Bali – 21st June to 11th July 2004
Well, where do you start? This will be my first JBR, and my third trip to Bali.
I'm a 40 something lady (divorcee actually- however as balinese view divorced people as odd or morally faulty, for this trip I was a widow if a Balinese asked! With apologies to my ex- husband). 2003 was a long hard year for me with two workmates out of three person work unit on maternity leave and a new person joining the team so by 2004 I decided long service leave in order and another trip to Bali was called for. I still have a desire to go to Vietnam, but wasn't confident enough to travel there on my own, so Bali it was.
This was to be my third trip and I was determined to see the rest of the countryside (trip 1 in Sept 2000 with my 13 year old daughter, we were based in Ubud and Legian, Trip 2 I was traveling on my own and again stayed in Ubud and Sanur with day trips to Candi Dasa)
Ended up traveling during school holidays because of my daughters TAFE holidays (it meant I didn't have to worry about getting her to TAFE whilst I was away).
I booked most of my accommodation on line (Tegal Sari- Ubud; Rambutan Cottages-Lovina; Dancing Dragon-Amed; Swastika Cottages-Sanur) and the travel agent booked Camplung Mas in Kuta as part of package with Garuda Airlines.
BTF had been invaluable for research, and Id booked a spot at S & S on the 3rd July 2004 with Kazza with Indonational Restaurant afterwards for dinner.
Day 1: Brisbane - Ubud
Thought I was clever in booking a flight that left Brisbane at 8:30 am Monday 11th July – forgot that translated to a very early start from Noosa, which is about 140 kilometres away from Brisbane airport. Ended up taking a door-to-door bus service ($80 – good value) as transport and got picked up at 4 am. Needless to say- my daughter did not get out of bed to wave me goodbye!
Prior to departure I had been haunting op shops and friends and collecting clothes to take over as donations and after numerous faxes and calls to Garuda Manager in Brisbane I had been granted allowance of 45 kilos baggage and my wheelchair (that I was donating to Kupu- Kupu Foundation) was allowed on as sporting luggage. Nicno from Gold Coast can testify how exasperating getting that permission was! (I was emailing her daily, worried about what would happen if I turned up at airport with all my stuff and no permission) Right up until I got to the airport I wasn't sure of whether the wheelchair was included in the 45 kilos or not (I had two big suitcases already, excluding wheelchair).
Anyhow – smooth run at the airport, was almost first to check in- headed off to duty free as you do and brought the 1L Jack Daniels to go with me to Bali, and those bottles for me to pick up on my return. Didn't spot Nicno at the airport (should have got her mobile number but instead we relied on clothes description! pink and brown.............my apologies here for anyone who I accosted in the identification process! I did find her once on the plane!)
Plane left pretty much on time- I was asked to swap seats by a lady whose party had been split up by the seat allocation process – bewdy! Got to sit right in front of the TV screen – no complaints here! Food OK- service – OK- its only a 5 – 6 hour flight so who cares at the end of the day?
Sat next to some surfeits my age (one on first trip, other on 5 th trip) so chatted and whiled away the time, as well as tracking down Nicno. Gave one of them the Adopta address and the Rubbish Dump peoples story from BTF so that he could make a donation whilst he was in Kuta.
On arrival, had my $25 US in hand, and sat back and watched the fun begin.............didn't appear to be any extra staff on, there was a few planes all arriving at same time and some confusion with people joining the smaller queue (only when reaching the staff to find out that they had to pay VOA first). Probably took about 1 hour to go through, then get my trolley / bags/ wheelchair – didn't find porters a problem at all (no thanks was sufficient). Had arranged with Tegal Sari to send down a driver for me and on coming out of airport into glorious sunshine and humidity and that smell! There he was with that sign with my name on it. After loading all my stuff into the car and explaining why so much luggage (and a wheelchair!) off we went. Got to Tegal Sari about 2 pm from memory – what a lovely place it is. Just south of Ubud (about 1.5 kilometres from Monkey Forest Road) this place was great. I had splurged on the wooden room (300,000r a night) which had balcony- day bed- fridge- teas/coffee making facilities- huge double bed with nets- huge bath and showers situated at far end of the property next to the pool. I had excellent views over the paddy fields and the pool. The place is actually bound on two sides by paddy fields, which gives great views and a breeze. My only regret was only there for 4 days so didn't get to relax totally and enjoy the place to its fullest. After a quick swim and relax by a beautiful pool, I rang Begonia from Kupu- Kupu Foundation whom Id remained in contact with after Trip 2, and arranged to meet her for dinner that night.
