TO UBUD
From the airport,Gusti took us straight to a money changer in Kuta which apparently gave the best rate (8100rp to the aussie dollar) so we changed about $1000 between us.
The traffic crawl out of Kuta was painfully slow at that time of day but no-one seemed to mind...all eyes were out the bus windows with amazement in what was going on in the streets.Week old newspapers thrust up to the window,dogs rummaging through whatever,and the locals going about their usual business in typical Bali fashion,snail's pace in the warungs and workshops yet breakneck speed in the cars and motorbikes that zoomed past.
Kuta crawl finally gave way to the Bypass where our driver could really open up and put on a show.This guy definitely didn't want to be late home for dinner and the white knuckle drive to Ubud could only be described as a Sega Rally at an amusement arcade.
The gasps coming from the kids was quite a laugh at times as our driver hurtled through the market towns and craft villages of Celuk,Sukawati,Mas and Batubulan.This guy practically sat on his car horn,narrowly missing courageous dogs that would play chicken by lying in the middle of the road,only getting up at the very last second to drag themselves reluctantly to the kerb as he sped past,much to the horror of the animal lovers onboard.
He finally came unstuck when he side-swiped a posh looking 4WD parked stupidly on the side of the road.It reminded me of the Titanic scraping full length along the iceberg.All heads whipped around to see a woman bundle hastily out of a shop,look in terror at the side of her car and then glare menacingly up at us as our driver slowed momentarily...then hit the pedal and took off.I couldn't believe it...he just drove off.This must be some serious dinner he was trying to be on time for.
No surprise really when he got waved down by the local constabulary at the next village,she'd obviously rang through.I didn't think a bright baby blue 10-seater was ever going to get away with that for long.
After 20 minutes of multiple damage inspections,lots of mumbling (we stayed in the vehicle),hand gestures and surprisingly,laughter?...Gusti and his driver climbed back in,apologised and we were off again.
TEGAL SARI
I'd heard on TripAdvisor (and this forum) nothing but excellent reports about the Tegal Sari,so I was quite looking forward to staying here.Previously,I'd always stayed at the Hotel Tjampuhan, which was also lovely...lush and dense,more like staying in a forest.I'd booked Tegal Sari online months ahead but even then,I couldn't get the kids in.They stayed next door at Greenfield Bungalows.
First impressions were good,very good.Very traditional and very Balinese with alang-alang roof thatching throughout the communal pavillions,lush gardens and tall trees,lotus ponds and that overwhelming feeling of tranquillity that you only get from a boutique hotel in Ubud.
After a seamless check-in,and while the kids were checking themselves in next door,we were whisked away to our upper floor Super Deluxe room #12.
When booking,I had originally requested one of the newer rooms #20,22 or 24 at the far end of the property which were apparently nicer,but they were fully booked long ago.Never mind,our #12 was just lovely and very clean according to my wife Mary (hereinafter simply called 'wife') with crisp bed linen and lots of wooden furniture,day bed etc.
The porter kindly showed us everything we needed to know about the room and our stay here and then,after assuring us that if we needed anything at all...... left us.
The balcony!!!...The curtains were still closed so we hadn't seen the famous Tegal Sari 'ricefield vista' yet.I grabbed my Sony camcorder and after taking some interior footage,slowly opened the balcony door and burst out onto the balcony.
WOW!!!......and WOW again!!!
What a fantastic view! 180 degree views of almost endless green ricefields dotted with small grass huts.Tall flags rustle gently in the breeze that occasionally sweeps across the tops of the swaying rice.A small fire burns gently in the distance and rice farmers walk through their crops in a leisurely yet purposeful manner.The great Ubud Monkey Forest looms mysteriously on the horizon and will provide the perfect back drop for the sunset that is only an hour or two away.
I'm in heaven....where's the Tia Maria?