We took two trips out from CD 1 was a visit to Padang Bai. We took a public bemo on the way there (5000 each) and had an interesting morning wandering around the streets and along the beach, watching the ferries come in, load and/or unload and wondering at the seaworthiness of some of them!!
It was a pleasant small town with a really nice feel to it and I'm sure we will spend at least a couple of nights there on a future visit to do it more justice. The 'town' beach was surprisingly clean considering all the activity on it and around it - the sand was an amazing consistency large round granules almost the size of mustard seeds that you really sank into when walking on it. It was just too hot to do the walk over the headland either way - to Pantai Kecil or Blue Lagoon and anyway we thought we had to leave some things for next time!
Hawkers (sunnies, watches and sarongs) were a bit of a hassle on the beach and the road that runs behind it unfortunately I guess they don't get a lot of tourist business so we kept on smiling and kept on saying 'No Thank You'
We waited around a long time for a public bemo back but with no fellow passengers around at all the bemo drivers were lined up waiting for the arrival of the first passenger ferry of the day from Lombok which was waiting just outside the harbour to dock, when there was space at the wharf we finally agreed to 10000 each for the private journey back to CD
Whilst waiting for the bemo, in the ferry waiting area we had an interesting conversation with one of the stall holders in particular like others we can't emphasise enough the special insights you get by taking time to talk with the locals. We bought some foodstuff and drinks (far more than we really needed) from a lady stallholder looking after her cheerful outgoing toddler son (or maybe grandson) who was obviously a Downs Syndrome boy. We couldn't help wondering what the future would hold for him.
Our other trip out was a full day to Amed with No Problem Transport next door to Kubu Bali Restaurant) (Ketut) 250000
We headed out along the coast road with first stop the water palace at Ujung. What a transformation from the ruins we saw there in 1990. With outside money (was it UNESCO??) the place has been completely restored and now if it was in Oz would doubtless be a very popular wedding venue, with pools, wide grassy areas, pergolas and gorgeous gardens and great photo backgrounds.
We headed on, on the narrow twisting road (incidentally it is fully sealed now) through the steep and rocky arid hills of this far eastern region. It looked like an incredibly tough place to eke out a living and we were amazed at how high up some of the hills people were obviously living. At the sides of the roads we saw goats, a few cattle and the inevitable chooks many with family in tow. At last the road came out to the coastline near Kusambi and we were in awe at the huge number of fishing boats pulled up on some of the rocky beaches.
Scattered accommodation options started at Aas but we continued on to BLUE MOON VILLAS where we stopped for drinks at the Komang John Café, and a look at the accommodation. All the good things I had previously read about this place made it somewhere I was keen to see to possibly stay next time and I wasn't disappointed set on the high side of the road, the views are magnificent and talking to a guest, the beach is an easy few minutes walk away. The pool is small but superbly landscaped and the atmosphere felt really good. The room options all explained on their web site so I won't go into it here makes it very flexible and the quality of the books available in the guest library made we want to check in straight away I wanted to read at least 3 of them there and then!! Food on offer on the menu was also very interesting and well priced as were the few souvenirs they had on sale in the café we bought two lovely shell necklaces for 10000 each that would have been sold in Kuta for 3 or 4 times that I'm sure.
My only question about BMV would be how easy it would be to move along the coast to the other 'centres' for a change of scenery without transport of ones own but I am sure there must be ways to do this. There are also some steps to get up to the restaurant (and reception) from the road and then again up to the rooms but not so difficult that they would be a problem for too many I wouldn't think
We dragged ourselves away reluctantly, and drove on passing a new looking place on the beach side of the road that looked very nice and I will try to do some research on called LIFE IN AMED.
Next stop was at the VIENNA BEACH in Lipah with a variety of accommodation at the waters edge. We were there to snorkel and we spent some time in the clear water off the black sand beach. It was low tide and a bit pebbly once you got in the water (as were many of the 'beaches' around here) and as it was quite shallow it was a bit challenging getting out to snorkelling depth but well worth it
After a fair time in the water we grabbed a drink and got changed. Didn't get a chance to look at the rooms here but the exteriors looked inviting and the location was certainly superb- but the toilets for the restaurant where we changed were extremely grotty.
Next stop was the INDRA UDHYANA just a little further round the bay that Ketut the driver said was considered to be the best hotel in the area. The open sided reception area had stunning views and the pool was quite big and looked very inviting. The layout of the place on the side of a hill with all accommodation in the a/c individual bungalows on 3 levels, meant that every room had a view of the water
The most expensive bungalows superior' were on the lowest level directly facing the sea with a separate living area and an open air bathroom - these were being quoted at US $50 - $70 (low/high seasons) Standard bungalows were further back and smaller (US $35 - $50) and 2 storey lumbungs with a living area downstairs and an indoor bathroom were $40 - $60. There did not seem to be any guests staying there and whilst the place generally had a good feel to it and might be well worth trying, some of the furnishings particularly in the living areas (coffee tables, settees and arm chairs) looked extremely tired. Bedrooms though were not as bad
Next stop was DANCING DRAGON COTTAGES this was the other must see place so far as I was concerned but funny how some places appeal to some people and not to others and whilst I would certainly be interested enough to give this a second chance it didn't excite me nearly as much as I expected. It might have been the number of quite steep steps to get down to the pool and the ocean front cottages from reception, it was probably the very real shortage of shade on another absolutely stinking hot day. Don't get me wrong, they had plenty of guests, the cottages were gorgeous, the menu looked sensational and the outlook of the restaurant was superb and I certainly don't mean to 'knock' it maybe the strength of the sun that day had just completely overpowered the strengths of the feng shui!!!
The mandala for meetings/workshops for up to 100 people (I was told) is finished and is a stunning building with the type of soaring ceiling/roof we had seen before but on a way smaller scale. An amazing piece of work
Final hotel was the surprise for me hadn't heard much about it the SANTAI (between Bunutan and Jemeluk) was really lovely and oh the wonderful shade after DD. They apparently have a big French market, and said they didn't need to offer much in the way of special rates to fill the 6 Sulawesi style bungalows. The 3 sea view ones were offered at US $75 low and $95 high, whilst the slightly smaller garden view ones were $55 and $75. They seemed very stylish with 4 poster beds, and all offered both a/c and fan and with a lovely landscaped pool, this would certainly be somewhere else I would consider. They have a useful web site and there are a couple of valuable comments about it on Mic's site
Finally we had a pleasant enough late lunch (more like afternoon tea time) at the Amed Café and Restaurant, somewhere that offers internet use upstairs.
On our return to CD we had brilliant views of Mt Agung and the gorgeous rice paddy scenery on the road to Amlapura fascinating to see people drying their washing on the crash barrier at the side of this busy road.
Next time I'll wrap up CD with some info about hotel inspections I did and places we ate then it'll be on to Pemuteran