I then commenced battling with my mobile phone, realizing that whilst Id arranged with optus in Australia to have international roaming put on, I appeared to be getting text messages Ok from my almost 18 year old but I couldn't send any (despite using either 'reply' functionality OR by entering country code plus full number minus first digit) This was going to be a minor hiccup. Thank god for Internet access in Bali- it's everywhere! - So told my daughter via Internet that Id look into getting an indo card soon so that we could keep in contact (and alleviate the 'worried mother' stress!).
Begonia picked me up and we went and had a look at the shop that Kupu –Kupu Foundation has opened in Ubud down from Main Palace, where the disabled artisans can sell their goods to the public. This is an important step in allowing them to achieve some financial security in a country with no pensions or health care. Paintings, kites and carvings are displayed in the store and Begonia is hoping to have boards up soon with each artisan's particulars in near future. We then went off to Casa Luna for dinner (I got Begonia to chose – figuring quite rightly that she might like a change from Indonesian food!) Begonia chose pizza, whilst I had my first nasi campur for the holiday! Bliss. With an orange juice and Diet coke the bill came to about 100,000R or about $15 it was a great dinner. I haven't experienced any bad meals at Casa Luna, although later in my trip I was dying for a cappuccino and lime tart (which I reckon is the best thing about Ubud whenever I visit) and called in there about 9:30 am, only to find the machine was out of order and the bakery hadn't delivered that morning yet.
Left Begonia with a cash donation, and promise to catch up in the next day or so to see the Kupu- Kupu Foundation property, which had only been purchased at my last trip. Over dinner Id mentioned that I had never seen a Balinese cremation so she promise dot make enquiries for me. I was tucked up in bed by 10 pm – exhausted!
Day 2: Ubud- Markets
Armed with my list of suggested prices off BTF, and with a great nasi goring / mixed fruit juice/ coffee/ fresh fruit brekkie that Tegal Sari excelled in for my stay, I was off to do some shopping (as you do!).
Tegal Sari offers free transport into Ubud, you just need to check in with reception. I spent the next 4 hours wandering around, as you do, the Ubud markets and down monkey forest road, and walked back to Tegal Sari.
Ubud Gecko Singlet
Ubud Gecko T Shirt
Temple sarong (pink and silver)-I use these as tablecloths at home – very durable and easy washing - 70,000R for all three
Black beaded sandals – 50,000R (made my first donation to the Balinese economy here- by end of trip the going rate was 25,000 to 30,000r but I was OK with the price so it didn't really matter!)
Had spring rolls and my first bintang (what bliss! I rarely drink beer but when in Bali.........................) for all of 25,000R at one of the warungs along monkey forest road. Back at Tegal Sari I indulged with a few hours at the pool and chatted to 2 families from WA. Caught up with my daughter on the internet café just up from TS ( 300 r a minute- very fast connections), and then ate at TS – another nasi campur! There was a jet lagged American there also at dinner, very interesting to chat to as he came to Bali three times a year to buy goods to import back to Georgia USA.
Also noticed in Ubud huge cremation tower being built literally in the main street running down side of royal palace – apparently the royal grandmother is being cremated on 24th July 2004 . The tower is going to be 24 metres high and the telephone and electricity cables will have to be moved for the tower to be taken down the main street. She was a twin ( very auspicious apparently in Balinese lore) and was 106 when she died. Ubud as lovely as ever, it really is one of my favourite places in Ubud. I noticed there has been a bit of work done around Ubud Palace on the roads, funded by the world bank I read somewhere.
I had hoped to do a cooking lesson in Ubud ( with ketuts place or even Tegal sari, as I had been to 2 on prior trips with Janet De Neefe, and thought that a change might be good ) but didn't get around to it as I ended up going to a cremation on my fourth day in Ubud.
Day 3 : Ubud- Sukawarti Markets- Elephant Park
I ate at TS every morning as the food was so good I had no interest in looking elsewhere- they offer a great variety and something to suit all tastes. There are about 5 other eateries within easy walking distance of TS for those who like to try other places, but it is included in your basic tariff.
Today I hired Nyoman from TS for the day- 250,000R (ended up giving him a 50,000 tip which was only fair as you will see)
Plan of attack was Sukawarti markets in the am, with trip to Elephant Park in the pm.
I had found this place on my 2nd trip to Bali and after seeing the bargains and a painting at another forumites home that she picked up from here I was determined to go back. I'm not saying that the prices I paid were the best but again, I was comfortable with what I paid and whom I paid it to. Once you are back in Bali you do sense that they have missed the tourist dollar and that life is still very hard for them.
