Well it's not quite JUST back, but more of a not back for too long report.
We flew Virgin as it's the only direct flight that we can get from Adelaide. They used to leave at 9.30 ish, but have changed that to 12.20 now, which felt like a bit of a waste of time to me, we were ready the night before and on my way TOOOO my holiday, I like to get an early start. That said, the flight left on time and arrived about 10 mins early. I had been a bit concerned about the passage through Immigration and Customs. We've had some very long waits in that hall, so much so that I considered paying for the service that I'd seen advertised on BTF. So glad we didn't - it was our quickest passage through ever, we even had to wait for our luggage - I don't think that's ever happened to us before. We were out and looking for our driver in less than half an hour.
This was our 13th trip to Bali and although we've always visited Ubud for a day trip, we had never actually stayed there as I'd decided to take some long service leave so that we could extend our trip this time, we decided to have a week in Ubud first. We stayed at the Alam Shanti, which was just lovely. The staff (as in every place I've ever stayed in Bali) were lovely, helpful, friendly, etc. Our room was large, breakfast, which was served on our verandah, offered an extensive choice and was very nice. Alam Shanti is a little out of Ubud central but is a short walk alongside the Monkey Forest. There is a shuttle that you can take, but we never did, although we walked back in the dark one night and the Monkey Forest is VERY dark at night, and I would opt for the shuttle on another night time trip. There are several restaurants along the road that Alam Shanti is in and we ate there most of the time. Lake Leke was our preferred restaurant, and some of the others were less than fantastic. We did try the coffee shop that was just opposite the entrance to Alam Shanti - I think that we must have been the first ones to order coffees that required the use of their coffee machine. I ordered a latte and my husband a double shot espresso. They had to check the pictures on their board to see how to serve them and my husband's came in a little jug, rather than a cup. I'm not convinced that my coffee wasn't Nescafe made with milk, but it certainly gave use a laugh. We had 5 days in Alam Shanti (I booked in February) and then had to move to Alam Jiwa, which is just a short walk from Alam Shanti. The hotel was very nice too. What we really liked about their set up in both of these hotels was that each of the blocks of accommodation has its own access and no-one else had to walk past your verandah to get to their own. It felt very private and most had their own garden area.
I really feel like I know my way around Ubud much better now. We've always had lunch at Casa Luna, visited the Monkey Forest, walked around a few shops and it's been time to go. It was really nice to get to see so much more of the area. We had lunch at Ibu Oka's one day - Babi Guling is her specialty - in fact I don't think she sells anything else. It was soooo busy, they were on to their third pig for the day by 12.30 and there was a constant stream of people with all chairs being used - so groups were mixing. I guess you wouldn't go for a leisurely lunch with lots of chat - they want your seat if you're not eating for the next group. But the babi guling was really tasty - proper Balinese "spiceyness."
The week in Ubud was a great way to start the holiday and we would definitely consider doing at least 3 or 4 days there in the future. I guess my tip for Alam Shanti would be to book as early as possible to get the room/s you fancy, as I said I booked in February for late September and we couldn't get the room we wanted, and could only get the one we got (Laksmi) for five nights.
After Ubud, we headed to Sanur, where we have stayed for the last 8 years at the Gazebo Beach Hotel. I know that lots of people don't think much of the Gazebo, but we have found the rooms that we like and have always stayed in that section and loved it. Great staff who, over the years, we've come to feel that we know well. There are big changes afoot however at the Gazebo, and from November the part of the hotel that we like is closing. There were several groups looking at that part of the hotel while we were there, so maybe someone else will keep it going, but my fear is that it will become villas (and probably out of our price range). I asked Ibu Betty to show us some rooms in the section that will remain open, but they quite frankly did not appeal. They were generally quite spacious, but whereas the rooms we have stayed in have individual verandahs and plenty of space around them, these all felt crammed together - shared verandahs and another room across a narrow pathway. The rooms that she showed us all smelt musty. Sad to say, but I don't think we will be staying at the Gazebo any more - which is likely to become the Irama Hotel in the near future.
With that in mind we had a look at a couple of other hotels nearby. We have been paying US$80 at the Gazebo for a 2 storey cottage with an outdoor bathroom, daybed and table downstairs and private verandah, so you can imagine my shock when we were shown a standard room at the Besakih and they were asking US$140!!!! Maybe their on-line price is better!! Also tried the Respati, and I think I like the look of that - the cottages seemed clean (although I believe the one that we saw had recently been renovated), certainly smelled fresh and were US$95. We also had a look at the Ajanta villas and for their 2 bedroom villa were quoted US$395 - I guess a couple of nights of real luxury wouldn't go astray!!
While we were in Sanur we did almost nothing - we were on our own this year - sometimes we go with a group, but we try to get there every year and the others tend to go every couple of years. We've done most of the tourist things, and both of us needed a good rest. We did lots of walks, lots of reading, lots of massages (Tini at Sindhu Beach for hubby and Sweetie did mine from Gazebo - great massage, very strong, but I felt like I'd been through an assault course by the time she finished), lots of lying by the pool, and lots of relaxing. (How lazy is this, we didn't even go to Kuta for the day - talked about it and in the end decided that we really didn't need - or want - to).
Restaurants that we chose included The Village, Ratatouille (I love the more authentic Balinese flavours of this place), Bonsai (I always have their "Raja Seafood" for my last supper in Bali - great value), Griya Santrian (on the beach side), Mona Lisa, the cafe out the front of the Ajanta villas which my husband tells me had the nicest pizzas, La Barrac'ia. That must be about it.
We did happen to be there for the earthquake - it was our last day. Were there 2 years ago for that quake too - I hope it's not us, 'cos had been home 6 days and we had one here too!! I don't know, maybe I was just so relaxed by then but I really didn't think too much of it and was really surprised by some of the panic I saw and heard from other people. I'm sure it would have been different if it had lasted longer, especially at the more intense shaking end of it, but it really only lasted about a minute and only 10 - 15 seconds of that were at the high end of intensity. There were some glasses breaking around us, but the locals didn't seem too concerned, so ... figured it was within the range of normal.
As always, it just goes toooooo quickly. Had a lovely time, can't wait to go back, but feel a bit sad that some of our friendships will be lost - guess we get to make new friendships. Would be really interested to hear of the preferred hotels of others - especially if there are room number tips to know.