JBR - Part 3: UBUD
What is it about Ubud that lures me back time & time again?... I find it so fascinating, so laid-back & secluded, so bohemian yet chic.
TEGAL SARI, Ubud
We had stayed at this delightful, well-run family hotel 3yrs previously & were looking forward to our return. We had booked 2 deluxe rooms (21 & 23). This ensured modest space for the boys & ourselves, plus a little privacy.
After the Nusa Dua apartment, a small amount of adjustment was necessary. Although we loved the Tegal Sari, it was a little step down in ‘grandeur'. We soon acclimatised however with the glorious rice padi outlook & the warm, gracious & ever obliging staff soothing us into life in Ubud.
It was great to have our own space away from the teens - but close enough for me to still be comfortable with the distance between us. Their room would be chaotic & messy, ours would be tidy & quiet. We would wake early - they would sleep in. I would phone them late evening to suggest 'lights out' & again in the morn to wake them for their breakfast delivery to their terrace... so convenient.
A new Reception, Kitchen & Dining area is being built at the (current) back entrance, on Monkey Forest Street. This will be a welcoming & smarter entrance to the hotel with a walk past the new 2 storey villas, then the deluxe villas, pool & other rooms, instead of the current other way round. Nice to highlight how close the Tegal Sari is to Monkey Forest Road too.
Half way through our time at the Tegal Sari we discovered they actually DO have a small number of tv's, but they only show local channels. This is not well-publicised. After arranging for a tv to be brought to our room, it was connected to the boys PS2 & we were able to watch dvd's in our room.... such a treat on a rainy afternoon.
Worth noting is that a couple of extra inclusions (massages & laundry) were placed on our account in error. This was a surprise since the TS is usually so efficient & trustworthy, we nearly didn't check our account. A simple error, but worth checking future accounts as so easy for a bit of confusion with such a constant stream of clientele.
A few negatives: bath towels/mats are quite thin & discoloured these days & would benefit with replacements; sliding doors to terrace are not fixed & secure; wildlife (insects) gain easy access via gaps between glass panels of doors; though looking luxurious, the oversized shower head is too high & large for such a small shower cubicle: there is nowhere to place toiletries within the shower cubicle, other than the floor.
Having said that, I just love this hotel, their unobtrusive & courteous staff, the idyllic setting... it is a place to really kick back & unwind.
TEGALLALANG
I find irresistible the various homeware stores along this strip. I sourced diverse silver homewares & a few other items but really just looked this time, as there are only so many beautiful wares you can fill your own home with.
Looked also at the Venetian Mirror store along here too where a girlfriend & I had purchased a large wall mirror for her daughter last year. Tried to purchase a smaller matching item for her dressing table, but were disappointed to find they only stock the larger mirrors there now. Decided to seek out their Seminyak store later in the trip to check there also.
WHITE WATER RAFTING
Whilst I did Tegallalang, my husband & boys did the white water rafting. Although they had done this a previous year, this adventure was on a different river, so differing scenery & another great day out. They were particularly impressed with the enormous rock carvings which were featured liberally along the river embankment.
MARKETS, Ubud
Amazed myself at finding a fixed price store in the maze of stalls at this market, as recommended on BTF. (Thankyou whoever you are!) Purchased 4 beautiful new sarongs here that I had not seen previously.
Beautiful bangles for friends, & myself as well as Pandora charms for a girlfriend were purchased at Ubud Markets. Also purchased the obligatory copy watch, which so far has kept time well.
Mostly ‘non-pushy' people working the markets - none of the 'killer sales people' you often see closer to Kuta. Just that little bit more civilized I felt, with a nice variety of goods on offer, though steamy conditions the days we attended.
MONKEY FOREST ROAD
Went to a variety of restaurants along here, including old favourite, Dianes - so casual, inexpensive & delish food. The power went out that night, but fortunately a generator kept the lights on & the food coming. Interesting that Dianes was one of the few restaurants that seemed to have a generator in that section of shops.
A couple of new homeware stores have started along this strip. Nice to see the Pigment Rouge store up here now too.
Bought a few more DVD's for the kid's laptops at a Circle K & a Ku De Ta CD that I had wanted for a while from another store.
HANOMAN ROAD
Walked a long section of this road & fell upon a variety of restaurants, boutiques, glassware, ceramic & silver stores that I had not been aware of previously.
Was surprised to see (& hear!) 3 Ferrari's driving down this street one behind the other. Such a varying disparity of material comfort in Bali these days.
TROPICAL BALE RESTAURANT, Ubud
This restaurant had been recommended on the BTF (thanks Whoopee & Heatherbelle!) & did not disappoint.
The view is elevated over a tranquil rice padi... nothing outstanding, but it is pleasant. The dinner & glassware is striking, as is the cutlery. The service is top-class: attentive, but not intense.
My husband & I attended for lunch & chose a 2 course menu (main & dessert - could have had entrée & main instead). At a cost of only about $AUS12 , the savour & standard of food combined with it's staging, is truly superb. At 10 times the price in Australia, I would still be singing its praise. I normally ‘eat to live', but if I were regularly consuming this standard of gastronomic delights, I seriously think I would start ‘living to eat!' With only about half a dozen choices for each lusciously descriptive course, it is still so difficult to make a decision.
Having said that, what a shame such a ‘sophisticated' experience was tarnished somewhat by the ‘lewd' posters in the WC (which by the way, was not flushing the day we attended).
Overall, highly recommended - just wish I had not spoilt the experience by attending the WC.
ZEN SPA, Ubud
As a creature of habit, this is the only spa I ever attend in Ubud. A delightful hour spent with a generous & skilful masseur in soothing surrounds with a tasty ginger tea & fruit at the end of another blissful Zen experience.
NYUH KUNING VILLAGE
Walked through the quiet Nyuhkuning Village early one morning. We went via the back entrance of the Tegal Sari, down Monkey Forest St & along the pathway that runs parallel to the Monkey Forest. Walked past lush rainforest, a stream & watched the playful monkeys get up to all sort of amusing antics, as only monkeys do. Lingered in a number of small & intimate hotels on this side of Ubud & enjoyed our early morning adventure by foot.
AN OUTDOOR/CAMPING STORE
Cannot recall the name of an outdoor type store which is located on the RHS of Monkey Forest St after you exit the Tegal Sari Hotel. Here though, we purchased a large, great quality backpack (suitable for camping/hiking), sml, lightweight sleeping bag for 0'C & a smaller padded backpack for everyday use. They were bargains at only $AUS80, $AUS20 & $AUS30 respectively.
Next, Part 4: LEGIAN