As I mentioned in an earlier post, another thing that was of importance to me was that the old boat builder on the beach at Jimbaran Bay should meet our grandson, Wayan Declan (and his mother) for whom he had made a model Jukung some years back. This was just after Bombing 2, when tourist numbers were almost non existent - so restaurant meals were few and far between, new fishing boats were not needed, he had no work and he had not had any for some time.
Picture here on the web page.
Those muscles come from a lifetime of manual labour, not from a gym.
Driver Made had carried the conversation between us during our visits and made the arrangements for the model.
For a few hundred rupiah it was crafted, I think, as though it was for his own grandson. There was also our usual ‘oleh oleh' (##), this time a canvas roll of hand tools I'd collected and Herself had packaged, topped off with cigarettes. All up it produced the widest smile; and with the hardest handshake I can recall, the deal was done.
The stitched outline of a jukung on the tool roll caught his attention, I remember, and he ran his fingers over it several times.
(##) An ‘oleh oleh' is a small gift one brings back for friends when returning from a trip away.
Picture here on the web page.
Assorted drills, augers, files and punches in the canvas roll with the outline of a jukung stitched onto the end flap.
Being a creative people the Balinese especially appreciate anything hand made and decorated.
The model has been kept in pride of place on top of Declan's wardrobe and is in pristine condition still. It is one of his prized possessions, I think; certainly it has escaped the rough and tumble that boys' toys usually go through.
The meeting was scheduled on the day that Declan spent in hospital and so it was postponed. I had almost forgotten about it when Declan and his mother broached the visit with me almost at the end of our stay. Hasty arrangements were made and Made was called to bring the car around for the trip to Jimbaran to see him.
Alas, like the meeting with Monica on the beach, this meeting was not to be either.
Jimbaran has changed since we were there last. Even Made seemed a bit confused when he could not drive right up to the old guy's lean-to between the two more substantial boat shelters. Where it used to be was just the roof over an empty area and Made jumped out to make some enquiries about where we might find him these days. We were not really prepared, nor was Made I think, for the news he brought back. The old boat builder had died just a couple of months before.
There was an awkward silence for a minute, until he asked if we would like to go to his (the boat builder's) home. Yes, we would, we thought, not really knowing what to expect but not being able to suggest anything else either.
Made seemed to know where to go, although, as it turned out he was off by one narrow street in the warren of inner Jimbaran. As we walked down the lane that took us to his home, I asked Made if there were any gestures of respect we should know about. No, he said, all OK. Can we give them some money, I asked? No, he replied, not a sad time for Balinese, reminding me that earthly death for the Hindu was actually a welcomed opportunity for the spirit to move on towards a higher level of ‘moksa' or enlightenment, depending on the person's karma.
For a simple view of Balinese religion and beliefs go to this link - http://www.filosbali.net/Bali'sReligion.htm
The ‘kampong' or house compound seemed a little larger than I had expected from the short walk but was typically Balinese with the cool tiled bale for meeting and greeting and house ceremonies just inside the gate. There were a number of slightly amazed people there as we all filed in after Made, their previously animated conversation dying away as each in turn looked around at our entry. Perhaps never before had they hosted such a number of ‘bules' especially one who was small, with big blue eyes, long blonde curls and an unfazed attitude to all whom she came across. Made made most of the introductions (Maeve made her own.) and explained the reason for our visit. A wall of conversation welled up louder than before and even louder calls were obviously made to others who very shortly came to witness this odd event.
Made had trouble keeping up with his interpreting duties and was more than a little relieved I suspect when some of the younger family members or neighbours' children came and showed the usual multi-lingual skills of their generation.
There was a framed photo of the man (I cringe a bit because I have to confess that I don't know his name.) hung from the top wall beam of the bale and I welcomed the invitation to look at it more closely. It was from his younger days (Well, it could hardly be from his older days now, could it.), taken at a ceremony of some sort and I suspect from the contents of the unusual photo album I was later shown, it might have been at a son or daughter's wedding.
Declan had taken charge of the Chupa Chups as the younger generations filed in and it was not long before I was passing out little Australian flag stickers. The more I passed out the more seemed to be needed and I suspect that half of the kids in the neighbourhood were now being called in. When the time eventually came to take our leave I was gently taken back to that framed photo on the bale wall and shown the little Aussie flag now stuck in the bottom corner. When we go next time, and we will, we will have a small album with copies of all the photos we have taken of him over the years of our visits, and of his ‘workshop' and his jukungs and especially the most recent one of his daughter (or maybe daughter-in-law) and a grandchild.
Picture here on the web page.
I'm sure we will be remembered and perhaps our visit might even become part of the family history that the youngsters will eventually tell their children about when they ask about the flag on great grandpa's picture.
Our trip back to the hotel was a quiet one. One day I will talk to Declan about it as I think it is perhaps the first time something he really wanted was quite beyond his reach. Maybe he'll talk to me about it first.
The photos can be viewed at the link below if you're interested.