We are a 50 something couple from Auckland, New Zealand who decided earlier this year to make Bali our winter break to find the sun and explore a new culture and land we had heard much about, but had never experienced. After we had booked, I was recommended to this forum and became hooked, making lots of notes and asking the usual much repeated questions. Here I would like to express a big thankyou to all the users of this forum who provided us with so much useful information and helped to make the holiday such a wonderful experience.
I should also add that this was not designed as a cheap shopping trip, though as my wife became accustomed to the bartering, the full bags scattered around our room became quite noticeable!
We set off from Auckland on Saturday 24 September flying Garuda business class. It was ok, I would not rave about the service, but we really wanted the leg room that business class offered, we made up a late departure on route and arrived in Bali on time.
Cleared VOA & customs quite quickly, though were stopped for a hand baggage search looking for the extra bottles, but we only had one each. Then outside to the heat, smells and search for our transfer driver. Never again, as discussed on the forum, it is not worth paying for a transfer. We waited about 25 minutes for other passengers, who had lost bags. Next time (do you like that?)I would get a taxi.
WE only changed $20 at the airport money-changers (they moaned), where they were offering 6800R for the dollar(NZ) and I knew from the forum that it would be better elsewhere. We only used the Kodak shops from then on with the odd exception and averaged 7000R, though we saw some better and some much poorer rates advertised outside some very dodgy looking places, we didn't bother.We never had any problems at any money-changer during the whole trip.
We arrived at the Hotel Padma, Legian, where we were booked in for 10 nights in a Garden Delux chalet club room. We had asked for,and had confirmation by fax to our travel agent, for a room at the pool end and initially were led away from the pool, however we were not far away and as the hotel was quite full we had been upgraded to a small suite with a very impressive bathroom and shaded balcony.
The Padma is a big hotel with accommodation and restaurants spread over a large area, but we had paid for the club package which allowed us to use the club's own breakfast area with lovely beach views, and the clubs exclusive lounge with separate check-in service, free evening cocktails and other drinks (much used)for two hours, free afternoon tea(food) for a couple of hours, all day tea and coffee and free internet service.We loved the Padma, the staff were friendly, the grounds beautiful and well kept, the pool with swim up bar was great and the location away from the main hassles of Kuta town , but walking distance to everything suited us just fine.
We planned a couple of settle in days with no shop bartering, so next morning about 10am we walked along the beach to downtown and into Matahari for a sim card for the phone 100,000R with 70,000 credit (from the booth on ground floor just past the supermarket)and we changed some money at the adjoining money-changer (used this one a few times without problems). We had intended to get a taxi home from here, but thought we would look around a few more shops (as you do)Five hours later, having got lost more than once, walked for miles around the shops and market stalls, stopped for several Bintangs, we arrived back at the hotel, tired and ready for a swim and a little relaxing.
In the evening we took a taxi to Poppies Restauarant in Poppies Lane. We had booked and the restaurant was packed. We had a lovely meal with two entrees, two mains, two glasses of wine and water for 246000 ($35NZ) Taxi home was $2.50NZ (inc tip)
The next morning, after another great hotel breakfast we again walked along the beach, this time all the way to the new Discovery shopping mall and at Optic Zeis I ordered two pairs of prescription sun glasses.These were ordinary frames that I had wanted, similar to my usual glasses, but with quality sunglass lens. I had not taken a script, so they read the code on my existing glasses and then double checked my focus etc. They cost 2135000R ($305 NZ for both!!). I was quoted NZ$399 for one pair back home. After snack at breadtalk (yum) over to Matahari again for a few supermarket provisions for the room and a small backpack for our next day out 79000R (11.20nz.) then after a compulsory Bintang stop (My wife-a wine drinker-was developing a taste for the stuff)She headed over the road to Animale where she bought a lovely skirt 65000 (9.20nz) and top 129000 (18.50nz).Then taxi home ($2) and relax around pool until cocktails in club lounge about 6pm. We then walked along seafront towards Seminyak and had dinner in one of the many diners along the way (forgot name) The food was ok (not great) but watching the world go by and enjoying the evening was very relaxing.
Day three dawned and after breakfast we were collected about 8.30 by the rep from Bali Adventure tours to take us on our cycle and elephant ride trip. What a stunning and very enjoyable day. We arrived late morning high up near one of the volcanos and after juices etc were met by our cycle guide and fitted for bikes and helmets. than we set off for about 2 1/2 hours of riding, mostly downhill freewheeling or level riding, through minor highways and byeways, stopping for heaps of great photos and meeting many locals. We visited one very poor family farmlet and saw the great poverty, many still live in. Only the 80 something grandma was home when we visited and we all left her something for allowing us to visit her. The guide said she had not been more than a few miles from her home in her entire life. We met lots of smiling kids along the way and high fives all around were the order and some small notes for a photo or two. The people, some so poor, yet so happy. I thought this part of the trip should be a must for any western teenager to see the reality of life in a poor country.
