Not being a regular visitor to Bali, I was intrigued to see how much different Bali would be from my last visit in Nov. 2007. Surprisingly I didn't notice a "wholesale" change from the point of an occasional visitor. Certainly this time, and at this time of year, it was pretty quiet on the streets, there was a lot of roadworks going on in the streets of Kuta and Legian, as well as quite a bit out to Sanur and Candi Dasa. The industries along the main roads seemed to have plenty of stock on display but it appeared that no-one was buying much as there wasn't much activity to be seen. There was obvious progress to be seen in and around Kuta and in particular along the beach road with the new "beachwalk" and Pullmans and also the wall along the beach separating the retail and hotel scenes from easy access to the beach. A taxi driver told me the wall had been built for the benefit of the Turtles but, I have to admit, I took that pearl onboard with some scepticism. I would appreciate any information in that direction.
With the amount of change that has taken place along the beach road it is obvious that a number of establishments of some emotional value have been wiped out. I remember fondly the Bali Sahid Hotel, where we spent our first holiday in Bali, but is now a memory. Seeing a lot of rather large holes in the ground getting a lot of attention from workers both day and night, suggests that the changes will be more than noticeable when 4 of us return next year. Both the Pullman and Beachwalk are impressive and imposing but I can't help but wonder whether progress is so desirable when you have to obliterate history to achieve it.
As I tend to do a lot of walking all day, in an effort to make sure I'm buggered enough to sleep when I finally get back to the hotel, I did think that the pollution was very much worse at ground level and thought that the vendors and families who spend all day squatting outside their shops must be breathing in vast amounts of fumes that must give them incredible respiratory problems sooner if not later. I was so choked up myself at times that I kept returning to the sanctuary of the bigger stores and shopping centres for some air-conditioned breathing. I hired a driver for the day to re-visit Sanur and Candi Dasa and to get out of town for some fresh air, but unfoftunately the ai-con. in his car was only sucking in the fumes from the many diesel trucks that invariably ended up leading our way, the foul air was coming straight into our faces and I did not get much relief until reaching the beach.
Speaking of the beach, I visited S&S bar on a couple of nights and was fortunate enough to meet some "faces" from the BTF. Among which were Didiaust, Hi Di! Smudge I met again , having been introduced in 2007, Fordfamilyinc, as well as some others but I can't remember their I.Ds. I also met other forumites on my "walkies" as I tend to try to start up conversations in shops, restaurants, or in fact with anybody who looks like they might be on the Forum. I met "Traveller" at the Bakung Sari Hotel and many other people and couples who follow the Forum, love the Forum, but don't post. Almost without exception, all agree that the Forum is a "must visit" for all Bali-bound tourists.
Most memorable person I met on this trip would have to be Stan from near Maitland, N.S.W. Stan and his wife Anne have been coming to Bali twice a year for many years, in March for Stan's birthday and then again in Sept. (I think he said) for Anne's. Unnfortunately Stan lost Anne last year and he thought it would be very hard to face all her Bali friends with the news and was not convinced about coming again.Fortunately for Stan, who is now 90 years old and still pretty mobile, his nephews packed him up and brought him over to stay at the BSH which he and Anne have always enjoyed, (He was offered better if he wanted by his nephews who stay elsewhere), Stan could be found most days sitting outside his room, saying hello to everyone who walked past or laying down in his room listening to his favourite "old tme" music. He would tear-up and wring his hands whenever we spoke of his life with Anne but he seemed pleased to talk about her.He said he would be happy to "go" now to be with Anne but I told him the longer he lived the more he could honour her. I think he saw the truth in that.
Best night in Bali, going with Stan up the road to Jesen's for a Tuna steak and a sing-song with the 2 guitarists who appear there on Monday and Friday (I think). They were great and they do requests and Stan was asking for all of Anne's favourites. Stan and Anne used to go to Jesen's all the time for their bi-weekly sing-along. I was requesting some of my favourites as well and we were both singing our heads off for over an hour. After this Stan walked behind me, with his torch, and we went back to the hotel and sat for a while and talked about "The old days". Great night. More later. Billthefencer