Tis the time to talk of many things: sunrises, sunsets, tides, walks, beaches and most of all, turtle farms. Uluwatu may be one of the best settings I have ever been in. The temple, the cliffs, the sea, the breeze and the sun on the horizon. I enjoyed the monkeys, the Kecak ceremony and the sunset. It was well worth the price. On the other hand the Singing and Dancing troop was a little too Disney for my tastes, I think. The monkeys made me remove my eyeglasses and the parking lot chaos was over the top. Besides the setting my favorite part was the little bent up old man with the umbrella pushing too cheeky monkeys away with the umbrella's handle. If I could have it my way; every one would go away and take the monkeys with them. It would be about 35 minutes before sunrise when it is just starting to get light and the bottom of the clouds turn red and reflect that color to the water. The Indian Ocean looks spectacular and the sky is eerie. You can see all kinds of trails around there and I would power walk them for around 2 hours. I know there must be a spot where you could plant your feet and watch the sunrise and slooowly turn your head and watch the sunset without moving your feet. When thoroughly exhausted I would return to monkey court and umbrella man would be there and he could tell me some great stories. I bet I have a few that he would enjoy too. Let me have Uluwatu in that fashion and it may be my favorite spot on the planet.
I like to walk hard and be in full energy mode by the time the sky starts to lighten. When the sunrise comes about 40 minutes later I'm heading home. From the Grande Mirage to way past the Club Med there is a brick walkway on the Benoa/Nusa Dua beach that is almost a 10 meter loop, including the dogleg left out on to the jetty and the gazebo. I set out the first morning and was scared by all those dogs. I grabbed a stick and started out. The dogs turned out to be gentleman and the fun began. The first couple of days the beach folk gathering seaweed, having ceremonies, bathing and fishing couldn't believe the sight of a 62 year old, over the top, power walking California long hair in full regalia (bright bathing suit and t-shirt and head band). I have my clownish aspects and I good morning everyone I see every where I go, home or away. By the 3rd day they started to respond and the questions started. I picked up a half dozen Indo phrases and by the 7th day they were waiting for me. We had great on the fly conversations and I was made privy to some wonderful stuff. A crowd of 15 who I spoke to on the way out had arranged a full out ceremony on the beach by the time I got back that way 45 minutes later. One of those giant constructs of bamboo and palm, with bells and incense, mats, ornate fabrics and offerings and whatnot and a goose. It had nothing to do with us, just the Balinese blending with their island and gods (kind of the same thing). They indicated that I was welcome to stay, and I did. After about 20 more minutes they broke down and went to do whatever it is they do next. A lot interesting stuff on that beach. And by the end I was saying good morning to the dogs. By the way all the dogs look exactly the same except for color; small gene pool on the island. I've also been to a town where the dogs are exactly alike, except for short legs.
Jimbaran Bay is primo sunset land. I wrote about Sharkies in part one but forgot to say that if you call by 2pm-ish you can arrange for them to pick you up and wait around to take you back to your hotel or wherever. The waiter will contact the driver when you ask for your check and he will be parked out front waiting when you saunter back out. They don't shuttle anyone else, they just wait for you. Sharkies really wants your business, but they only have 2 Kijanes so call early. If you get there at 5pm you can get one of the first row tables on the beach reserved, and then walk down a ways to where they are setting up an evening flea market (used clothing, bits and pieces, flotsam, jetsam, etc). It's a fish and produce market in the am but in the evening the local Muslims transform it into something way different. It seems to have a bit of a hard edge to it, but really a great experience. The music, the bustle, the smells. Is this what a souk is? Back to Sharkies and a memorable meal in a memorable setting.
We did all the typical vacation to Bali stuff. I had a few suits made, we purchased sarongs, incense, cds, shell buttons, knock off watches, a wonderful Indian headdress (there turns out to be a factory that makes American Indian goods for the German market?) and the usual stuff you bring home as presents and souvenirs. The drive through the rice patty fields to Batur was beautiful and Batur itself was awesome. We saw the Monument and rode past the penitentiary in Kerobogan. All of this plus great food, service, weather, prices and scenery made for a splendid vacation. But none of the above is what makes Bali so special in my head. It's the people. The guides and drivers who service the tourists are making a living to feed their families and advance themselves as they deal with us and they do a better job of it than anywhere else I've been. But that is not who they are. I had a driver be unavailable one afternoon because of a ceremony. He needed the money, but he knew where his priorities lay. It wasn't a duty to attend, but it was a bigger, more joyously important part of his life then providing additional income. I found that my understanding of the soul of Bali ran through the Turtle Farm my wife gave directions to in the 1st section of this JBR. We had lost John Doble's phone number and were really curious about him, his life, home and family. We set off to find our way back to the farm. It was easy to pick our way through roads and trails through the jungle (?). Do not be scared! The guy who comes up to you carrying one of those curved knives is going to ask for a cigarette and wonder where you are from, he has been clearing land, not pockets. No one is going to rob you or hurt you. No beasts are going to attack you. You are far more at risk from Kuta purse snatchers, hustling money changers or over Bintanged tourists. Just think of it as jumping down the rabbit hole. Just head for the water while bending to the right. Ignore the 1st farm and the bankrupted farm (which deserves an inspection as you go by) and just walk in. The place is clean, the turtles are beautifully cared for and pace is relaxed until the tide comes in. Then it is droves of excursioners buying refreshments and souvenirs and looking around. But if you can get there when the tide is out you can learn something. Introduce yourself to John and say that John and Ruth from California sent you. He will be there and be happy to talk to you. By getting a glimpse of his life, home, family and village we got a look at the Balinese and Bali. These people have lived in the same spot forever. They live by the tides, the sun and the weather. Their gods are the ones who govern their environment. They don't appease them, but respect and celebrate them. Any excuse for a ceremony will do. Some live by the clock to accommodate us and earn a living, but not all. They are a curious, intelligent, tolerant people. You can't smile like that unless you mean it. Your life is your family, your home, your island and your gods that live in the temple that has been there for so long that everybody believes it has been there forever. Those gods are in the plants and winds and water and mountains and every where. The rest is nothing but transitory shadows. Sure you're happy, life is good. Ganisha smiles.