Posted by Geoff on Wednesday, 7. October 1998 at 07:10 Bali Time:
A few more notable things about our trip.
Firstly it is 18 years since I was last in Bali and 20 years since I lived there (hung out) for 3 months. Whilst I knew that I was in for a big change it was still a shock. Kuta is possibly 100 times more developed with shops, market stalls, hotels, warungs and restaraunts occupying every inch of space. I remembered a sparse village with lots of trees. Forget it. On the upside there were lots of people, plenty of food, shopping, drinking and late nights.
I made a mistake in booking a two week holiday with accomodation pre paid for the first three and last two nights thinking that I could move about and make a few deals. You will find it very difficult to do as good a deal in Bali as you can from home through a travel agent. Also it was very busy with no vacancies in the popular spots. See my previous message about Vivan and Kristian.
The dreaded Bali belly. It hit on the second day and stayed with me for a week after I got home. Lomotil helps, so does a local sulphur tablet called SC's, but it sure takes the edge off the fun. Be prepared for it as you cannot control everything you came into contact with right down to dishwashing. If you try to live as a European it will cost you heaps and you'll miss out on a lot. Good Warungs are happy to let you see the kitchen and bottled spring water (or beer) is everywhere.
For a quick guide to realistic local prices and to pick up some essentials like water, mossie repellant and chocolate go to the big Mata Hari supermarket in Kuta Central (near Maccas and opposite the classy and duty free shops)
You can afford to take an air conditioned taxi almost anywhere. South to North Kuta was about 2400Rp. I used to pay double with a 5000Rp note (US$0.45c). There are many air con mini buses hanging around and looking for a job around $20 all day.
Don't believe all you here about prices from recent travellers. A few months back the US$ bought almost double the Rp it does now. Also local prices have risen dramatically. The government has removed export bans and subsidies on a large range of provisions, all with the exception of rice and even that has gone up threefold in six months. They may be cheap but they still gotta eat, I was a fair dinkum millionaire amongst them. Some things I was firm about pricing, others I paid what I was happy to pay and if the Indo that earned the tip got a windfall then it was good for both of us.
Two very good contacts I made.
Vivan (Mrs). Professional tour guide, very good English and a nice lady. Has air con mini bus and driver. She will give a minimum 50% discount on all the standard tours plus more for a group or on a quiet day. Ring 0812 3902410.
Kristian (Mr). Taxi driver cum tour and activity organiser. Very good English and turned out to be fair dinkum although I was wary at first. Notably he organised half price jet ski and paragliding (still a rip off by local standards but the best you'll get) and white water rafting day trip for US$27 (advertised at US$65). Notably the day we went rafting it had been raining for 24 hours and the river was declared unsafe (they do not take chances). We were given a 3 hour return mini bus trip through some great villages and farms, a free drink and a 100% hassle free total refund of our money.
The hawkers are omnipresent and worse than mosquitos. Hat, lighter, massage, temporary tattoo, t-shirt, watch, rockets, ciggaretes, hashish (don't), carvings, shade umbrella, transport, taxi, braid your hair, yes just look, clean your nails . .......... I hear that the hawkers will be shut down at the end of the year and HORROR the beach bars (about 40 from Kuta to Legian) were to close at the end of September (now). The hawkers OK, they can really fuck up a relaxing time, but the beach bars are great places to meet and drink in the afternoon. BIG TIP - Take your stubby holder, they're as rare as rocking horse shit in Bali and it's bloody hot.
People get different things out of Bali. Man and wife with 2 kids, dumb & young etc. will do it differently.
So to summarise, dirty, smelly, hot, crook guts, nightlife, good hotels (Barong), nightlife, cold beer, clove ciggarettes, two weeks off work, lots and lots of friendly people mostly happy to meet and chat, flight delays both ways, 20Kg of shopping including the classic ebony Bali fisherman, a few photos.
Geoff.
20:46 6/10/98