Hi all,
Below are my notes to travel in Bali which I think are particularly useful to 1st timers :). I've travelled there twice now with my wife over the last 2 years, staying at least a week each time, so hopefully I've learnt stuff which can now be helpful to you :)
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Below is my quick guide to all things in Bali - some pretty useful stuff, particularly if you want to save some time!
WARNING: After you have cleared the Immigration of the International Airport on arrival in Bali, you will normally be approached by 'Porters' to assist you with your bags. Unless you are willing to part with up to Rp50,000 (!!!) for a short 1 minute walk to your transport, do NOT engage their services, or let them take your bags. They are not the official airport porters and they do not tell you that there will be fees up front. But after sending your bags to the transport waiting for you, they will not accept anything less than Rp50,000 but will instead create a scene, making it an unpleasant start of the trip for you. So be alert, to prevent you from a lousy start to your holiday! J
SHOPPING
It's good to take the phone numbers 'cos there's no house numbers for most of these places. Without the phone, the drivers if not familiar with the above, will just make circles looking for the shop.
In addition, remember that BARGAIN is a key exercise in shopping here. If you want a good bargain, be prepared to scout around for the items you want and take some time to negotiate (yes, that can mean 1/2 hour after you have figured out what you want to buy!). Don't be shy about asking ridiculous prices as the shops typically prey on tourist's discomfort in quoting very low prices. For e.g., for many galleries, you might want to start bargaining with 20% of (NOT 'off'!) the quoted price. After visiting many many galleries for batik, carvings and paintings, the shops below offers the best deals i.e., they don't start off at super-rip-off prices. Still, you should be looking at a discount off quoted prices between 30-60%.
1. Batik Painting
Go to Popiler II @ Tohjati - Tel: (0361) 463597
2. Wood Carving
Go to Nyoman Gallery @ Batuan - Tel: (0361) 294817 [Nyoman (nice guy), the boss, will definitely remember me! You can quote my name to try to squeeze a better deal!]
3. Paintings
There are a lot of Galleries in Bali. All galleries are expensive. But if you really interested, pay a visit to: Wayan Aryana Lukisan, Batuan Tel: (0361) 297641
There's this artist you'll see in all Galleries - Ketut Soki, he pioneered one of the "new" Balinese painting style (colourful and cartoonish, typically paddy field scenes). Priced at a premium 'cos he's a pioneer but is clearly over-rated and due to simplicity of painting, supply is huge. He even has a certificate of authentication for his paintings.
Otherwise, just buy all your paintings from the Sukawati Arts & Crafts market. Quality is good and the price is at least less than 1/2 that of the galleries! Estimated price - 2.5ft x 3ft acrylic painting @ Rp100-200k (~S$20-40). Many of the artists here are selling direct and their works are often sold in the galleries at higher prices under a different "name"!
One of the shops that I've purchased from regularly is 'Hitha Lee' @ the Sukawati Market. The artist's name is Kt. Semestawan – I've got the tendency to try to purchase the entire shop! Tel: (361) 299180
4. Knick-knacks and souvenirs
Buy ALL your other souvenirs there (Sukawati) as well! Don't bother with any of the markets next to tourist attractions! E.g., a handwoven handbag my cost Rp70k after bargaining at touristy places (opening price Rp150) will cost only Rp25k in the market. T-shirts ALL cost Rp10k, and you get the most variety at the market. If you like shopping for these stuff and paintings, you can easily spend more than 1/2 a day at this market (we ran out of time and $$$)!
Alternatively, the Ubud central market offers decent varieties but at slightly higher prices.
FOOD
a. If you are staying in Ubud, arrange for a Balinese Feast @ Ketut's Place in Ubud (5 min east of City centre). They usually hold it on Friday - Sunday nights. Need to book in advance - look for Ketut @ 975304 (This is Suci Inn's phone number, where he works during the days)
b. And if you are there (Ubud) on Thursday evening, try the excellent Tuna satay (only available Thu) & BBQ Pork Ribs @ Naughty Nuri's directly opposite Neka Musuem.
c. Other places to eat in Ubud: Cafe Lotus (decent local & western food, excellent setting) - costs about Rp130k for 2.
d. Mosaic (mostly excellent reviews on the Internet, but both Ting & I didn't like it at all - only for fusion food fine dining fans - expect to pay Rp500k for 2)
e. If not anything, then for the experience - Babi Guling at Ibu Oka's smacked right in the centre of Ubud (next to the townhall). Cheap, but if you do like Bali's famous dish, then this is the place to have it. MUST TRY for lunch.
f. Didn't go there, but "Ku De Ta" @ Kuta is apparently a great fine dining place recommended by friends who has paid a visit to the place. Pricey! Expect to pay Rp500k for 2 (excluding alcohol). Me & Ting no enjoy fine dining...
g. The 2nd famous local dish is their roasted duck - Bebek Begedil (there's a restaurant by the same name in Ubud, 2 branches). I liked it. Ting thought it was OK. It's the dry & crispy type.
