A couple of things I have forgotten to mention so far....
1. We drank red cordial every day before breakfast to ward off bali belly (and we didn't get sick!)
2. We got stung at least once chasing good exchange rates at places that weren't PT something or KODAK.
Ok the bike tour...HIGHLIGHT OF OUR TRIP....
After much research on the forum decided to go with Bali Budaya on the recommendation of Nicki Lawson (posts as nicno) contact details as follows:
07 5530 3555 office or 0404 881501 and e-mail at work is alltrav@bigpond.net.au
This company (Bali Budaya) was fantastic. I booked through Nicki in Australia and phoned them when we got there to confirm pickup. They picked us up at 7am (yes, I know it's early but believe me worth every minute) from our hotel. Our driver was I Made. Nice fellow, answered all questions and supplied us with info when he could. Drive to Ubud (about 45km away) took an hour. This was something I learned early on. Distances are deceiving. Roads are best described as goat tracks and the traffic needs to be seen to be appreciated. Didn't bother any of us as we just sat and stared out of our windows....lol
First stop was the office headquarters in Ubud where we selected the right size bikes and helmets for the kids and us. Supplied us with drinking water (when you first get there the heat is overwhelming, but you get used to it as you go...) and we met our wonderful guide Arya (please request him, he is an amazing person). Drove to a lovely restaurant/café overlooking Mt Batur for morning tea then onto a walk at the base of the volcanic mountain. The scenery over the mountain and Lake was breathtaking. Even saw the volcano smoking (yes, a bit freaky but still....)
Have to mention the trip there...there was an old man sitting prostrate in the middle of an intersection. Apparently there every day. Trying to kill himself because he has no family to look after him. The Balinese being the way they are, however, courteously swerve to avoid him....
Arya told us that the volcanoes were (according to a fortune teller) supposed to erupt in 2005 so everyone was a bit nervous about them...especially after feeling an earthquake on the 2nd!!! So they are all doing their bit to appease the gods.
Drove to a village uphill where we mounted our bikes for the 25 km ride down hill to Ubud. We passed through villages of happy smiling people. (Can anyone remember that song 'shiny happy people holding hands'? was what went through my head for days while we were there) Children would run out crying ' Ayo! Allo!' and very excited to see us. First stop was to see a 'farm', actually part of the rainforest (which they call jungle). We saw a chocolate tree, pineapple, a cow, durian fruit, and snakeskin fruit.
Next stop was a family compound where the family did bamboo weaving. More specifically the ancient grandmothers did the bamboo weaving. Teeth stained with beetlenut these happy smiling people went about their daily tasks of splitting bamboo like they had not a care in the world. We took some video footage. One of the most magical moments was when the grandmother asked what the machine we were using (to film) was. Hubby recorded her, then replayed it for her. How do you adequately describe the wonder in the face of these people when confronted with our 21st century technology? Still brings tears to my eyes just to think of that moment of illuminous grins and eyes filled with disbelief and wonder....
We also had the privilege to meet the baby of the family. According to Balinese tradition, children less than 6 months old are not ever let to touch the ground. So an adult is responsible for this child at every moment. Even when they sleep they are either held or suspended in a sleeping cradle. At the 6 month mark there is a big celebration and the child's feet are allowed to touch the ground.
The cycling tour proceeded through wood carving villages and stopped to watch (and participate in) the rice harvest. Each village we were greeted by 'ayo! Allo!'. We were riding through one village when school was just out...We had a few lollies (mentos) which my girls distributed to eager school kids...I was overwhelmed at how easy kids can communicate across cultural boundaries....
Arya, our guide, was amazing. One of the truly genuinely amazing people I have ever met. Nothing was too much bother, and he really looked out for the care of my girls. The last 10 minutes of the tour was mainly uphill. He discreetly suggested the girls travel in the van following us - which they were happy to do, even though they had coped really well the whole way...
We stopped for lunch at a café in Ubud which put on a banquet of Indonesian food. Wonderful. One of the best meals we had in the whole trip.
Next stop Monkey Forest (by van, no more bikes). I had read heaps on the forum about the monkeys. The girls pestered me to buy fruit to feed them. Against my better judgement I agreed, on the condition that they drop the fruit as soon as the monkeys looked the least bit interested.
Well. Flynne (8 yo) figured it out soon enough and handed me her bunch of rambutans. Really appreciated this as a monkey climbed my back to get them....
Rigan (10yo) is stubborn. No amount of coaxing, cajoling or direct orders 'drop the f******** fruit' would convince her to do it. Monkeys sized her up and well, you can guess the rest. Poor kid was traumatized. However, we got it all on video to bring out at her 21st so I'm happy.
Next stop was to see a 'middle class' artist family compound. Flynne took one look at the 'kitchen' and said 'Where's the fridge?'. The simplicity which these people live is mindblowing. And nothing can prepare you for what you see. Mud/dirt floors, pigs, chickens, fighting cocks, and the precious son playing gamelan.
Saying goodbye to Arya was like saying goodbye to a treasured friend. We were then driven back to our hotel in Legian. Entire trip cost us AU$165 through Nicki.
That night, exhausted, we had dinner at Bali Qui II. Was horrid. Don't go there.
Next JBR will be our Elephant Park/Ubud trip.