Posted by Tammy on Friday, 30. October 1998 at 10:56 Bali Time:
We just returned from two weeks on Bali. Unlike many people here on the forum, we did not spend any time in Kuta, nor were we looking for the cheapest of everything ... more the best for our needs. We were thrilled with our trip. If you like fine dining, diving and cultural experiences, read on .
We spent the first three days at the Ritz in Jimbaren. Perhaps the most beautiful hotel I have ever seen -- and I've seen many five star hotels in the Caribbean. Exquisite gardens with lotus ponds, waterfalls and koi. Two gorgeous pools, one with stone dragons spouting water, the other with a very tastefully done (not tacky looking) water slide. If you liked Audrey Hepburn's "Gardens of the World" program, you'll like this place. Service was great. Food was good but expensive. The lavish full buffet breakfast was about 350,000 rupiah for two. It included smoked salmon, many exotic fresh fruits and juices, fresh pastries, lots of eggs, bacon, etc. -- even macademia nuts -- but that's over $40.00 U.S. There was a "cold dishes only" version we found more than adequate for 250,000 rupiah. The room was well worth the $118 U.S. compared to what I've gotten in other countries in that price range. Yes, I know all this isn't cheap for Bali -- I did say this report wouldn't be for everyone. However, on the whole I would say the quality of the room, staff and grounds were a bargain compared to what one pays in the U.S., England or many parts of the Caribbean -- for less.
After 3 nights at the Ritz it was time to go north. We had booked Damai Villas in Lovina, and it was a great choice. Damai is like a smaller version of the Ritz in beauty -- lovely reflecting pool, fine landscaping, and amazing staff. I cannot overemphasize how great the staff were! We became quite friendly with them -- they were genuninely glad to tell us about their country, help us with our attempts to learn Indonesian (we spent some time studying with the Easy Language CD-ROM before departing), and they wanted to learn about Canada, our home. The rooms had fresh flowers and fruit to welcome us, then a small floral "offering" on the bed every night. Nice teak furniture. And the views! We could see over rice patties and fields all the way to the sea in two directions, plus the mountains of Java in the distance. Best of all, if you appreciate gourmet dining, was the food. There was a four course dinner every night for $35 US a person. To save money (and avoid gaining too much weight) we often ordered one dinner and split it between the two of us -- the portions weren't huge but with so many courses that worked for us. But again, I have spent more money for worse food in many countries. We also had cheap Indonesian meals (say 70,000 rupiah for two) at lunch every day. We drank only bottled water and NEITHER of us got sick at all.
As well as enjoying these two hotels, we spent 3 days diving (Menjangan twice, Tulamben once) with Spice Dive -- good operation. We did five full days of touring with a car and driver, two in the south and three in the north. We went on two snorkel trips at Lovina and one dolphin trip -- that was the biggest disapointment for us -- not one dolphin that morning!
I got used to haggling and by the end wasn't getting too ripped off. Biggest mistake I made at the beginning -- thinking that posted prices at a Batik place meant anything. We paid WAY two much for a couple of admittedly nice shirts (about $22 US each -- but later in the trip we got good batik of equal quality for 70.000 rupiah -- less than $9.)
I only shopped for local stuff. I do not care to buy designer label stuff in ANY country -- that's not my thing. Besides, I prefer the money to go to local craftspeople, so bought where the stuff was being made as much as possible.
I could go on and on but we just got back last night and I am still jet lagged. I'll have to do another post about all the great things we saw -- temples, rice paddies, volcanoes and more. For now, let me just say it's well worth it to go north -- we found it MUCH nicer than the south in terms of natural beauty, and the people were even better in the north. As for the hawkers -- if you've ever been in a Jamaican market, say at Dunn's River Falls, you'll think the worst Bali hawker is mild by comparison. We found them aggressive sometimes, just eager others, but never hostile.
Salamat tinggal (goodbye, at least for now!). I hope you have as great a vacation as we did.