Back today from 10 days in Legian and Ubud. 4th trip - last was some 7-8 years ago.
Very grateful for the enormous help I got from this site, so thought I should reciprocate with some brief observations.
Peak Season
Was apprehensive re being there in August - peak season. Expected it to be very crowded. Thought it was very quiet. Regular visitors told us that was busier than last couple of years but still well below pre-bomb levels.
Hotels
Stayed at Tegal Sari in Ubud - on the ouskirts of town but not a long walk to centre. Beautiful location overlooking rice fields more than compensates.
In Legian, stayed at Alam KulKul - very nice, well located, excellent breakfast, terrific staff, not too large.
Driver
Went with Wayan Merta based on many recommendations on this site. He was 350k per day, a little more expensive - maybe 50k or $6-7 - than others, but more than outweighed by his knowledge, manner, ultra safe driving and itinerary planning. Could not recommend too highly.
Currency
Exchange rate fluctuated day-to-day, from 7400-7600 at Kodak shops. No problems encountered. Airport on arrival was lowest at 7350.
Food
Had many lovely meals. The one exception was Legends in Garlic St, which has been recommended here previously. Meal was dreadful - way overcooked seafood, curry tasteless, almost inedible. Friendly complaint met with a smile and shrug. Do not bother going there!
Best for Indonesian food is Kepocak in J Legian - just down from McDonalds at back of a gallery, but separate and lovely garden/pool setting.
Insurance
Met a couple who foolishly had not taken out travel insurance. He tripped on footpath ( and there are many bad footpaths)and broke ankle. Had to wait to come home for proper treatment. Don't even think about not having insurance.
Gold
Gold shops in Kampang Arab at near end of J Sulawesi are great places to shop - about 20 shops all clustered together. We bought, for example, a 22 inch, 18k gold necklace with some nice working, weighing 19.5g, for about $260. Much cheaper than here.
Australian Airlines
First time had used them. Was quite happy on whole. Plane 3/4 hour late coming back due to late arrival in from Singapore.
Service very good.
I am 185cm and seat room was ok - not overly generous but adequate for a 5 hour trip.
Denpasar airport a dump really. Pity no Qantas lounge frequent flyers can use.
Massage
Went regularly to Le Spania at 135 J Legian. Great 1 hour massage for 75,000 (a special opening price - but masseuse told me they had been opened for 2 years!). Very clean and friendly.
In Ubud, used Zen as recommended - opposite and along from Tegal Sari, back towards town, near Monkey Forest turn-off. Very nice - same price for massage.
Well I think they are the main points I wanted to put out. Hope they are helpful.
Happy and safe travels.