In Reply to: cliff one for you posted by kristy on Saturday, 13. November 2004 at 17:16 Bali Time:
I'm actually taking a train to Yogya from Bandung this time. In fact, on this trip I'm not going to Bali at all.
I have travelled to Yogya from Bali before, but only by plane.
The executive trains in Java are as comfortable as a plane, and cost about half the price, but take about 10 times as long. The cheap trains should probably only be used on short trips, because they are just too hot and stifling, and invariably crowded (but mega cheap). I think even the fastest train from Surabaya to Yogya takes about seven hours. Maybe three or four from Malang to Surabaya. And I'd guess around six to eight hours to Malang after you get off the ferry. The trains seem to move fast enough, but take inexplicably long rests at each stop. If you go by day you will see plenty of scenery, but if you see something you like, you can't stop for a closer look.
I doubt it would cost much more to hire a driver to take you to Malang, depending on your bargaining skills. And you could take a break from travelling whenever you like. Actually, since there's two of you travelling, it might even be cheaper.
I haven't seen much of Java between Bali and Yogya. I chose to fly there simply coz it's faster and I couldn't wait to get there.
Overnight trains can be a good budget option if you want to save on a night's accomodation and you have no problem sleeping on trains. And trains are also a good chance to talk to Indonesians and learn about the places you're travelling to. There's not much else to do but chat, and you don't always get to talk to someone for a few hours -- so you can get past all the small talk and into the good stuff.
The trains are almost always late. Be prepared to add an extra 20-30% to the estimated travel time on any schedule. I have no idea why this is. I suspect the drivers like to have a chat with their friends at each station.
If you're worried you'll get claustrophobic on a long train journey, perhaps the best thing would be to get a driver to take you to Malang, then catch the train for the shortest leg from Malang to Surabaya. That way, if you don't like it, it won't be so bad. If you do like it, take the train to Yogya. If not, catch a plane.
If you do take the train from Surabaya to Yogya, it's probably worth spending a day in Solo to see the Puri and (a bit out of town but worth it) Candi Sukuh, and to shop for shoes and bags (there's a million factory outlets -- but you can probably get all the same stuff in Yogya for close to the same price). Trains from Solo to Yogya run every hour (till 7pm, I think)and take about an hour. The cost is 5000rp. I've yet to find good food in Solo, though.
So... ummm... I guess each mode of travel has its pros and cons. Whichever you choose, make the most of it.