Got back to Perth in the wee, cold hours this morning.
Left on 28th March & spent a delightful freebie week at Bali Shangrila Beach Club as mentioned below in reply to Karen's query. Saw the Ogah-Ogah on the roadsides in every village we drove thru. Fabulous. We were prepared for Nyepi, not a problem at all - even the roosters seemed quiet.
Then we went to Lombok by ferry from Padang Bai and everything you have ever heard or read about the porters there is nothing to the reality. They are ... oh no words (must admit tho that by this time I'd been on antibiotics and a whole spectrum of pretty pills for my gashed infected arm - no alcohol - feeling a tad tetchy). But they are horrendous. The boat was coincidentally the same one I'd last caught to Lombok in 1983 - back then it had a nice first class aircon section at the front with airline-style reclining seats and a VCR. Nice. Now that's just closed off and full of junk. Fortunately, it was the first fine day for a week so the crossing only took 4 hours. I caught a whiff of the loo and didn't drink or eat a thing till we arrived. Don't take the ferry. On the plus side, we met a fascinating English family - live in Japan, before that in Saudi, teaching, 2 staggeringly beautiful English Rose daughters and a feisty Irish missus:) My hubby, despite his advanced years, is into extreme sports as is Mike and they had a great time comparing equipment, places etc without any one-up-manship.
A car from No Worries Tours met us on arrival. Misnamed. The guy had a new driver and he wanted to show him the back streets to various places on Lombok. There is a highway from the ferry terminal to Kuta, Lombok but no - we bounced along for 45 mins before my alcohol-deprived temper asserted itself. Quick trip after that. Stayed at hubby's favourite hotel in Kuta - lovely gardens, rooms around the great pool - most nice. Not a lot to do in Kuta if you don't surf. Hubby woild go surfing every morning, taking a boat out to the breaks - one day he arranged for me to go fishing with the boat guy but it'd been pouring the night before so only caught seaweed. Gave up after that especially since one of the pills I'd been prescribed was a diuretic and I couldn't cope with having to pee over the side LOL.
Without any doubt whatsoever the restaurant with the best views in the whole universe is Ashanti, and the food is superb & cheap. It's not sign posted - turn right at Kuta Indah Hotel and climb steeply for 10 mins (on your 35K/day motorbike). And there is Helen's place. She's from WA. Only open from 8.30 am til 6 pm. The views are beyond words - her vegetarian cooking satisfies all. The decor, ambience, magazines, games etc invite you to stay. Without any doubt whatsoever Ashanti is exactly what a restaurant should be, anywhere in the world. It was an absolute pleasure not only eating at Ashanti, but meeting Helen - a very special lady.
I was astounded by the number of recently derelict buildings there, of all kinds. Bali is doing it hard but Kuta Lombok is suffering so much more - the poverty around even the touristy areas was apalling.
Just loved the Wednesday market - smaller than the Sunday one - wandered around talking to the lady vendors, sampling their spices etc - soo glad I have a modicum of bahasa. Internet is crappy there - used the Coralia Novotel - expensive but quicker. Went to the traditional village Sade - hired a most useful guide, a must-do. Also went to the pottery village - sooo cheap - a fifth or less of the prices in Bali & ditto for the Lombok woven things.
Hubby left his boards at the hotel and we flew back to Bali. Because I'd be alone most of my time there I wanted somewhere central but quiet & safe. We ended up at the old Poppies in Poppies 2 and loved it. Just 4 bungalows with a nice if tired garden, huge room with aircon, fan, hot water, fridge, good bathroom, in-roon safe and best of all an alang alang roof, not to mention the gorgeous little puppy Miss Blacky. Free use of the facilities at Poppies 1, a 10 min walk away. US$24/night double US$21p/n single. Excellent security, great staff - they called me Mummy Hedda:)) Hubby left after 3 nights. I'd never stayed in Kuta before and I must admit that I avoided the main touristy places at popular times - if I went to Centro, for example, it was as soon as it opened and I left within an hour. I felt very safe wandering around the backstreets, the little lanes & gangs. Ate a lot at Warung 96 in Jl Benestari. 9K for American brekky. Great club s'wich.
Without a doubt for us the very best restaurant is Ketupat behind Jonathan Gallery. When I'm in Bali I mainly want local food, and Ketupat's food is Indo Haute Cuisine. Tables are set around a pool, with pavilions set back for privacy. Service is beyond compare and the food is, well, better than any meal we have had anywhere since we were there last September. And cheap.
Hubby flew back to Lombok for 3 weeks and I went into shopping mode. Got sme nice things, nice clothes - so many sales there.
Went to Sammy & Suzies 3 times - nice. Met Smudge - somehow I'd pictured him as a small man - but he'sm larger than life and looks a bit Buddha-like apart from his pointy head, so he's a bit elf-like, too. Whatever you see when you look at him, his goodness shines thru. He says he's a selfish bugger - more people should be so selfish. Wish I was.
Oh and finally, a fab place to eat is The Balcony down the end of Jl Benesari, turn left, past Warung Brasil .. upstairs ... frozen fruit margaritas for 12K from 5-7 pm, great food, huge serves. I got a doggy bag for Miss Blacky and I had half the dogs in Kuta following me home.
Not quite finished but brain is kaput.