On my wish list was a carved wooden ganesha, a quilt – purple / blue curvy stripes (seen in Ubud previous trip) and a painting (unframed as I couldn't see me getting it back otherwise). Nyoman parked the car and we agreed that Id wander on my own, and he'd come looking of me if I wasn't back in 2 hours. The place hasn't changed much – its still cluttered, noisy and packed with carvings/ sarongs/ clothing and so much fun! I can't say I saw many other tourists there. I was able to get my ganesha (about 12 –16 inches high out of wood) for about 200,000R after carefully checking many out for woodborers. Had to reject a few before finding one that looked OK (customs agreed thank goodness! I did spray with pea beau thoroughly in my hotel room before coming home just to be on the safe side).
Also found the painting I wanted of two Balinese dancers, in semi abstract and modern colours (purple/ gold/ blue/ pink/ yellow) similar to Butterflys that Id seen last year. Got it for 200,000r – its about 32 inches wide and 60 inches long – mind you is costing me $100 to have framed!!!! (the frame on it was magnificent – blue with gold detailing but impossible for me to take on as hand luggage or so I thought at the time).
Saw lots of quilts which fit into the flowered-theme variety (e.g. Jack daniels-soccer-kids cartoon character type) but none of the stripe done I had my heart set on. Last trip I paid about $24 AUS for a bright floral quilt from here.
Other items brought:
Sarongs –1X plain pink, 1 X lime green with same coloured embroidery detail 20,000R
Black sarong with gold detail – 20,000R
T shirt (classy Bali pic not the usual beachy stuff) 30,000R
Self embroidered top – coffee coloured – 50,000R (would later pay 25,000 down in Kuta for similar but even so it was still a good price!)
Found my way back to Nyoman and the car in one piece, happy with my goods and having honed my bargaining skills up a tad. (Or having made another donation to the Balinese economy if you prefer!)
Off to the elephant park where I faced a major hiccup- I had left my visa card and MasterCard back at TS in the safety deposit box which effectively meant I had enough rupiah on me to enter the park but not to have a elephant ride. Here Nyoman came to my aid and loaned me the extra rupiah (I was so embarrassed but grateful to him for helping me out before he then went off to wait for me outside the park).
For the entry to park and ride, the cost was 420,000R (roughly $65 AUS). The park was extremely clean and tidy, and is owned by an Australian company. The restaurant offered a buffet or you could order a meal (I ordered a gado-gado and bintang, about 20,000R). When entering the Reception area, there was information about these sumatrian elephants and a skeleton of a bull elephant – my only criticism is that this information would have been most useful if printed onto a brochure which visitors could take home with them (especially if you had kids with you). These elephants have been 'imported' into Bali and used to work in wood clearing back in Sumatra; they are not as large as the African elephants that I have seen in zoos in Australia. I went off on my ride, for about ½ hour through countryside surrounding the elephant park, which is shared with the local villagers who grow small crops amongst the crops grown fro the elephants. What I liked about this place too was that your guide stopped and took photos with your camera at several places along the way (without charging you extra!). Saw on elephant without his guide in the swimming hole near the resturaunt, being very playful and obviously being 'naughty' as his guide was telling him to get out of the water and he wasn't complying!
At WWR later in the trip, the organizers take photos but you had to pay 35,000R for one picture, admittedly on their camera, and about 400,000r for a DVD of the day.
You can stay as long as you like at the elephant park, and they do have several times a day when the elephants do painting and show off some of their skills but after about 2 hours I headed back to my hotel.
On the way back, Nyoman stopped at a local supermarket and we brought mangosteens and mangos for me to take back to my room. (About 10,000R for 1 kilo mangosteens and 2 mangos from memory).
Back at TS it was time for a swim again and another chat with other guests around the pool (met a lady escaping from the heat in India by visiting Bali) and I stayed in at TS for dinner (another nasi campur and bintang – 30,000R - $6 AUS)
The WA families wandered over and invited me back to their villa for drinks- they had two rooms (super deluxe and duplex rooms). One was 1 bedroom upstairs with a huge spa bath downstairs with fantastic pebbled walls, whilst the other I think was 2 bedrooms. We sat downstairs on the tiled cushioned verandah and chatted for a few hours with our duty free drinks, before bedtime. They were all off the next day to do WWR, which made me rethink some of my plans to include rafting .
Next Posting
Day 4 – Ubud Cremation
Day 5- 7 Lovinia ( via Munduk- Banjar Hot Springs- Buddhist Monastry)
Day 8 – 9 Amed – Lipah – Dancing Dragon Cottages
Day 10 – 11 Candi Dasa – Kupu Bali Bungalows – Hidden beach Pandangbai
Day 12- 14 – Village ceremony Boog-Boog Kris Kris Dance-Sanur – Swastika Cottages – S & S BTF drinks/ dinner
Day 15-21 – Kuta ( Villerisi after being bumped from Camplung Mas; WWR; Nusa Lembongan day trip; shopping – shopping – shopping – Geneva – Double 6)