VIEW
Try lunch or tea @ Cahaya Dewata Hotel (north Ubud). The food is crappy (probably cost you about Rp100k for 2), but the view is spectacular. The hotel knows that most come for just the view, so it's ok NOT to order the most expensive item on the menu J
TEMPLES
If there is only time for 2 temples, then go to:
(1) Ulu Watu (right at the southern most tip of Bali)
(2) Tanah Lot
Both are excellent for sunsets, Tanah Lot is probably the more famous of the 2, but we liked Uluwatu better.
The 'Mother' of all Temples in Bali is Pura Besakih. It's actually a fairly beautiful collection of temples, rather than a temple on its own. If you are planning a trip to the Central Mountains, it's definitely well worth a visit.
However, unlike the friendly smiles and services you get in most of the rest of Bali, the folks in the area have become more like pests. They have created local rules (real or ficticious – there's no way of telling, as a tourist) such as it is 'compulsory' to have a local tour guide take you around the temple – and of course, attempt to charge you an arm or a leg for it. And they will seriously pester you till you decide to either leave the place or give in. After making a HUGE fuss, we agreed to take a guide (one who was trying to 'resolve' the dispte) for Rp15,000. In addition, to avoid being ripped off, bring a sarong with you for the visit – for unlike many other friendlier temples which will loan you the sarong, the locals will fleece you for it.
DANCES
There are plenty of dances in Bali. So if you have time for only 2, watch the following by
priority:
(1) Kecak
(2) Barong
Ask the driver for the more "aggressive" dance theatres locations. The "lembek" (soft) ones are not very nice.
MUSUEM
If you are interested in the History of balinese art (a good place to start before you start buying the paintings) - visit the Neka Musuem, a little bit north of Ubud town centre. Walkable from Waka Padma.
HOTELS (ESP. UBUD)
If you are looking for something good but much cheaper the 4 Seasons J, try Waka Padma @ Penestanan, Ubud. Details @ http://www.wakapadma.com. They are located off the Ubud town centre but they provide free shuttle services to all parts of the town. Expect to pay between US$80-100 per night (previous offer was stay 4 nights, pay for 3). Tel: +62 361 975719; Email: wakapadma@wakaexperience.com
Alternatively, try Waka Di Ume which is older and more popular which possesses a more scenic paddy field setting. Rates are about the same. But it's a little bit further from Ubud town centre compared to Waka Padma.
If you have the luxury of time and want a quiet, beautiful and serene place to stay, try Waka Gangga in Yeh Gangga (further west of Tanah Lot, 1 hour journey from Kuta) Beautiful setting of 11 villas smacked in the middle of paddy fields facing the Indian Ocean. The food at the house-restaurant's excellent too! Tel: +62 361 416256 Visit their website @ http://www.wakagangga.com (the pictures on their site is as pretty as it looks in real!)
DRIVER SERVICES
If you are using Wayan Lena (Tel: +62 81 23961705), tell him I say hi! He'll definitely remember us. Note: He doesn't drive the most luxurious of vans (air-con's no good on very hot days) - so if you want a better vehicle, you might want to call him in advance to arrange and maybe pay a bit more. You can also email him @ wayantours@hotmail.com. However, he speaks decent English and is extremely friendly, honest and willing to help you enjoy Bali a little bit more.
You can bargain a bit, but it's about Rp250,000 per day. If it's just 1/2 day, can ask for less. But in the end I probably paid him the full amt 'cos I paid him extras for ultra long days + some tips.
Alternatively, the following drivers have had pretty decent reviews from the various forums on the internet:
1. Nyoman - welovelucie@yahoo.com / +62 81 24651099
2. Wayan Suartana - +62 8123943271
SPAS
You can afford the spas! For the pocket damaging experience, the Chedi's Mandara Spa in North Ubud (Pendekatan) or a more reasonable but equally (if not better ambience), Maya Ubud (check out http://www.mayaubud.com for the spa packages - starts from Rp380k per hr)
OK! That's the Tony & Ting quick guide to Bali. Will update whenever we have anything else to add!
Enjoy yourselves!
Tony