At the end of the cycle ride we arrived at the elephant park and after a look around we were off on a forty minute ride around the local farm land. This was great, we both loved it and felt quite safe in the hands of the "driver" who spoke good english and told us lots about the animal and the park.Then it was heaps more fun feeding the animals and great photos were taken by the staff with our camera for us. The cost of the day was 1751000R ($250nz) for the both of us. I though it was good value and a recommended day out. We arrived back at the hotel about 5.30pm. In the evening we walked out for dinner, which was unplanned. We firstly walked into Gosha Restaurant in JL Padma just up from the hotel, it was quite full and very warm despite many fans. We were shown to a table next to a very large and noisy family group, the teenagers appeared to be having a burping competion. We left asap and walked aroung the corner into JL Legian and into Porchetta Italian restaurant (Number 362)where we enjoyed a lovely meal with good food and friendly staff and a mine-host who visited every table at least twice to enquire about the meal and the holiday etc-very pleasant. The bill would have been quite cheap had we not indulged ourselves after our day out. We had seafood and prawn kebabs, 2 desserts, 2 coffees, garlic bread and four cocktails for 346000R ($50nz)
Day four was to be a relaxing and shopping day. My wife had brought three favourite items of clothing from home to have copied. We headed for House of Komang.S just up from hotel in Jl Padma, where my wife chose material to have two jackets made, plus one skirt to match and some trousers copied. Price agreed was 925000R ($132nz) we did not haggle much on the price, my wife was very happy and the quality when it arrived was excellent and no second fitting or alterations were needed. Then around the corner into Dolphin leather in Sahadewa St (off Padma) where Julie was measured for a lovely red leather jacket for 900000 (128nz)
During the previous evening and this morning a slight tummy upset had developed into a good case of "the runs". I did not however feel unwell or have cramps etc, so put it rightly down to a change of diet, climate etc. Before our departure I had seen the doctor in NZ and he had prescribed "Diastop" and some other anti-vomiting pills (not needed). After one days dosage, I was fine for the rest of the trip. We spent the rest of the morning relaxing around the pool and in the afternoon more shopping and then a Pizza in the hotel (just to be safe).
Day five dawned and at 8.30 we were collected by our lovely driver Made(madebagus2002@yahoo.com)Made had been recommended on this forum by Kiwi_Carol and Balibabe and others and their recommendations were spot on. He was great. We had prebooked him by email and discussed rough itineraries. Today we set off for Ubud. Our first stop was at a Batik factory (Sari Amerta at BatuBulan, Gianyar)to see the weavers at work. Julie bought a couple of bags from the shop for our daughters 165000 (24nz for 2). Then on to Celuk to visit a silver jewellers (Sari Karya Gallery) Made had advised us as to how much to bargain, but the staff in the shop were very open about the whole deal and seemed to be beating us down as we went along. Julie picked thee lovely items, a bracelet, earrings and a lovely pendant (without chain)after negotiating each piece to a total of 800,000R (for the lot)we were able to get a further discount to 700,000 ($100nz). We thought the price was a real bargain for the quality of the items.
We then visited a large family art shop Muji Art Family at Mawang, Ubud. There was not much we liked or was far too large or expensive to take home on the plane, but Julie spied a smaller black and white traditional painting for a particular empty space on our lounge wall at home.
This painting had the crazy price of US $350 on a sticker on the rear of the frame. And as we did not want the frame, we asked for a price for the painting alone. The painting was offered at 1,500,000, we offered 500,000, their bottom ,never to be repeated price dropped to $800,000, we came up to 600,000 ($85nz) and when that was declined we said goodbye and headed for the van. One handle on the door and we were called back .handshakes all around and please sit down and have a drink while re wrap your painting for you-great. Whether we still paid too much, who knows, but we enjoyed the bartering and the outcome and that set us up for so many other "buying" experiences during the trip.
Now on towards Ubud and a stop at the Monkey Forest. This has to be great value at only 10,000R ($1.40nz) entry and we had a delightful time feeding and photographing the monkeys. Pre-warned, we had left our hats and sunnies in the van, but could see other tourists having great trouble.
Then into the town centre and on others recommendations, we headed to the Cafe Lotus in Ubud Main Road for a wonderful lunch in a front table adjoining the lotus ponds and overlooking the temple at the rear. What a lovely location to dine. Julie had a meze type meal with a selection of six different items, whilst I had deep fried prawns with rice and sauces. We then pigged out with crepes and ice cream and coffees plus one beer and one wine spritzer. Total cost 255,500 ($36nz)Amazing!
After lunch and an hour or so window shopping and sightseeing in town,we set off on a scenic tour through lovely countryside with plenty of photo stops at rice fields etc and a stunning temple (no sellers to annoy us) and we arrived back at the hotel about 5.30pm. Cost for the driver for the day was 300,000R ($43nz)What a bargain!
After a swim to refresh we (Julie really) were ready to hit the shops again. We walked down the beach until we were level with Poppies lane 1 where we started and also Poppies Lane 2. We bought some DVD's (the usual buy 10 at 10,000R($1.42nz) each and get 3 free).Then Julie spied some lovely rectangular cane table mats, which we had previously seen in Matahari at 40,000. Another trader had started at 45,000 so we left, this trader started at 35,000 and we settled at 20,000 ($2.85nz each)so we bought eight.
My body seemed to shut down right outside Kori restaurant in Poppies 2. It was packed, but after a drink at the bar a table was found and we enjoyed a quick meal of spagetti bolognaise for me and chargrilled chicken for Julie and with two beers the bill came to 162500 ($23nz)Then home to a very good sleep. We were ejoying our holiday so much and looking forward to the next five days. More to come later. Ian & Julie