Alam Shanti, still love you but we now have a new favourite home away from. Lovely building, friendly staff (of course), beautiful gardens (including a garden of dye plants), privacy, bird and frog serenades, shared lap pool. And the remarkable owners, William Ingram and Jean Howe - knowledgeable, helpful, informative and impressive people. We'll be back!