More just back stuff -- about touring


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Posted by Tammy on Saturday, 31. October 1998 at 22:32 Bali Time:


I'm posting this again, because it seems no one saw it when I buried it as an addendum. We recently returned, and this is our second trip report ...

First off, in reponse to those who responded to my last post -- for the person going to the Sheraton because she has kids -- there IS a Ritz kids program, and we did see a few kids there (also a children's section at one of the two pools), so I wouldn't rule out the Ritz.

For the person who wanted to know about diving costs ... Spice Dive was charging $40 US for two dives, including all equipment. Deal, eh (well, compared to other countries). I had no problems with their equipment.

As for what there is to do near Lovina ... well, Lovina itself has some shops and cafes, and of course the Beach. There are hawkers there, as on most Bali beaches. There is fairly good snorkelling -- just pay one of the many fisherman there 15,000 rupiah per person (about $2.20 US) and they take you out in a boat and give you snorkel gear if necessary. There is the dawn dolphin watch that I've heard others rave about -- about 80% of the time there are dolphins, we just had to be in the 20%!

Lovina is centrally located on the north coast, about 1 and half hours from Menjangan and two hours from Tulanben (the wreck dive).

Near to Lovina are: the Buddist Temple (different from the many Hindu temples); the Banjer Hot Springs (sacred bathing pools -- you CAN swim there). There is also Git Git waterfall, a very photogenic spot (hawkers on the way in -- but go early and many aren't open yet, anyway they aren't the most agressive -- I got a lovely high quality batik robe there for my hubby for 70,000 rupiah, and two good quality sarongs for 50,000 rupiah each, and two amazing masks for a total of 40,000 rupiah for the pair. Be warned these are AFTER bargaining prices -- prices start out at least double). Singarajah, the former capital of Bali and a fairly big town, is near Lovina -- good if you need an Apotek (phamacy) as I did for meds to treat my sakit tengorokan -- sore throat -- and piluk -- that's a cold, which I think caught on the flight over.

While I'm thinking about flights -- JAL was great, better than Canadian or American airlines. On time, great service, lots of food (some of it Japanese style, but hey, be adventerous).

Farther away from Lovina but accessible in a one day excursion are Besakih, the mother temple; Lake Batur and the volcano Mt. Batur (be warned -- Batur has the nastiest hawkers I met anywhere in Bali -- but it's still worth seeing); other temples like Beji and Ulun Damu (the latter is gorgeous -- beside a lake, with gardens -- VERY photogenic. Also Candi Dasa (pronounced CHandi -- they put an 'h' after 'c's in Indonesian -- a little nicer than Lovina as a town, I think, but I was only there for one lunch and didn't see the beach. I heard there is good snorkellingnear Candi Dasa from a Dutch couple we met.
There is the Bali Aga village -- Tubanen, I think -- these are the original Balinese and a little like the Amish -- they can only marry within their village, they cling to even older traditions -- but their village now looks like a souvenir fair near the entrance, where they have all kinds of handicrafts for sale. They do ikat and double ikat weaving there, and I bought some ikat for $30 US -- don't know if I got ripped off, but it was cheaper than at an ikat "factory" in Singaraja where they wanted 500,000 rupiah or $100 Canadian and wouldn't bargain.

We also visited a gamelan instrument maker at his home factory -- blacksmiths in the back forging brass gongs, bamboo instruments in the front. I bought a set of 5 bamboo gamelin intruments -- they go five notes up a scale, just shake them to play -- for $20 US, and wrapped in t-shirts they made it home and still work. I think my nieces may like them, but first us adults will play them at a Balinese-themed party I'm making soon. I bought some gamelin music tapes in Lovina at a place called Tip Top for about 15,000 rupiah each as well.

While staying in the south at the Ritz we went to the Bali Bird Park -- much nicer than I'd expected, sure it's a zoo but there is an aviary and some nice landscaping, and the restaurant and souviner shop are good and not outrageously priced. We also went to Ubed -- looked like a LOT of nice handicrafts and some restaurants, for several streets over -- at least from a quick look around. Stopped in Celuk and bought some silver -- remember to haggle, they WILL play Let's Make a Deal and reduce prices a LOT if you buy several pieces.

We saw the monkey forest near Ubed -- be sure to go down the steps and see the lower temple too -- there are wonderful komodo dragon statues and interesting, sometimes sexual monkey statues. Tip re feeding the live monkeys -- THROW the bananas to them, do not try to get them to grab from your hands. It's safer -- we didn't get scratched that way. You'll still be surrounded -- have one person throw bananas and the other snap pics or videos.

We also saw Taneh Lot temple -- a little overated, but still different from the other temples because of it's seaside location. You can't get close to much of it, but it's impressive even from a distance.

I'm sure I'm leaving more out, but ask me questions and I'll try to answer. Did I mention that I only saw one serious begger on the trip -- a boy who banged on the van for money and wouldn't quit even when the driver gave him a coin? Upsetting -- but we have way more beggers of the "spare some change" variety right here in Toronto. They don't realize how many more opportunities they have than the Balinese, who have 70% unemployment!

I think Bali is great, but guess it is going to change a lot as more people get TVs. Right now there are a couple of TVs per village, but they havne't taken over the culture. I hope they never do! There are a couple of Macdonalds and KFCs and the like in the Kuta area, but thank God the rest of the country is free of that staff. Okay, enough editorial ... the stuff on beggers and fast food is just my opinion, but if you've read this far, perhaps you know what I mean.

Last thing ... I felt sorry for all the bones sticking out skinny dogs and cats. No, I didn't feed them -- I told myself I should try to spread my efforts among the people -- but still it was pretty sad. I also heard that most of the deer on Menjangan (deer island) have died of lack of water in the last few years. We did see two deer before crossing over with the boat.

That's all folks. Now that we've tasted Bali, the Caribbean will never be the same (better beaches, but less to do and generally not as nice people).



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