Having just discovered BTF, I'm now totally addicted. I've just returned from my 18th (I think) trip to Bali, and already long to be back there. Reading this forum is the next best thing to being there. I'm also totally gobsmacked at the unlimited source of information, advice and entertainment. Thanks, guys, for all the lively contributions!
Here's my JBR, which is a late, and a little on the long side - sorry, I get carried away.
This trip we actually managed to score three FF points redemption tickets over the March school holidays in Victoria... 17 nights to play with. I spread the stay over three locations: Nusa Dua, Sanur and Seminyak/Kerobokan.
Our first stop was the Swiss Bel-hotel Bali Aga. Around $90 Aus a night gets you get a large, pleasant and comfortable room with pool access, a massage, and daily buffet breakfast. It's not close to the beach, but they run a shuttle there every few hours. The menu's a bit limited, but the hotel's close enough to several fairly mediocre restaurants. It's a pleasant and relaxing place few days - not really for much longer, as I find Nusa Dua a bit limited in dining and shopping options.
The second stop was the Mercure in Sanur. We'd negotiated a six-night stay in a deluxe room, with breakfast included. Big disappointment... we left after four nights. In a hotel that was running at around 30% occupancy, they stuck us in a room with no view, adjacent to the restaurant and a tatty amphitheatre. Seating was downright uncomfortable on our outdoor area, so you didn't feel like relaxing out there with a good book. Plus the airconditioner made splashy noises and dripped on our heads as we passed. Major renovations have turned the Mercure into a handsome and stylish resort in many respects, but why they overlooked the pools and pool furniture is beyond me. Broken, mismatched sun benches; pool size inadequate for the size of the resort (plus, with dark tiles that attracted the sun, swimming in them was like wallowing in a tepid, chlorinated bath). The kids club was a disappointment too: no kids at all, and occupied by four men who weren't remotely interested in entertaining our daughter. The beach was great for massages but unsuitable for swimming - we ended up next door in the Sanur Beach Hotel pools, then staying for happy hour.
The best was left for last: the Novus Bali Villas in Kerabokan. (take a virtual tour via Expedia.com - we also have some lovely photos; let me know if you want a link). Designed, we're told, by Made Wijaya (aka Michael White), writer of books and creator of some of Bali's best gardens, the overall effect is serene and beautiful. There are only ten rooms in all, spread over five kubus (one-bedroom pavilions), one two-bedroom villa and one three-bedroom villa. Each kubu has its own bale for dining, a generous veranda with daybed, table, chairs, fridge etc, an outdoor bathroom and a large, airy room with a four-poster, desk, DVD. Everything you need, in fact, apart from an in-room safe. The Novus is not close to anything, but they'll drop you off wherever you want to go (no payment required, but tips gratefully accepted). At night we were entertained by a gamelan band practicing in the local village, frogs and crickets. Afternoon tea was intriguing: piping-hot fritters, Balinese delicacies with grated coconut and palm sugar, choc-chip cookies - and on our last day, fried bananas with cheese and chocolate. Yes, fried bananas smothered in grated cheddar and chocolate! Even our nine-year old wouldn't touch them. The girl who brought our proudly announced she made them herself. We buried them deep in our rubbish bin, so we wouldn't hurt her feelings.
Best meals: Fixed-price lunch (65,000 rp nett for two courses) at Ma Jolie; tapas at Cafe Moka, delicious but expensive dinner at Kafe Warisan; wonderful but small lunch at Gado Gado, lunch at Excelso coffee shop at Bali Galleria (excellent salads, club sandwiches and iced coffees).
Cheapest meal: Dinner for three with drinks at Mama Putu's in Sanur: around 65,000rp, although on reflection I think they forgot to add in something.
Worst meal: lunch at Prawita in Kuta/Legian: cold, tasteless pancakes; rancid coleslaw; flaccid, oily chips that sagged in the middle when you picked them up. All three plates were sent back uneaten. And this used to be such a beautiful restaurant way back when.
Best shopping: the Animale factory outlet and Jenny Shop 29.
Worst shopping: many dud DVDs, and the waterproof watch I bought at Tullamarine airport, which broke on the plane going over.
Okay, that's it for me!