Aaah Bali. Bali one day, Bali the next!
This was a quick holiday with a girlfriend whom I'll call June because that's her name. June's mission was to scatter her parents' ashes at Lake Bratan. I believe there were formalities involved but nothing insurmountable. My mission was to "hold June's hand".
We flew Garuda from Perth on a half empty flight (56 pax) and had the exit row to ourselves. Arrived pretty much on time around 6.30 pm. Very glad I didn't succumb to the attractions of V*P and book it as we were the only flight in at that time and had cleared the airport, found our driver and were churning through the evening traffic to Ubud well before 7 pm.
A few words about the Champlung Sari Hotel. My expectations had been thoroughly dampened by some comments made by Forumites re rats, bedbugs, mould, blocked plumbing and sundry other joys. In the event, we were delighted with the hotel in general and our room in particular. We were in a twin share Superior Room on the ground floor, about 30 paces from the infinity pool. The room was huge; the bathroom massive with full size bath, separate shower, separate loo and marble vanity which stretched forever. The plumbing was obviously quite new and all worked beautifully. Double smoked glass doors from the bedroom opened onto a little verandah with a stone walled garden. Aircon, comfy beds, good towels. The gardens and landscaping are to die for. If you want slick modernism, all glass and stainless steel, this is not for you, but if you like character and atmosphere reminiscent of Graham Greene and colonial times, you'll love it.
We only had one dinner at the hotel, for convenience the night we arrived and it was nothing special at 53,000 Rp for a meal and fresh juice. We had breakfasts included in the package and these were quite acceptable with a good range on offer and plenty of it although it soon became monotonous and if they weren't included, we would have headed out to one of the gazillions of eating places on Monkey Forest Road.
Morning of Day 1 we were up early. "Why?" I hear you ask. Good question! Because June is a compulsive early riser whereas I have to be dragged kicking and screaming from my bed. Breakfast was like a scene from "Planet of the Apes". Monkeys come in from the forest and create havoc trying to steal food from the tables. Hotel staff ride shotgun on the buffet and tables waving long bamboo poles to scare the apes away. We learned very quickly that while the perimeter tables had nice views, the central tables were unlikely to come under monkey attack.
Leaving the hotel, we tackled the streets and headed up the hill to the Market. Yes, it's a good kilometre and yes, it's steep. But hey, what's the rush? Mooched around the markets and tried out our bargaining technique. I'm not very good at it - too soft - but June is a killer! Bought multiple pashminas as gifts, place mats, table runners; such a novice! By the time I got to the shops on Jl. Monkey Forest I was starting to get the hang of it and bought nice shoes cheaply and bargained down a lacey layered top and jacket from 200,000 Rp to 140,000 Rp. Stopped for a lazy lunch at Wayan's Cafe - icy Bintang and chicken Cap Cay for next to nothing. Sooo good.
In the afternoon we had a full body massage at Verona (lurvely) then oozed our way back to the hotel for a swim and relax by the pool.
For dinner, we headed out to Coffee & Silver because it appealed to June. I wouldn't recommend it, and NOT just because I torched the roof of my mouth on the little dish of chopped chillies. Anywhere that they have to give you a torch to read the menu is immediately suss!
End of part 1.