Unfortunately some domestic dramas at home over the last couple of weeks have got in the way of my final couple of JBR's - at last I can catch up with them - for newcomers - the previous ones are in the November archives:
JBR 1 - general overview
JBR 2 - Patra Bali and Bali Dynasty
JBR 3 - Shopping and Eating around Kuta
JBR 4 - Gili Trawangan
JBR 5 - Candi Dasa
JBR 5A - more on CD
JBR 5B - Padang Bai and Amed
While in CD I had a look at three hotels in town
The first two are arguably the market leaders in the central area - KUBU BALI has an amazing setting - climbing up the hillside away from the road, behind the restaurant of the same name. There is no doubt that being fit and able is a good idea if you want to stay here - reception is about 75m off the main road and then the steps head off up through the grounds to the bungalows spread up the hill. The standard cottages are lower down and have views over the gardens. They are a good size, with both a/c and fan (an idea I really like) soaring thatched roofs and a semi open air bathroom.. The décor is light and airy with pretty patchwork style covers and mossie nets. They were quoting rates of US $45 low season and $55 high (incl breakfast and tax)
The deluxe cottages are higher up again with ocean glimpses and are considerably larger with bigger bathrooms. They have all the facilities of the standard ones and both types have a terrace with loungers or a day bed. These were $55 and $65.The main freeform pool was right at the top - overlooked by a small bar/restaurant where breakfast is served. A second pool is down on the lower level at the restaurant. The landscaping is brilliant with lots of water, water lilies, neat paths steps, wooden bridges and a great choice of plants and trees
All in all this is a very pleasant hotel - IF you have no problems with fitness
Next I went along to the WATER GARDEN - this was newly opened when we were there in 1990and the difference the established gardens have made is quite phenomenal. My memories were of a very attractive hotel but very open - with the water and the wooden overwater verandah platforms in front of each room dominating the view. They are still there of course but the wonderful gardens have softened it tremendously and I really liked it. When we were planning the trip, we had considered staying there but a combination of our preferring to stay beachfront and some pretty mixed reviews on this forum decided us against it.
Whilst a quick inspection will never take the place of actually staying somewhere I'd like to think that under the auspices of the new English influence this place will not disappoint people. The staff were delightful, the cottages (3 standard - fan cooled, and 9 deluxe a/c + a 2BR villa that I didn't see) were attractive and certainly didn't seem at all run down as I had read. The cottages here are a little closer together than at Kubu Bali but as the gardens are denser here privacy doesn't seem to be a problem but it is not quite so open
They have a tiny area of the garden that is an example of a rice paddy - worked as a proper one would be - but obviously on a very small scale and all by hand
The deluxe cottages are certainly worth the little extra charged for them (officially US $85 whilst the standards are $70) - with a mini bar/fridge, hair dryer, wine glasses, safe and a plug in mossie repellent. Room service breakfast is offered from 7 - 11am
The salt water pool is attractive with a small waterfall feature and is overlooked by an elevated bale to relax in - with a small library
We ate at the restaurant one night - it was very popular and the menu was more varied than many other places in CD - if a little more expensive.
We had a look at Shirley's Seaside Cottages - eating several times at her Temple Cafe. This is directly across the road from Water Garden - with the cafe on the street and the cottages running down to the water. There is no pool, but there is no problem using the one at Water Garden (25000 for the day) and the beach is an option at all but the highest of tides. At the moment whilst there is a wide variety of rooms - none are air conditioned. Shirley was planning to install a/c in 4 of the rooms close to the water by Christmas and with the big panoramic windows giving great views this will be a fine option. Rooms here are considerably cheaper (afraid I lost track with all the options but starting below 100000 and I THINK going up to a maximum of 230000 )and with the wide option of styles - there is something for almost everyone. All the rooms were spotlessly clean (cleaned every day whether occupied or not she told us) and the very friendly atmosphere would make it a great place to stay if you don't need all the frills.
For old time sake we went to have a look at Pondok Bambu, where we had stayed in 1990 in individual fan cooled bamboo and thatch bungalows with open air bathrooms and small verandahs. This place- directly opposite Kubu Bali - has we were told been bought by Dutch interests and is undergoing extensive renovations - the bamboo and thatch has gone and they were working on new brick built bungalows - still set on either side of a central pathway through to the water. They have got a pool now - deep but empty whilst the work was going on and a very pleasant restaurant overlooking the water. We couldn't see the rooms or get any idea of rates but the central location, brand new accommodation and a good place to eat will make this one well worth keeping an eye on
We ate as previously mentioned at
The Water Garden,
Pondok Bambu (lunch - 2 courses each with a large Bintang and 16% service and tax - 92800 - cloth napkins and the most imaginative version of a Caesar salad I've eaten anywhere)
and Shirleys Temple Café (including a massive breakfast - 32000 - enough for 2)
Also at Iguana Café, where they had live music a couple of nights.
Toke Café (dinner - 2 courses each, a large Bintang - and 2 cappucinos - not the best we've ever tasted but we thought we'd give them a go (25000) with 15% - a total of 128225)
All were fine - friendly, good food - especially at Pondok Bambu and good service. We ate one night at Café Legong - this had the slowest service we experienced all holiday - an hour from ordering to receiving our food!
On Melbourne Cup morning - 2nd November, we moved on to Pemuteran - coming up next